puffs of white means unburned fuel or coolant, does it smell like diesel or sweet like coolant?


you could have a glowplug bad but that wont happen on a warm day unless you have an injector that needs shimming from being worn out. It retards the ignition and only cure is to shim or get a faster starter. you can shim them your self though

 

Definitely, with out a doubt, diesel haha. Runs rich at idle as well (idle is rough as stated in the original post).

Would an injector that needs shimmed still pass a CCT and Buzz?

 

White is either unburned fuel (overfueling, glow plug, or loss of compression) or water (head gasket, injector cup, cavitation, cracked head )....

 

Did you replace the CPS with an oem (Motorcraft or International)? I had almost the exact same problem and couldn't figure it out, I had already replaced the lift pump, cps, hpop, checked the icp etc... I was advised by Moose_Machine to swap to an oem cps and haven't had a problem since.

 

Check anti freeze for diesel ?

 

As far as I know, there is no such thing as "shimming" injectors.

 

Armature clearance can be shimmed back into spec.

 

Nope, autoparts store "Grey".

Are they really that bad? It had a grey one when I bought it, it was replaced basically right off the bat (before reading about the CPSes on these trucks), I warrantied it out the other day just for what I felt to be good measure. If you insist I will swap a known good one in its place. The symptoms do fit a bad CPS, how ever I thought surely out of the 3 greys that have been installed, one of them would be good off the shelf.



And to clarify on the white smoke situation, yes its unburnt diesel. I should've clarified that I knew this. Truck passed compression test (all in the high 3s).

In my opinion, something is telling injectors to pulse after TDC (causing the white smoke, and detonation ping). Does this fit the armature plate symptoms?

All injectors passed their tests, all injectors have new Orings. All injectors are "firing" when I manually unplug them (engine on, valve covers off).

 

In a new injector clearance between the armature plate and adapter housing of the
injector is 0.004” Poppet valve wear will reduce this clearance to zero over time. You can add a shim up to 0.002" to fix this issue, anything more, you need to get a new or rebuilt injector.

 

It is unlikely that both of the offbrand CPS are defective. From what I read the issue is with the inferior internals of the sensor. They have been known to be bad off of the shelf, I would think that it would be highly unlikely though for you to have two in a row that were defective though. Swapping in a Motorcraft has so far seemed to have solved my issue though.

 

That also retards timing when the poppet gets worn.

 

MAJOR UPDATE.

So i put some clear hose between the hardline coming from the tank and the inlet to the lift pump.

HOLY AIR BUBBLES! I had air, which I thought I had previous ruled out by running the truck on off a fuel jug with an independent line. I stopped at advanced auto, bought 16ft of 3/8 hose, ran it straight off the lift pump down the filler neck into the tank until it bottomed out. I have just shy of a full tank now so it shouldn't draw any air.

Drove the truck 4 miles home, the truck still have a roughish idle, still missed up top, but the idle was noticably quieter without a doubt.


How long does it take to work air out of the fuel side of the FI system? Should I keep driving it and to work the air out or?

 

Having air at the tank, you'll never "work the air out."

 

What does it do on the other tank? Have you checked the supply lines from the tanks to the selector valve?

 

I think you missed the part where I said I ran a brand new, independent hose straight off the lift pump and into the tank, where it is submerged constantly in fuel.

My question was- now that that is done, how long does it take to get rid of the bubbles that are further on in the fuel system from the original, leaking hose.