Removing Cheesy 2 inch Front Rubber "Level"(2wd)
#1
Removing Cheesy 2 inch Front Rubber "Level"(2wd)
S, I was told on another thread that if I jack up the front end high enough, I will be able to remove the levels and get back to stock height. I need more direction than that.. So, how about a step by step and I could do the pictures when I follow the steps, and we'll be ready for the next clueless guy?
In the immortal words of J Wellington Wimpy, "I'll gladly pay you Tuesday for a "hamburger" today."
In the immortal words of J Wellington Wimpy, "I'll gladly pay you Tuesday for a "hamburger" today."
#2
From what I've seen, it should be fairly simple. Remove the retaining plate that holds the spring in the pocket. Possibly unbolt the shocks on the top or the bottom so they don't bottom out. Brake lines are very important to keep an eye on, as you could potentially stretch the soft lines to failure, and that would be a mess and a PITA.
Jack up the vehicle and support with jack stands on the frame rails
Front suspension should droop enough to allow the spacers to be wiggled out of place
Have a helper or two keep an eye on the springs while you lower the vehicle off the jack stands and make sure the springs seat properly in their respective pockets
Reinstall retaining plates and reattach shock ends
I have no pictures, this is purely going off experience on a variety of other 4x4's that use coil suspension. Some vehicles require the trackbar or draglink to be disconnected as it can bind and prevent full suspension droop. You shouldn't have the trackbar issue, however the steering linkage may cause some issues.
Razzi just installed new springs and a spacer on a 2wd, I'll tag him and see if he has some input @Toreador_Diesel
Jack up the vehicle and support with jack stands on the frame rails
Front suspension should droop enough to allow the spacers to be wiggled out of place
Have a helper or two keep an eye on the springs while you lower the vehicle off the jack stands and make sure the springs seat properly in their respective pockets
Reinstall retaining plates and reattach shock ends
I have no pictures, this is purely going off experience on a variety of other 4x4's that use coil suspension. Some vehicles require the trackbar or draglink to be disconnected as it can bind and prevent full suspension droop. You shouldn't have the trackbar issue, however the steering linkage may cause some issues.
Razzi just installed new springs and a spacer on a 2wd, I'll tag him and see if he has some input @Toreador_Diesel
#3
I haven't tried to remove spacers but I have swapped out my front springs for lift springs.
Jack up the truck and place stands under the frame behind the radius arm mount. Remove the wheel. Place the jack under the radius arm as close to the knuckle as you can and use the jack to support the weight of the wheel. Remove the shock from the lower shock mount. Slowly lower the radius arm... this will unload the spring completely and you can remove the spacer. You will need to remove the upper or lower springs mount.
Jack up the truck and place stands under the frame behind the radius arm mount. Remove the wheel. Place the jack under the radius arm as close to the knuckle as you can and use the jack to support the weight of the wheel. Remove the shock from the lower shock mount. Slowly lower the radius arm... this will unload the spring completely and you can remove the spacer. You will need to remove the upper or lower springs mount.
#4
The retainer nut can be a PITA to get off if the threads are corroded or full of grime.
Inspect threads and clean with a wire brush as needed, a good does of marvels penetrating oil helps as well.
The nut itself is easiest to remove if you go on through the top with a long 1/2 drive extension.
Inspect threads and clean with a wire brush as needed, a good does of marvels penetrating oil helps as well.
The nut itself is easiest to remove if you go on through the top with a long 1/2 drive extension.
#5
The retainer nut can be a PITA to get off if the threads are corroded or full of grime.
Inspect threads and clean with a wire brush as needed, a good does of marvels penetrating oil helps as well.
The nut itself is easiest to remove if you go on through the top with a long 1/2 drive extension.
Inspect threads and clean with a wire brush as needed, a good does of marvels penetrating oil helps as well.
The nut itself is easiest to remove if you go on through the top with a long 1/2 drive extension.
PB Blaster goes a long way.
#6
I found an offset wrench of the right size and I slid it in between two of the coils and was able to remove and install without issues.
As was stated, lift up the front end a lot, I put a jack stands under the front crash bar. Then put a smaller floor jack under the lower control arm, removed the lower shock mount, then lowered the lower control arm until the spring was fully extended. Removed the top and bottom bolts, removed coil spring. Then reversed to install new spring.
As was stated, lift up the front end a lot, I put a jack stands under the front crash bar. Then put a smaller floor jack under the lower control arm, removed the lower shock mount, then lowered the lower control arm until the spring was fully extended. Removed the top and bottom bolts, removed coil spring. Then reversed to install new spring.
#7
It's pretty straight forward like the guys have stated, but I gotta ask, are you sure you want to do this? The front of these 4x2's sit low in the front without a spacer.
I put a billet aluminum spacer on my old F250 https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8492932 and it made the stance much better and more eye-appealing.
Stewart
I put a billet aluminum spacer on my old F250 https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8492932 and it made the stance much better and more eye-appealing.
Stewart
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#8
#9
I said it puts them at the end of their range of motion and adjustability.
Perhaps I didn't word the alignment issue well enough but it doesn't affect the tie rods. The tie rods adjust toe
Lifting the ford twin beam suspension with spacers requires you get the camber and caster part of your alignment reset. I mentioned their can be challenges to get them into spec. But that doesn't mean you need to remove them. Especially if your alignment is ok.
Check the ball joints for wear, check the alignment and if every thing is within spec and it handles ok then no worries.
The spring alignment is another matter and I pointed out a way for you to check and resolve that issue as well.
Remove them if that is what you want but I never suggested or at least didn't intend to suggest they needed removing.
#11
#12
#13
Ok, I finally will be able to do this all tomorrow morning.. I may do part this evening, but we're recording again this morning so we'll see later. One more question about the rear leaf spring on the drivers side. The brake line is in the wrong place and rubbing, but it seems easier to remove the spring and reroute, rather than taking off the brake line and redirecting, and then having to bleed. I'm thinking the procedure should be a bit like the front, except for being a leaf instead of a coil? I could take a pic tomorrow morning, but then I'd have to wait for the "instructions"!
#14