OT home buying
#256
The one's I have been using have screws, but I think the push-in connections are spring tightened. Actually, I know they are because there is a small hole that you can push a small screw driver into to release the wire.
I've been using these: Leviton 15 Amp Tamper-Resistant Duplex Outlet, White-R62-T5320-00W - The Home Depot
I've been using these: Leviton 15 Amp Tamper-Resistant Duplex Outlet, White-R62-T5320-00W - The Home Depot
#257
#258
He's talking about "tailing out" the receptacles. Basically you put short "tails" on the receptacles and then wire nut the connections together in the box. That way you have all the load on down the line carried by the wire nuts and not by the components of the receptacle. It's the best practice (and code) for commercial installations, but it's generally not required for residential installations. It's a good idea, but it does take longer and really makes the (normal residential) boxes tight with all those connections in them. If that's the way you decide to go, and it is a new box, I suggest you oversize the boxes.
And yeah, I didn't do the TR receptacles or arc fault breakers when I rewired my place either. They're more trouble than they're worth, IMO, though they are required by code, so you have to use them if you're getting an inspection. As the homeowner, I don't have to get an inspection on self-performed work. I did get the service inspected when I put that in, but that was only because the power company wanted to see the inspection certificate before they would re-set the meter.
And yeah, I didn't do the TR receptacles or arc fault breakers when I rewired my place either. They're more trouble than they're worth, IMO, though they are required by code, so you have to use them if you're getting an inspection. As the homeowner, I don't have to get an inspection on self-performed work. I did get the service inspected when I put that in, but that was only because the power company wanted to see the inspection certificate before they would re-set the meter.
#260
He's talking about "tailing out" the receptacles. Basically you put short "tails" on the receptacles and then wire nut the connections together in the box. That way you have all the load on down the line carried by the wire nuts and not by the components of the receptacle. It's the best practice (and code) for commercial installations, but it's generally not required for residential installations. It's a good idea, but it does take longer and really makes the (normal residential) boxes tight with all those connections in them. If that's the way you decide to go, and it is a new box, I suggest you oversize the boxes.
And yeah, I didn't do the TR receptacles or arc fault breakers when I rewired my place either. They're more trouble than they're worth, IMO, though they are required by code, so you have to use them if you're getting an inspection. As the homeowner, I don't have to get an inspection on self-performed work. I did get the service inspected when I put that in, but that was only because the power company wanted to see the inspection certificate before they would re-set the meter.
And yeah, I didn't do the TR receptacles or arc fault breakers when I rewired my place either. They're more trouble than they're worth, IMO, though they are required by code, so you have to use them if you're getting an inspection. As the homeowner, I don't have to get an inspection on self-performed work. I did get the service inspected when I put that in, but that was only because the power company wanted to see the inspection certificate before they would re-set the meter.
#261
He's talking about "tailing out" the receptacles. Basically you put short "tails" on the receptacles and then wire nut the connections together in the box. That way you have all the load on down the line carried by the wire nuts and not by the components of the receptacle. It's the best practice (and code) for commercial installations, but it's generally not required for residential installations. It's a good idea, but it does take longer and really makes the (normal residential) boxes tight with all those connections in them. If that's the way you decide to go, and it is a new box, I suggest you oversize the boxes.
And yeah, I didn't do the TR receptacles or arc fault breakers when I rewired my place either. They're more trouble than they're worth, IMO, though they are required by code, so you have to use them if you're getting an inspection. As the homeowner, I don't have to get an inspection on self-performed work. I did get the service inspected when I put that in, but that was only because the power company wanted to see the inspection certificate before they would re-set the meter.
And yeah, I didn't do the TR receptacles or arc fault breakers when I rewired my place either. They're more trouble than they're worth, IMO, though they are required by code, so you have to use them if you're getting an inspection. As the homeowner, I don't have to get an inspection on self-performed work. I did get the service inspected when I put that in, but that was only because the power company wanted to see the inspection certificate before they would re-set the meter.
Shhhhhhh, we don't mention meter cans and inspections in the same breath around here....
Thanks for explaining that. Wouldn't that add to the cube value? So depending on the amount/size of wires, you'd need an oversized box to stay in the allotted cube value anyway.
I'd much rather deal with the plastic push in for a few years than TR receptacles for life. But that's just me.
#262
You are correct , sir. Bigger boxes are generally needed and that can be a real pain if it's a remodel where you're reusing the old boxes!
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