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Hey guys! i'm fixing to buy my first Powerstroke, as soon as my truck sells. My buddy has the 1997 7.3 SCLB 4x4 5spd i'm gonna buy hopefully in the next week or so. $4200 with new a/c, rebuilt front end, 37" military tires on 16.5" awe full rims doesn't sound that bad to me, even with 270,000 miles. only major problem with the truck is it need a new slave/clutch master cylinder/ fluid and all. Does that sound like a good deal to you guys??? ill do all the work myself since i work at a custom truck shop. It even has a ranch hand style front bumper.
The main reason i'm posting is to ask what i should look for before i buy this truck. Also what should i do as soon as i buy it ,other than the clutch situation, like maintenance stuff before i start driving it around all day. hopefully ill have enough extra cash afterwards to maintenance the engine and get it in good shape.
Thanks in advance guys!
That's a sweet deal for a manual 4x4. BEST clutch hydraulic solution is a complete pre-assembled pre-filled pre-bled master-line-slave kit. Installs in about 10 minutes and NO bleeding. Usually cheaper than the constituent parts, too.
Gotta be a replacement clutch with those miles. Find out if it has the original dual-mass flywheel or if it's been replaced with a single-mass.
Tires that big, most likely it's lifted. The TTB usu. doesn't play well with a lift. Mabye it's had a Dana 60 swapped in? Look under and check.
That's a sweet deal for a manual 4x4. BEST clutch hydraulic solution is a complete pre-assembled pre-filled pre-bled master-line-slave kit. Installs in about 10 minutes and NO bleeding. Usually cheaper than the constituent parts, too.
Gotta be a replacement clutch with those miles. Find out if it has the original dual-mass flywheel or if it's been replaced with a single-mass.
Tires that big, most likely it's lifted. The TTB usu. doesn't play well with a lift. Mabye it's had a Dana 60 swapped in? Look under and check.
Its a solid axle d60 that suposedly has been basically rebuilt. not sure about the flywheel to be honest.and yeah i agree ill probrably get the pre bled and pre assembled kit from napa. Thanks!
Originally Posted by knottyrope
4200 around here is a good deal if not rotted out
clutch can be fun to purge of air
replace all fluids once you get so you know whats been done
Yeah i was suprised to find out it takes 15quarts of oil and 27 quarts of antifreeze lol im used to small gas engines
yeah but me and my boss drove it around yesterday and it drove great but we found some rust underneath the chrome trim around the bottom so now i gotta get the price down some more . what is the general consensus about what type of oil are best for these engines, along with all other fluids....
So it's an F350? SCLB would have been a supercab, thus an F250.
Careful asking about oil. You get 10 of us in an oil discussion, you're liable to get 15 diffrent opinions . I've used Mobil 1, Rotella-T (dino), Rotella-T5 (blend) and Rotella-T6 (synth), and have had no problems with any of them. Just remember these PSDs use the lube oil to run the injectors at very high pressure, so get an oil rated for diesel, from a brand name, keep the level up and change it on time. Synth will last longer; I've gone 7000 miles on it, but you start to feel it around then (slow starts, etc).
Coolant - Make sure to maintain SCA (anti-cavitation) level. I've read that our generation of PSD shouldn't get ELC; the injector sleeves are not compatible. Options - old-school "green" coolant with SCA added, or Peak Fleet Charge, which is conventional "green" (although it's dyed pink) anti-freeze pre-charged with SCA.
So it's an F350? SCLB would have been a supercab, thus an F250.
Careful asking about oil. You get 10 of us in an oil discussion, you're liable to get 15 diffrent opinions . I've used Mobil 1, Rotella-T (dino), Rotella-T5 (blend) and Rotella-T6 (synth), and have had no problems with any of them. Just remember these PSDs use the lube oil to run the injectors at very high pressure, so get an oil rated for diesel, from a brand name, keep the level up and change it on time. Synth will last longer; I've gone 7000 miles on it, but you start to feel it around then (slow starts, etc).
Coolant - Make sure to maintain SCA (anti-cavitation) level. I've read that our generation of PSD shouldn't get ELC; the injector sleeves are not compatible. Options - old-school "green" coolant with SCA added, or Peak Fleet Charge, which is conventional "green" (although it's dyed pink) anti-freeze pre-charged with SCA.
My bad, i meant RCLB. And for the oil, i meant more like would just regular rotella 15w-40 conventional be alright? I live in south florida so idk what weight oil would work best and if sythetic is worth the extra money in the long term. The past owner used conventional 15w-40 rotella the whole time he owned the truck so.... And ok i will make sure to look for that when i get coolant. Thanks!!!
Is there anything else i should be looking for? While im changing fluids and filters im gonna do brakes, slave cylinder related items,and charge the ac system with that ac pro stuff, ive heard great things about that stuff. Then i have to recalibrate the speedometer. And have one tire patched.... Is there anything else i should go ahead and do while im doing all this?
09-19-2016, 07:46 AM
. what is the general consensus about what type of oil are best for these engines, along with all other fluids....
. I've used Mobil 1, Rotella-T (dino), Rotella-T5 (blend) and Rotella-T6 (synth), and have had no problems with any of them. Just remember these PSDs use the lube oil to run the injectors at very high pressure, so get an oil rated for diesel, from a brand name, keep the level up and change it on time. Synth will last longer; I've gone 7000 miles on it, but you start to feel it around then (slow starts, etc).