Hi All,

I normally hang out in the 57 to 60 F100 and larger forum but I have an FE question. I have a rebuilt 1976 360 that I am dropping in my '58 F100. It was covered in smog parts and had a 2 bbl. The heads are D2TEAA.

A friend is giving me a 4bbl intake part C2AE9425C that I will be using. My goal is to use all old parts as I am rat rodding it. From other posts, it appears the intake is from a 62 Galaxie 390.

I know it will set on the motor fine but am unsure if the ports are the same size? Also, I will be buying an engine gasket kit for the 76 360. Will the intake gaskets work on the intake?

Thanks

 

Very good question, but I can't personally answer it because I just don't know.

Bump.

 

Unless you get into medium and high riser or tunnel port, I think they are all the same.

FE Cylinder Head I.D. and Application Chart

 

Maybe yes and maybe no. I just looked at two FE 2bbl intakes from 1965 and 1969 and not truck intakes. The 65 was large port and the 69 was small port. Your D2T intake will definitely be a small port just like the D2T heads.

 

I know the early heads had larger intake ports , so I'd assume the intake was to match , which means you have a step going into head . a die grinder with burr will make quick fix of this just gasket match it .

 

It wont be a prefect port match but it will work, the port floor on the older intake is lower than the floor on the heads, the rest will match up pretty good.
There to much difference to try blending with a grinder and may hit a water jacket taking that much out of the head.
My 406 intake has a low floor and my heads have medium riser ports, not a good match for racing but it just a street cruising set up and still runs good, the three Holley 2 barrels have lots of cool factor. Not any people nowdays that have seen a tri par setup let alone one that runs and drives

 

I use to run a 406 tri-power set up, and the large ports matched exactly to the 428 CJ heads. I wish I could have kept this engine in the truck but being a daily driver it was killing me on fuel cost..

 

Did you put a smaller engine in, I've gotten some of my best fuel mileage with these setups as long as I controlled my right foot.
This is my third tri par setup.

 

The right foot was a contributing factor, plus it's a F250 with 4.10 gears. I put the original 352 back in which only had 50,000 miles on it and ran it for years until it reached 140,000 miles a couple of years ago and then rebuilt it into a 390. I had sold the tri-power years ago so the 390 has the 428 CJ heads and a single 4V now. It gets better mileage then the 352 2V.

 

If the donor intake is missing the thermostat housing they are not the same, they are bigger on the early 60's models.

 

So I've decided to scale back the plan a little and spend the money elsewhere. This motor has low miles on the engine and since it was in a Ca smog truck, all the smog was there, it has a "Reman" tag on it, and it ran super smooth without any lope, my first guess will be it has a stock cam and a 4 degree retarded timing chain set.

Since I am not going to be racing this and my daughter will be driving it to school (anyone know where I can get a 950 rpm governor?), there is no need to spend money on a cam. My plan now is to still use the '63 4V intake, a 600 cfm carb, ignition that came out of the truck, and long tube headers. Instead of swapping the cam, I'm going to, (after verifying if the cam timing and cam are stock) install a new timing chain set that I can set at 4 retarded, zero, and 4 advanced. I know it won't give me great gains but is worth the relatively low cost, especially since I have the motor stripped down to block and heads.

My question to those with experience with this, would you go 4 advanced or zero (straight up)?

 

Stock, for a driver, then keep it at zero.

 

Stick a double roller chain in and set it to zero.