Does anyone know where to find, or have a substitute for, the two neoprene or viton seals that seal the inlet and outlet tubes for the fuel filter housing on a 6.9/7.3? I'm having no luck.

 

Substitute: Get 1/4 NPT to 3/8 hose barb nipples and totally remove the hard lines. The inlet line down to the fuel(transfer) pump can be cut a couple of inches from the pump using a tubing cutter, and the 3/8 hose slid over it and clamped in place.
On the output side, you could either do the same thing a couple of inches from the IP, or buy a couple of adapters and eliminate the entire hard line. I did the latter and used these parts:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SAQ5KY...ing=UTF8&psc=1

I was able to use this setup quite nicely, and as an added benefit, with a slight bit of sanding on the back corners of the brass parts I have been able to remove the IP /with the fuel line connected/(without removing the IP gear). A *lot* less mess if you do that sort of thing.

 

Thanks for the reply. I like the way you did it best, less chance of leaks. And as far as removing the IP, I hope it is never an issue

Again thanks

 

Another idea - when you are in there messing with the fuel lines, pick up a primer bulb: https://www.amazon.com/Hongwin-Prime.../dp/B0191SNIKU
Insert it inline before the fuel filter, after the transfer pump.
It does two things:
1. if you run out of fuel, you can re-prime the system before wasting your battery cranking.
2. It acts as a check valve, preventing fuel drain-back if there are any leaks in the system. Really helps with starts if the truck has been sitting for a while.

 

I have had air intrusion for the past few months which i could not find until this started leaking fuel. Got disgusted w/it and put in an electric pump, problem solved.

 

Until your electric pump fails hard, leaving you on the side of the road.
I know that the better ones are less likely to do this, but the cheap "mr gasket" style pumps are very prone to this. And the IP won't generally suck through the electrics.

 

My wallet thought it wasn't cheap, $90+, besides, I am still running thru the lift punp so they should both have to fail.

 

I have an e-pump,it's a great mod. Mine is solo, i.e. the lift pump does not function,and is bypassed as the e-pump will fill the crankcase if the diaphragm in the lift pump fails.