Okay so on my way to work yesterday morning coasting down to a stop the check engine light came on and then the truck started to run like ****. I had the cps go bad about a month ago and I replaced it, fixed the problem. I thought it went out already because it's doing the same thing but I got a new one today and swapped them out and it didn't changed anything. My dad has a 7.3 just like mine so I swapped his sensor out and no change. But when I put the one I just bought out of my truck and into his, his ran fine. My truck is running very rough, shaking the whole truck. It doesn't want to move very much, it sounds like it's firing on half the cylinders or something. Sounds like it's loping. Sometimes it will stay running, sometimes it will just die, but starts back up. The pigtail appears to be okay visually. Any help is greatly appreciated I need to get my truck back up and running.

 

It sounds to me like you have some burned pins/melted connectors on the valve cover gasket. The IDM can shut one bank down to protect itself when it senses a short in the wiring to the injectors.

 

Is there an easy way to check that? Would that be the connectors on the outside or inside the valve cover? Inside I'm guessing

 

It depends, sometimes you can see the melted connectors on the outside of the valve cover, sometime it is the under valve cover wiring. There are 2 connector to each valve cover gasket. Unplug each one and inspect it. If one is melted, it is pretty obvious.

 

And if the 4 connectors on top are all good then I need to pull the covers and check underneath? Would one bank not have power to some of the connectors if this is the problem? Just wondering if I could check with a test light or a multi meter

 

This is correct. When I have had this problem, it was the outer connecter. Unplugging one connector at a time with the engine running, and listening to the engine will tell you what bank is affected. If one bank is shut down, unplugging one connector from the good bank will probably make the engine stall, while unplugging one from the bad side will not make the engine run any different.

 

Okay thank you very much. I will have to check those connectors and try that when I get home tomorrow.

 

Get the code(s), if you want to avoid a lot of expensive guesswork.

 

I limped it up to O'Reilly's and had tried getting it scanned yesterday but the scanner came up with no codes for some reason.

 

Generic / FLAPS scanners do not communicate with our trucks. You need a device with Ford Enhanced capabilities.

 

I figured as much. So with that being said I'm not sure how to get the codes because I don't have access to any other scanners I don't think

 

Buy one for and an android app for 20 bucks




https://www.amazon.com/Vgate-Bluetoo...rds=vgate+OBD2

Torque Pro
https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...g.prowl.torque
Use the communication in the profile
SAE J1850-PWM


https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...ch.CarGaugePro
people like it cause it will pull codes but i have no bought it yet


Some OLD PCM's have to be flashed before you can pull codes

 

Unplugged the drivers side harness and nothing changed while running so I removed the drivers side valve cover and the connectors under the cover appeared to be plugged in. And also all the pins look fine on the connectors?

 

 

Leftmost terminal (GP) on connector in first pic appears to have some heat damage on the connector body. Did you disconnect the harnesses from the gaskets on the inside and check all those connectors/terminals?