TA - Do you think every Camper Special had the brake light relay? I was told it was part of the mythical trailer towing package on mine. My Merc also had the transistorized ignition which used a ceramic ballast resistor - no pink resistor wire to the coil, but a dark blue one - and a "T" stamped on the engine tag to indicate that equipment. Also the "blink marker" momentary switch I have mentioned before.
Eric

 

Bear with me here while I try to digest all this.

Are you saying the 4 pin plug might be back in the rear of the truck?

EDIT: I went out to look. Not a good idea for my back, as getting on the creeper was easier than getting off it.

On the driver side frame near the back, I have 2 each 2-pin connectors, but I can't find a 4-pin anywhere in the back or near the master cylinder. I guess it's not a Camper Special.

The truck has receiver hitches in the back and the front. A jury-rigged connector is hung with baling wire near the rear hitch. From what I'm learning here, if that was a factory plug, it would likely be running to a 4 pin connector somewhere. I don't understand why there is a relay in the lighting circuit for a Camper Special.

Can anyone tell me why it has a receiver hitch in the front?

 

I don't think they all got one, no. I'm not sure why some would get the relay and others would not. But, the relay would need to plug into something and it looks like there were some alternate wiring harnesses. I know my intermediate harness that I show a picture of above looks very much factory, but could be dealer installed or something to do with my truck being a special order, assuming above and beyond the custom color paint. I wish old Max had an invoice but he didn't.

If you have the MPC the relay is also called out under base number 13482. Again it refers to

65/67 F100/F350 - with Camper Coach or Trailer Coach.

So many questions - so little time.

.

 

The plug is near the master cylinder under the hood on my truck. Obviously it was not used on all Camper Specials. Read this post from ND. He says it was only dealer installed if you read it closely. Could be. I wonder what would make a dealer install it on one Camper Special but not another, in these first years? Mysteries.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post9367577

.

 

Thanks TA. Where can I get the MPC?
Eric

 

I've been trying to figure out why a dealer would need to put a relay in the truck stop light circuit, or why Ford put them in T-birds with sequential t/s. But I don't know how those sequential lights work anyway. Still, why on the trucks? The lights are 12 volts and draw hardly any current. What did the relay power in a Camper Special?

Thanks for the old link. I've learned a lot about what was original on Ford trucks from Bill (ND). I know I have a whole world more to learn on this new truck.

My wiring diagram should be here soon. Then I hope to sort out all the "extra" wires run every which way in my truck. All I really want to do is make everything work first. I have headlights, taillights, turn signals, emergency flasher. Don't know about brights, as the switch is stomped in and stuck. No horn, no wipers (no rain in CA) no washer, no radio. Heck, I don't even know where the fuse panel is yet. Maybe I should also order an Owners Manual...

Anyway, I have ordered the 3-volume Shop Manual, the HiPo Parts CD, a few miscellaneous parts from LMC, which are probably all Chinese. I can't lock or unlock the drivers door with a key, so I have to lock from the inside and slide out the right. I've been doing that for 5 years in my F4. So the door/ignition key/lock set is ordered along with the hi-beam switch.

When the PO installed the newer model "bolt-right-in" power steering, he didn't shorten the steering shaft, so the wheel sticks out from the column about an inch. The horn will never work like that. Anyone have recommendations on how to shorten the shaft correctly? Should I start a new thread?

Thanks for all your help guys. I wondered if the crowd here would be as cool as the 48 -56 forum crowd. Now I know you are. This simple introductory thread already has about 50 posts in it.

 

Many of the campers of the era had stop/turn lights that operated simultaneously with the pickup lights. Apparently Ford thought the extra current draw warranted a relay.
Eric

 

Thank you. That explains it.

 

This is a 65, so never had power steering as an option. I found in this thread:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-65-f100.html

that the length difference between the P/S and non-P/S steering shaft is 1.3". Anyone know where I might find the shorter P/S shaft C6TZ-3524-M .. Steering Shaft ~ 34 5/16" long? Or is it possible to shorten this longer non-P/S shaft?

 

Are you installing a Bendix gear? If so, I wonder why because it was not available in '65 and it is expensive and troublesome compared to the commonly-swapped Ford gear of late '69-up. If you are using a Bendix, you will find adequate adjustment at the dash hanger. You do not need a ps column. However, if you are using the later gear your column must be shortened. It is not too complicated, especially with a floor-shift column like yours.
Eric

 

It already has the P/S unit from a newer (I don't know what year) Ford truck, according to the PO. I am unfamiliar with P/S units, so I don't know what it is. But I think you've answered my question. The shaft needs to be shortened. Should I be able to disconnect it from the steering box, remove the wheel and pull it out through the top? Or is there more to it than that?

Can I cut an inch out of it and re-weld it, or is this something for a drive shaft shop to do?

 

An inch seems like a very big error by the original installer. Is all well at the rag joint? If so, measure everything accurately, remove the column and get a steering shop to fix it. It will (should) not be expensive. If it is you are at the wrong shop or I am wrong. If it is the latter, I apologize in advance.
Eric

 

Thanks Eric.

I measured it this morning, it's 7/8" too long. I think I'm going to wait to do anything on this until I get the Shop Manuals and Parts CD so I have references.

Between the rag joint and the steering shaft there's a shaft maybe 6 inches long. I wonder if I could just shorten that piece and make everything work.

 

Here's a pic of the rag joint and the shaft above it.

Is it possible to remove those parts and shorten the shaft on the rag joint by an inch to correct my problem of the wheel being 7/8" away from the steering column? Would that pull the steering wheel down? Maybe it's p/n 3524 in this diagram?

EDIT: Oh, I see now the whole shaft is labeled 3524. Oh well.

 

The postman just delivered these!