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Hey fellas... been a while...
Problem today while towing...
I was in some hilly areas but nothing too unusual for Virginia's Shenandoah. .. was pulling an unloaded trailer and experienced a significant loss of power and overheating. Engine started getting hot (almost to red) and then the transmission came up in temp. Made it to a rest area and all cooled down within 2 to 5 mins... but the strange thing about the power uphill is that it is happening at slow speeds as well... boost seems normal.
Recently did the injector cups, so the thermostat is new (motorcraft), coolant is new, and put new o-rings on injectors.
First time for me having the's issues.
check for boost leaks, the clamp on my turbo outlet to the spider backed off 2 turns and my EGT went up almost 300 degrees.
also with it that hot your fan should have been howling, if not time for a fan clutch.
and for the trans you were probably at a speed and rpm combination that had the torque converter unlocked which causes a lot of heat in the trans,and with no air flow no cooling
We can't yet rule out a cup seal fail, particularly after a fresh cup job.
The fan clutch is self-regulating. If the temps soared and the fan roared - that's another issue. However... if you are unsure if the fan clutch is engaging - it's not. An engaged fan is about as subtle as a fart in a space suit - you're gunna know it's there.
The fan clutch is self-regulating. If the temps soared and the fan roared - that's another issue. However... if you are unsure if the fan clutch is engaging - it's not. An engaged fan is about as subtle as a fart in a space suit - you're gunna know it's there.
Listen to this advice. He made me buy a new clutch for my clutch fan. He was exactly right!
For the price (about $65 NAPA last minute), it dropped my EOT immediately and now I KNOW when it kicks on. No doubt when you hear it- and when it shuts off
There is a plug in the back side of the fuel bowl (two actually and you want the one towards the passenger's side, it's post filter). You'll need some sort of special fitting for the bowl, it's something like 04 ORB (I can't recall). Then you can mount a gauge to it.
For a gauge, you'll need a -4ORB to whatever your gauge has, normally 1/8" NPT. The gauge should be at least 100psi.
Most gauges stocked at parts stores are for gassers and don't go nearly that high.
If you use the top left port in the pic above, you can use a small straight adapter. If you use the bottom right, it's more difficult. I used a right angle adapter and installed with the fuel bowl out of the truck. RiffRaff Diesel and DieselOrings have these adapters.
You can (and should if you can) install a permanent pressure SENSOR in at least one of these ports and feed into a gauge in your cab. Fuel pressure is CRITICAL in these trucks, so many of us add fuel pressure gauges of all different types.
Looking at that pic makes me wonder about how critical it is to use that more difficult plug. The only difference is the filter, which can't (well...when it's clean) reduce fuel pressure by that much. And we are looking to see that fuel is flowing and the pump is pumping well enough. Additionally, if fuel flow comes into question the first thing we do is check the filter anyway, right?
Looking at that pic makes me wonder about how critical it is to use that more difficult plug. The only difference is the filter, which can't (well...when it's clean) reduce fuel pressure by that much. And we are looking to see that fuel is flowing and the pump is pumping well enough. Additionally, if fuel flow comes into question the first thing we do is check the filter anyway, right?
You're right about that. In a perfect world, "delivered fuel to the engine, post filter" would be ideal, but a sensor in the incoming side is much easier and can reduce the likelihood of a pressure problem being unseen down by about 90%, with 10% being post-filter.
I am installing a second one and will monitor the post-filter one regularly, with the ability to flip a switch and check the other one. A big difference will indicate it is time to change a filter, or even alert to a clogged filter.
For troubleshooting purposes, if I had the bowl out, I'd install the 90deg below and a sensor on it. If you're installing just one, may as well do the "hard" one, the other will be accessible with the bowl installed if you ever need to....OR if you want to check your sensor with a temporary manual gauge (like I SHOULD be doing right now, lol)
09-24-2016, 04:14 PM
