Issue with bogging down, dying and no response to gas pedal.
#1
Issue with bogging down, dying and no response to gas pedal.
Recently I have encountered another issue. Truck started up fine, at first stop light and truck was bogging down, RPMs jumping up and down slightly and sounded like it was going to die. Light turned green, gave it gas, no response. Gas pedal was dead. After restarting the truck I was able to give it some gas until I came to the next stop light and this repeated. Eventually a few moments later I got a check engine light. Drove home this way, seemed to be working fine as long as I was actually driving and not stopped.
I do have a basic $15 monitor fellow members suggested that I got off Amazon. All the parameters looked ok except for the battery, that jumped up and down in volts as the engine sounded like it was bogging down then eventually died. New batteries put in approx 2 months ago. The check engine light is showing "P0299 turbo/supercharger underboost"
I have attached an image of this check engine light according to my monitor.
Any ideas??
I do have a basic $15 monitor fellow members suggested that I got off Amazon. All the parameters looked ok except for the battery, that jumped up and down in volts as the engine sounded like it was bogging down then eventually died. New batteries put in approx 2 months ago. The check engine light is showing "P0299 turbo/supercharger underboost"
I have attached an image of this check engine light according to my monitor.
Any ideas??
#5
Ok I finally got around to doing this. Took a look under the hood and everything looks to be normal to me. I took off the map nipple and cleaned the hole with a wire hanger, it didn't appear to be clogged at all. reassembled it and started the truck. The truck starts fine but sounds like its idling really low. I gave it some gas till the rpms hit 2-3 and after i let off the gas it starts to bog down, almost killing the engine a couple times. It appears the problem has not been fixed, check engine light still on.
Also checked the hoses (assembled, did not disassemble) it does not appear to be cracked or any leaks that I can see.
Anymore ideas?
Also checked the hoses (assembled, did not disassemble) it does not appear to be cracked or any leaks that I can see.
Anymore ideas?
#7
Also truck idles really hard, definitely isn't idling right, even took a min more to start.
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#8
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Salt Lake City, utah
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That all depends on how well you work with tools. The job is not that bad the hard points would be the downpipe v-band clamp and the up pipe clamp. The turbo is heavy and a little akward to remove from the truck and reinstall can be a pain. You will need a turbo reinstall kit it will have orings an oil feed gasket and bolts to tighten it down with. Figure a day to do it.
Are there anymore codes?
#10
That all depends on how well you work with tools. The job is not that bad the hard points would be the downpipe v-band clamp and the up pipe clamp. The turbo is heavy and a little akward to remove from the truck and reinstall can be a pain. You will need a turbo reinstall kit it will have orings an oil feed gasket and bolts to tighten it down with. Figure a day to do it.
Are there anymore codes?
Are there anymore codes?
I'm not sure what you mean. It sounds very low when it starts. The idle sounds pretty rough.
#11
The reinstall kit has orings for the oil supply tube and oil drain tube. Also includes new mounting bolts and a paper gasket for the oil supply tube. It's only like $13, you can reinstall the turbo without it, but if the drain tube leaks the turbo will have to come out again to replace the oring. Not worth the risk to me. i dread installing the turbo because it can be a real pain to get the Y-pipe lined up (although last time i got lucky and it went right into place)
I just cleaned my turbo for the 1st time recently, it's not a big deal. Reassembly can be a little tricky but overall an easy job.
Regarding the turbo sounds at startup, my turbo was cycling exactly as described but when i opened it up a few vanes didn't have full movement, and had to pry the unison ring off. Good amount of carbon and corrosion in there, not sure how it was able to function but it did. Good luck
Oh one more thing i ran into a while back, the wires to the vgt solenoid from being exposed to oil from the cac tube above it had lost insulation and was causing the vgt solenoid to not sweep the vanes intermittently. I installed a new pigtail and it made a difference. Never had a code, might be worth taking a look at
I just cleaned my turbo for the 1st time recently, it's not a big deal. Reassembly can be a little tricky but overall an easy job.
Regarding the turbo sounds at startup, my turbo was cycling exactly as described but when i opened it up a few vanes didn't have full movement, and had to pry the unison ring off. Good amount of carbon and corrosion in there, not sure how it was able to function but it did. Good luck
Oh one more thing i ran into a while back, the wires to the vgt solenoid from being exposed to oil from the cac tube above it had lost insulation and was causing the vgt solenoid to not sweep the vanes intermittently. I installed a new pigtail and it made a difference. Never had a code, might be worth taking a look at
#12
The reinstall kit has orings for the oil supply tube and oil drain tube. Also includes new mounting bolts and a paper gasket for the oil supply tube. It's only like $13, you can reinstall the turbo without it, but if the drain tube leaks the turbo will have to come out again to replace the oring. Not worth the risk to me. i dread installing the turbo because it can be a real pain to get the Y-pipe lined up (although last time i got lucky and it went right into place)
I just cleaned my turbo for the 1st time recently, it's not a big deal. Reassembly can be a little tricky but overall an easy job.
Regarding the turbo sounds at startup, my turbo was cycling exactly as described but when i opened it up a few vanes didn't have full movement, and had to pry the unison ring off. Good amount of carbon and corrosion in there, not sure how it was able to function but it did. Good luck
Oh one more thing i ran into a while back, the wires to the vgt solenoid from being exposed to oil from the cac tube above it had lost insulation and was causing the vgt solenoid to not sweep the vanes intermittently. I installed a new pigtail and it made a difference. Never had a code, might be worth taking a look at
I just cleaned my turbo for the 1st time recently, it's not a big deal. Reassembly can be a little tricky but overall an easy job.
Regarding the turbo sounds at startup, my turbo was cycling exactly as described but when i opened it up a few vanes didn't have full movement, and had to pry the unison ring off. Good amount of carbon and corrosion in there, not sure how it was able to function but it did. Good luck
Oh one more thing i ran into a while back, the wires to the vgt solenoid from being exposed to oil from the cac tube above it had lost insulation and was causing the vgt solenoid to not sweep the vanes intermittently. I installed a new pigtail and it made a difference. Never had a code, might be worth taking a look at
#13
Update: I attempted to take my turbo out and clean it and it turned out to be a harder task then I thought, got about halfway then gave up. I had it towed once again to the diesel shop of my choice. They charged me $450 to clean the turbo and put the truck back together. They said the truck now works after cleaning the turbo, guess that indeed was the issue. Thought I would update incase anyone else comes across this issue.
#15
Update: I attempted to take my turbo out and clean it and it turned out to be a harder task then I thought, got about halfway then gave up. I had it towed once again to the diesel shop of my choice. They charged me $450 to clean the turbo and put the truck back together. They said the truck now works after cleaning the turbo, guess that indeed was the issue. Thought I would update incase anyone else comes across this issue.
Just went through this with a customer vehicle...
2006 F350 that we took apart, resealed, and put back together. Roadtesting, it wouldn't boost for crap which we contributed to the old turbo with a blown turbine seal filling the exhaust with oil residue. I drive the **** out of it and the smoke finally goes away, but it still won't boost right, not even on SRLX.
We pull the turbo off, split the turbo and find some serious carbon buildup on the vgt "finger" that moves the vanes. We completely clean it, the vanes, and unison rings, and now it runs like a raped ape.