Is it leaking around the seam of the lower canister and mount OR is it leaking from one of the lines?

Also, it is beyond me why anyone would NOT put a filter back in. Especially since they can be had for 12 bucks and comes with an oring. Utilizing the stock bypass will help filter the ATF before it's returned to the pan.
It's not like you can have too much filtration.

 

Yes I know.....didn't have one available when I did the fluid swap. Will be putting one in. Seems to be around the seam.

Ohhh. I bet I both buggered to oring and tightened it too much.

 

Like the fuel and oil filter caps, they all seal by the o-ring compression side by side loading and not by high torque. The torque values for all of these are low and I usually just tighten until the caps just touch the housing.

But it's easy to nick or twist an o-ring which does compromise the seal.

 

I guarantee I got it too tight (don't ask how I know this)

 

uhhh, you didn't just use the rattle gun on the loosening side of the job...?

 

The spec is 10 to 15 lb-ft, or 120 to 180 lb-in. I can get the external housing that tight by hand, just like an old school metal oil filter. Verified by an lb-in torque wrench.

The first time I installed all of these caps and the canister I used my lb-in torque wrench, then used a durable marking pen to mark both the mating parts with a line. Since you are always installing the same caps at the same location, and the sealing element is an o-ring, they will always torque up to the same point. Checked everything on the second installs about a dozen years ago and good to go ever since.

This is what I have right now but there other versions by a few companies.

McMaster 2862T61

Edit, just found one we had at work.

https://www.grainger.com/product/SUP...R-Marker-1UH90

Edit 2, found one on eBay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUPER-MET-AL...3&var=&vxp=mtr

 

Ummmm. I deleted that email
Let's say hi pathetically a rattle gun turned way down could possibly been around at the time......maybe......