That's the goal! It's been a good truck and I'll probably end up owning it another 12 years, I hope to not have to dig back into the engine again unless its for more power.

4.10:1 would be more in line with what I do, and should the 3.55 set show signs of failure I'll rebuild with 4.10s, but the 8.8" has already had all bearings & axle shafts replaced with everything else looking fine so it might be while. I live at 7200' above sea level, and often tow/haul above 10,000', so it's down 20-30% of normal power just based on lower ambient air pressure. That's part of my reasoning for wanting a bump in compression. We have 85 octane here as our lower octane just due to the lower final cylinder pressures.

 

I overlooked roller rocker to valve cover clearance. Doing some reading, it does not sound like RR fit with stock covers. Tall covers might not clear the upper intake manifold. Intake spacer would be needed. Things get expensive fast.

Was thinking 1.7 roller tip rockers might be the fix, but I can't find them in pedestal mount, only stud. Can't find stamped steel 1.7 ratio rockers either. More research needed I suppose.

Edit: after reading many worthless Mustang related info...found this: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...rockers-2.html
Where two guys said they fit Crane roller rockers under the stock Ford truck valve covers, no doubled gaskets and no baffle bashing. That's what I was hoping for.

 

I'm actually bolting these on today:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-44746-16

 

That's the set I'd like. I was going to order them but they're out of stock at Summit. Full roller rockers. Can you fit the stock stamped steel truck valve cover over them?

 

The Crane roller rockers will fit fine under stock valve covers.

Check Jegs as well.

 

Thank you, that's good to know.

Both Summit and Jegs say the rockers ship direct from Crane. Summit lists them backordered until 12-30-16 and Jegs says the "this item is expected to ship in 24 hours from the manufacturer". Think I'll call before getting myself into needing to cancel orders and such. Lane Automotive is listed as a dealer, they too don't have any.

Crane's website comes up blank when looking up this rocker set too. Did they discontinue it or something?

What about Scorpion's in a 1.72:1 ratio? Just a touch more money but they sound like quality units. They handle much high spring rates, so I fear they'd be a lot bulkier than the Crane's.

 

Might be worth the wait for summit. They're $38 less than when I bought them & it took a month. They have a mfg date from this year so I think they might just build them a batch at a time.

Used to be a dozen mfg's of pedestal style sbf rockers.

 

I'd like to get this together & installed by mid October, so I may have to buy the Crane's but relabeled as Ford Motorsports (i.e. price hiked). November in WY is bitterly cold, and then it's snowmobile season and I need the truck.

 

Crane is the original manufacturer for Ford. They're designed & built specifically for them hence the engineering #.

 

Yep I'm aware of that. I can find them in stock, sold as the Ford Motorsport rockers, but at a premium. Here they are at Summit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/f...view/make/ford . Same rocker as the Crane branded, but boxed by Ford & price hiked.

 

When I ordered 8 replacement Crane roller rockers (1.7) from Jegs, they were $15 a piece. Thats $240 for the set. Less than what Summit wants @ $300 is high.

Those pictured on Summit are exactly what I have.

 

Summit only has 9 individual Crane rockers in stock at $13.91 each. I'll call them tomorrow and see what they know. I'd prefer the kit anyway, with the pedestal shims & channel. I don't need them ASAP I just can't wait until December.

Unrelated question: is starter replacement with long tubes a pain the neck? I was thinking I'd replace it as preventative maintenance just because I would think it's a tight fit with long tubes. Or does it primarily depend on which LT's you have? I have a set of the Chinese stainless LT's under my bench for this engine build.

Edit: Found Toplait's thread on the headers I have (Speedy Daddy or whatever they're calling them--they're the sub $200 SS headers from China on Ebay). He said that yes, it would be wise to replace the starter as the header will need to come off to do so.

 

If you have burrs already, you misewell port the heads. You don't even need to touch the runners if you don't want to, but the valve bowls are a must. Cut down the shrouding below the valve seat, blend the valve guide boss...careful not to nick the seats. The more you port a gt40 head without redesigning, the better.

You can mill the heads for more compression also, which I would go for. IIRC I milled .050 off of my gt40ps and waited to port my intake until I had the heads bolted down, to account for any misalignment that the milling caused.

 

I am about to do this same build, roller cam with 1.7 roller rockers, GT40 heads, long tube headers(pacesetters) considering intake porting now that I read this thread but not for sure yet. I am building this for trailer towing only so high RPM is out of the question. All I care about is low end torque, so I am considering advancing the cam 4 degrees to get more low end torque. My question is what do you guys think of this option.

 

PloyBoy, my understanding is this combo is well liked for low end torque, but if you leave the stock 351w intakes in place it will be bottlenecked there for flow. Take a look at this thread (yea, I know it's long, but lot's of good info) https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-upgrades.html

I can't comment on the cam advance, I understand the idea but have no idea of the actual outcome.