Hey y'all,

I'd like to introduce myself and my trucks. I have a 2013 F150 lariat 2wd with the 5.0 and a 1964 F100 with the 223-3spd.

Hoping to build the '64 with a sbf and auto trans later on. Goals right now are to get it running and driving so that I can start body work and assuring everything works on it.

Here are a few pictures of the '64 right now. Got it to turn over but won't start. I think I need to rebuild the carb and replace the fuel lines as they are probably gunked up from sitting for so long.







I will be looking for a new hood and bed if y'all know where I should look or who I should talk to. Hope to learn something about these trucks during the process and would appreciate any help and words of advice about the process. Thanks y'all.

 

DROT,
Looks like a solid find, my Friend, with LOTS of Patina!
I'd suggest before you start replacing body parts, make sure the drivetrain is salvageable.
Any idea as to how long it's been sitting since it last ran?
If it's been a year or more, I'd suggest you change the motor oil and filter first before trying to get it running. You don't want a bunch of rusty, sludge getting stirred up and pumped around inside the engine, to plug up oil galleries and lifters. Same goes for the coolant system. Flush out the coolant/radiator/heater core with straight water until it runs clear. I'd remove the fuel tank and give it a good flushing as well for the same reasons. Disconnect the fuel line at the carb and both sides of the fuel pump and blow compressed air through those open lines to purge the sludge out of each section of line BEFORE moving the sludge into the fuel pump or carb. Lastly, drain and change the rear end gear lube and transmission lube.

Once running but before you 'cause it to move', flush the brake lines at each wheel cylinder, ensuring it holds good pedal pressure before taking it out on the road. Check over the brake lights. Give a serious eye to the tires for cracks.

Good luck and keep us posted with your progress!

BarnieTrk

 

Shouldn't that be DROF? Was that a Freudian slip?

.

 

Hey DROF - Welcome to FTE.

Looks like a fun project.

One area I see that can be a bit of a concern is where the fenders and aprons (inner fenders) attach to one another. As the cancer gets started in that area it can eat both inner and outer. Since that looks a little suspect you might also look at your radiator core support down low. Sometimes they get the cancer going there, too. Roof rail gutters and cab roof seams can also be a spot where things get going in a bad direction if they are left to their own devices.

.

 

Yep. It should be DROF. Nothing Freudian about it...... just me making a mistake again. Opps!

BarnieTrk

 

Thanks for the replies y'all.

I did flush the radiator. I removed the gas tank as it was completely degraded inside.

The truck has put aside in '84 and recently(within the past 10 years) brought out to try and get it going again but failed.

The story was the original owner, father in law, attempted to perform a tune up and the truck wouldn't start afterwards so he just put it aside. His best friend tried to get it going but failed.

I found the cool to be bad, spark plug wires not completely installed(just had the boots on the plug and not the wire actually installed), and the distributor timed wrong. I rotated the crank to TDC and the rotor was pointed at spark plug wire #4. I corrected it so it was pointing to #1. BUT I still need to get the fuel right.

I will do like you said and blow out the lines. I think that would be helpful. I may just replace the entire lines though just for good measure and PM.

The brake lines are totally gone. The line going to the rear has been disconnected and there is no pressure or fluid in the pedal. All the lights work except the brake lights. The running lights work but not when the pedal is depressed. I assume that's because the switch that turns them on is a pressure switch on the MC??? Need help on that.

Also the truck has reverse lights? Was that common? I couldn't get them to come on but I think that's because I didn't understand the shift pattern of the 3spd column shift. :/ BUT an older gentleman at work straightened me out on that so I will check that when I get back to the truck this afternoon.

 

DROF,
I don't think reverse or backup lights were original equipment in '64 Slicks. What do the lights at the rear of the truck look like? Post a pic of them may 'shed some light' on that question.

Sounds like you'll want to replace all the brake lines, solid and flex lines; you may be best served by replacing each wheel cylinder as well.

BarnieTrk

 

Barnie,

I figured they weren't which isn't a big deal. I will clean up the wiring back there when I find a bed to replace it with.

Is it okay to run flex lines everywhere or do I need to run solid lines? Would now be a good time to do the disc brake conversion or should I stick with drums? Curious what y'all's opinions are on that matter.

DROF

 

No factory installed backup lamps were available until 1967.

There were no F series truck dealer installed backup lamps available for 1961/66's either.

I've seen some of these trucks with 1960/63 Falcon 2dr/4dr sedan backup lights which mounted flush on the rear body panel below the deck lid.

On Stylesides, they could be mounted below the tail lamps.

 

I'll post a pic later this afternoon but I just did a quick search and this is them. Looks like it was a GM product. :/

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/112081486483?vectorid=229466&lgeo=1&item=112081486483&rmvSB=true
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/311697584423?vectorid=229466&lgeo=1&item=311697584423&rmvSB=true

 

These are the reverse lights.





AND this is why the engine wouldn't start.



Original owner said he was performing a tune up and was adjusting the valves. I can only assume the valves were over-tightened from the evidence. Lifters still seem to be in good condition.

 

Those backup lamps are definitely GM, look like they're from 1954/56 Oldsmopiles.

 

Add tailgate to your list of body parts needed...wow!

.

 

Haha! Yeah this thing has got some rust issues. The entire bed will need to be replaced as the bed floor and inner bed skins are gone too.

 

Possible jumped timing chain putting a valve into a piston maybe ? Hence the bent push rod.