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rusted lines

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Old 09-05-2016, 12:20 PM
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rusted lines

100kmiles and a lot of rust on the underside of my 2005 F150 XLT. I plan to keep the truck for another 5 years (50kmiles)

The brake lines look fine. Plastic fuel system looks great.

The front springs are broken so I will install quick struts. I have read how to do that and it looks straight forward.

The transmission and power steering lines are very rusted so I want to replace them. Even the heads are rusted so I may have trouble getting them out.

I have tranny lines that run to the radiator and also a cooler. Any tips on removal? Special tools? Where to buy lines?

Will I need to remove the steering rack? Should I replace the rack even though it is not leaking?

Anything else I should do preemptively?
 
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Old 09-06-2016, 09:47 PM
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I did the brake lines on an explorer and my F150 ... did not buy the "factory lines".. I bought generic lines the correct diameter and 4-6 ft long with correct screwed ends.. started at each end and ran toward each other. Cut off if too long and connect with a steel compression fitting ........ that should work great on transmission lines, and allows you to get around - into places that a prebent " factory" line could not be installed.... and you can change the routing slightly as needed for easier install.
 
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Old 09-07-2016, 08:42 AM
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I just blew a transmission line yesterday. 2007 F-150 FX4 68,000 miles. I'm starting to look for a replacement as this truck is killing me in repairs. Luckily I noticed a puddle of fluid under my truck at work and hopefully didn't damage the transmission. Very smart of you to do this before it goes. Apparently they're prone to doing this. I can't do myself so I'm paying a garage, it isn't cheap!
 
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Old 09-20-2016, 06:00 PM
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I completed the job so I thought I would share my experience.
The tranny lines must come from Ford. The power steering lines can be bought from Rockauto for half the price. I bought all from Ford.

To remove the tranny lines from the rad cooler and from the aux cooler (if you have one) requires the Lisle 39960. Even with the tool it is very difficult to get the lines out if they are rusted. I cut the tubes (leaving 6"), removed the aux cooler and radiator. Then I wired brushed the line, sprayed, dug the debris out of the fitting with a small screw driver, sprayed, moved the tube back and forth in all directions so you they are free to move and all the debris is out ...... until I finally got the tool to fit in far enough to release the tube. You can buy after market fittings for $20 each or buy a new cooler.

If you are going to pump the old fluid out (one gallon at a time, then add a gallon), do not use the tube that attaches to the upper rad fitting. I tried that and fluid back flowed and came out of the upper fitting make a mess. Instead use the return line where it attaches to the Tranny (it is the upper fitting).

Regarding power steering. I did not drop the rack. You can not buy the cross over tubes (they come with the rack). To remove the pressure line from the pump, you can cut the tube off with a dremel and use a socket to remove the fitting. Reinstalling requires you to either remove the pulley, remove the pump, or make sure your replacement hose does not have the fitting already quick connected to the short tube so that you can install the fitting with a socket and then quick connect the tube. I think some of the after market hoses come this way. The Ford hose I bought came as one piece and I did not see a way to disconnect the fitting so I removed the pump (I should have bought a pulley puller).

To remove the pressure and return tubes from the steering gear, you access it from the wheel well. Remove the bolt used to secure the locking plate (it hold both lines in). Then I pried the plate from the gear. I had to tap the return tube from the side to help loosen it so it would pop out.

The job would have gone much smoother if I would have removed my plow receiver.
 
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