In the middle of changing the DS ball joints on my 06 CCLB F250. Got the Raybestos pro-grade ball joints pressed in. I'm about to re-install the knuckle and I looked at the destructions and said WTF???

The instructions say for a 2WD, do pretty much what I've seen everywhere, lower to 30, top to 85-110, then lower to 120-130.

For 4WD, which is what I have, it says lower to 70, upper to 100. Dat's all folks...

What's the consensus? Follow the destructions and go 70/100 or do what I've seen all over, chiltons, etc, 30/100/130?

 

@Yahiko may have a manual with proper specifications.

 

If you can wait till tonight I can look that up for you. But I think that
the multi step torque will keep you from having memory steering issues.
You also want to move the knuckle between torque steps for the same reason.


Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder

 

Lower BJ is larger and needs more torque than the upper as it is larger. Should be around 150 ft lb final torque on the lower if memory is right.

 

I torqued them to what the instructions said, hopefully that will not turn out to be a mistake. Have to put the new steering box in before I road test it, hopefully over the weekend. Thanks for the replies guys!

 

Example........I had mine changed out by a "mechanic"?? that said he has done a bunch. I told him about reading the torque sequence is very important, he blew it off and said not to worry. When I got the truck back and took it for a drive down the highway it was all over the place, steering felt very light and down right scary. We got into it and after threatening to sue the guy he gave me my money back.

Anyway I took it to a GOOD shop and their front end guy said it IS very important how you torque the ball joints and in what sequence, drove like a dream after they got through with it.

 

Both the RWD and the 4WD refer the same set of instructions in the manual.

Her is the info to replace the ball joints on a 4WD and install the knuckle back
into the truck.

BTW this is for a 2006 F-series.



Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder

 

Thanks Sean! Wish I could find something on raybestos since that is the brand of the balljoints I bought. I'll have to drive the truck and see how it is, hoping I don't have to take it all apart again. I guess I could tighten the lower some more but I don't have a wrench big enough and can't get a socket on it without removing the hub and axle again.

 

Were the new ball joints the smooth wall type or where they
more like the problem solvers with the splines?



Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder

 

If you mean the part of the ball joint where it gets pressed into the knuckle, they are definitely splined as opposed to smooth.

 

Yes that is what I was referring to.
When using that type you can never go back to the smooth type.

Anyway, You can always re-torque the nuts if you want to pull
all that hardware out of the way. Do you have any memory steering
issues showing up?

If not you may be ok.


Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder

 

Got everything back together this morning, then installed a reman Cardone steering box. What a PITA.... Anyway, took it out for a drive, does not appear to be any return to center issues... In fact, it feels like someone added power steering to a truck that didn't have any before, talk about 1-finger turns... I'll briefly get it up to highway speeds tomorrow, I only have to go about 2 miles on the highway. Took it for a rural drive and I'm hoping the wandering issue is also resolved.