hey gang. last time I ran into trouble I came in here and it really helped out. I seem to come to another bump in the road...

first off my truck is

2004
automatic
88,000 miles
2wd

when I bought the truck it had a very small oil leak that would drip out of the bell housing between the housing and the inspection pan. it would leave a quarter (25cents) sized stain on the ground and would only drip for 10 minutes or so after I shut it off. in 3000 miles it would be down 1/2 quart of oil

well 3 weeks ago I stopped and noticed a HUGE stain now. I checked the oil and was 1 quart low. I filled it then I drove 90 miles the final week before parking and was down another 1/2 quart

I am figuring the rear main seal is gone. I did some research and it seems these are common to go in the 3.0?

I was looking for some advice, on what seal is the best to get? should I get the seal right from the dealer? or do u think I will run into the same problem and go with a after market?

I also learned that the crank shafts can get a groove in them and it's good to put a new "speedy seal" where can I get one of those?

also for some strange reason I take the tranny out and the rear main is good ( I seriously doubt it) is there anything else that could be leaking that I should check when I have the tranny out?

do u guys also know if I can remove the tranny with the factory exhaust still in place? it looks like it can squeeze just by it?

any advice is greatly appreciated, as always, thank you for your time!

 

Before you go diving in too far, check your crankcase ventilation system to make sure it's working properly.

I can't speak to the seals on the 3.0, as the rear main on my 3.0 Aerostar is only moist, but on my Honda, I went mostly OEM and they weren't much more expensive than aftermarket. I used a Silver Seal sleeve on the crank and all has been well for about 35k miles. I liked the design better than some of the other sleeves out there. My assessment is not based on scientific analysis of any kind. I just liked the fact that it didn't have a flange on it and I didn't have to worry about driving it on too far. Some people will say all you have to do is rough up the rear main with some emory cloth. I haven't tried that and can't attest to its effectiveness.

If it's not the rear main, it could be the torque converter seal. In that case, if you've been good about changing tranny fluid, then the fluid that's leaking will be red.

 

thanks for getting back to me. it is engine oil for sure, I've checked my trannt fuild from day one thinking that was the leak

but once the engine oil was low I knew it was engine oil drilling out the bell housing. in 90 miles I will lose 1/2 quart now

another friend told me to check the PVC system too? I took the oil cap off, removed the tube which I believe is the pcv valve on the intake and duct taped the tube closed, along with duct tapping the intake hole, I then placed my hand on the oil fill neck and started the truck

I could feel suction on my hand, I don't have a vacuum gauge but my friend said hold it there long enough to hear the seals start to chirp

I could hear the front chirping but not the back

how do you recommend checking the Pcv system? is there a picture of the pcv system on the 3.0 so I know what to look for?

 

got some parts today. got a redi-sleeve, and a steel rear main seal. I've never done a steel one before.. tomorrow the dealership should have a OEM one

is the OEM rubber or steel? i feel more comfortable with the OEM one... whats everyones thoughts?

 

Whoaa! Hold up. Have you checked the top of the block, right in front of where the bell housing bolts up? The oil pressure sending unit is mounted there, right near where the distributor was originally mounted, and now the CPS mounts on newer.
The sending unit has a bakelite portion held in place by the edge of the metal part of the sending unit. If the joint seeps, you'll get oil down the backside of the block, seeping into the bell housing, and dripping and drooling.
They are less than $10, and take about 5 minutes to replace.
You should NOT have a rear main seal going at 88k. I have 249k on my old Vulcan and it still does not leak from the rear main. If yours leaks, it is an anomaly.
In addition you should not need any sort of sleeve at 88k. If you do end up replacing the rear main seal, after removing the old one, take a look at the sealing surface on the crankshaft. If it has a groove, you have two options I would consider. A sleeve, or positioning the new seal so its lip does not ride in the same groove. Any other position would be on 'virgin' crankshaft metal, and should seal fine. Drive the seal further or less into the bore, and it will ride in a different spot. Compare the old seal to the new, and measure from the metal edge inward to get the 'lip' position, and compare. If they are a perfect match, leave the seal 'out' a smidge, instead of driving it totally flush.
If it is for sure the seal leaking, also make sure the PCV system is working as crankcase pressure can force oil out past the seals, and will do so at the 'weakest' link. Fix the rear main, and the front seal will leak, or the rocker arm gaskets or ???
tom

 

Tom thank you so much for your advice. I worked on the truck Sunday, I didn't do much though. I first sprayed the whole underside with degreaser, let it sit and then used some break clean to spray it all clean. I now have a completely new looking understand of the truck

What I am about to say please don't take me as a idiot.... But while under there I noticed the oil up high above the oil pan and above the starter... I grabbed the oil filter and it was 1/2 turn if not 3/4 turn loose....

I think the oil filter got loose and was the Reason for all the extra oil... I cleaned that area as well, tomorrow I plan on doing a oil change ( I'm still 1200 miles before I'm due) but figured I'd do it now and get the high mileage stuff in there working.

What's funny though, is this isn't the first time I got a small dip, the truck always had a small drip the size of a quarter (25cents) it was just recent that there was a huge puddle... Well not huge but much larger then a Quaker under the truck, and I've lost all that oil... So even with the filter tight I expect to still have a small drip, we will see. In all honesty as long as it stays a size of a quarter I don't mind, I usually would lose 1 quart every 3000 miles with that small drip.

It was just this large leak was coating the whole under side of the truck and the exhaust made it smell horribly...

Once I'm done changing the oil I'm going to check that oil pressure sender. See if that sucker is the problem.

As for rear mains what a head ach in finding the parts.... I ordered 4 sets of seals and sleeves from advance, every time they come 2 different sizes, either the sleeve is too small for the seal, or the seal is too small for the sleeve... I ended up getting the factory one from ford they used my VIN to get the exact one

I was going to order the silver sleeve or what every the company is called for the rear main. But I'm going to check the oil sender first, should I get a brand new sender? Or pull out the factory one and put some Teflon on the threads?

If I need a new sender should I got back to ford or go aftermarket?

I can't thank you enough for taking your time and replying. I'm going to experiment once I have some time to work on it and report back with the problem

What the shame of these things are, you search the forum and find threads the same as your problem, but the solutions are never posted after the problem was fixed

I'll keep this updated, I seriously appreciate the advice. I'll snap some pictures as well

 

I have 01 ranger with 3.0 4x4 auto also. same concern. I have found tsb for sanding mating surface of block but it didn't really solve problem. I have gotten in the point of checking oil filter about every 1000 miles and snugging up. doesn't bother me to much just keep eye on it. I also have replaced rear main, front cover gasket and water pump and mine has 120000miles. so not unheard of but still could have possible rear main, but that may be your quarter sized leak. I also replaced trans so that is why I replaced rear main due to being there already.

 

lightning: If I need a new sender should I got back to ford or go aftermarket?


This is such a simple part, that has been available from the mid-late 1950's that I would go with whatever source is convenient.
The threads generally do not leak, but the plastic-metal interface is the most likely failure point in my experience. Had one start to drizzle halfway from CA to CO, and changed in the auto parts parking lot on my Mom's Monarch. Rustproofed the bottom side.
You can use Teflon tape on the threads and it will still connect to the block for ground, or you can use pipe dope. Your choice. I find the tape 'neater'. Wrap a couple turns towards the direction of tightening, CCW viewed from the opening.
tom