'96 F350 transmission troubles, pressure readings inside
#1
'96 F350 transmission troubles, pressure readings inside
Hello, I'm working on a friends '96 F350 7.3l 2wd with E4OD trans. The trans is having some issues, and the symptoms are listed below:
Reverse - requires a LOT of throttle to engage reverse. Reverse will not engage until 2000+ rpm. When reverse does engage - no slips, no bad 'bangs' other than it engaging hard and spinning all 4 rear tires in reverse.
Drive - Takes off fine, but will not upshift. Can't tell if it's 1st or 2nd it's taking off in, but it feels 'normal' to me. If I pull it down into 2nd it feels like it'll upshift but won't accelerate Maybe I'm feeling a change in torque converter engagement and not a shift? IDK.
I put a pressure gauge on the trans and recording my findings. Pressures look a little high, but good otherwise. I believe this trans has a shift kit in it. Based on the pressure readings, I'm inclined to believe we're looking at a valve body or accumulator issue, and not a band or clutch pack issue. Does that sound like the direction I should be going? Engine runs great, no codes in PCM.
Fluid pressures (these are all cold readings - unless I let it sit and idle for 2 hours, no reasonable way to get the trans up to temp. Fluid is clean and full;.
Park - 90psi idle
Reverse - 145 psi idle, 300-330 WOT stall (foot on brake) - it peaked at 330 momentarily then dropped to 300 steady
OD/2nd - 105 psi idle, 220 psi WOT stall
Manual 1 - 180 psi idle, 265 psi WOT stall
Thanks in advance.
Reverse - requires a LOT of throttle to engage reverse. Reverse will not engage until 2000+ rpm. When reverse does engage - no slips, no bad 'bangs' other than it engaging hard and spinning all 4 rear tires in reverse.
Drive - Takes off fine, but will not upshift. Can't tell if it's 1st or 2nd it's taking off in, but it feels 'normal' to me. If I pull it down into 2nd it feels like it'll upshift but won't accelerate Maybe I'm feeling a change in torque converter engagement and not a shift? IDK.
I put a pressure gauge on the trans and recording my findings. Pressures look a little high, but good otherwise. I believe this trans has a shift kit in it. Based on the pressure readings, I'm inclined to believe we're looking at a valve body or accumulator issue, and not a band or clutch pack issue. Does that sound like the direction I should be going? Engine runs great, no codes in PCM.
Fluid pressures (these are all cold readings - unless I let it sit and idle for 2 hours, no reasonable way to get the trans up to temp. Fluid is clean and full;.
Park - 90psi idle
Reverse - 145 psi idle, 300-330 WOT stall (foot on brake) - it peaked at 330 momentarily then dropped to 300 steady
OD/2nd - 105 psi idle, 220 psi WOT stall
Manual 1 - 180 psi idle, 265 psi WOT stall
Thanks in advance.
#2
#3
Your pressures are all very, very high. They don't look good to me at all.
Does the OD OFF light work when you press the button? Has the light been flashing? Are there codes stored in the computer?
The 2000 RPM needed to engage reverse almost certainly means the reverse clutch is toast.
Does the OD OFF light work when you press the button? Has the light been flashing? Are there codes stored in the computer?
The 2000 RPM needed to engage reverse almost certainly means the reverse clutch is toast.
OD off light does come on when I press the button, turns off when I press it again. No flashing. No codes in the engine computer. I don't have anything that will communicate with the trans.
But if the reverse clutch were toast, wouldn't it slip? There's no slipping, it just doesn't engage at all. When it engages, it's firm and like I said, will smoke the tires in reverse. If you keep the revs up, it drives in reverse just fine.
#5
#6
Oh, ok. Now I understand a bit better. Didn't realize we were talking about a failed seal. I assumed you meant a burnt up clutch pack needing more fluid to engage because of clearances. My knowledge of auto transmissions is there, but obviously not extensive. It's been a long time since I've tried to rebuild one
So with that knowledge - there's no reason to attempt any in-vehicle repair then, is there? What else should be look for if we drop this trans and attempt a rebuild ourselves?
#7
Where should I look for rebuild parts for this trans? When it's apart, is there anything else I should be looking at besides the basics like clutches/steels etc? How to I test the valve body? I've searched, but can't find many write-ups on the things to check and how to check them. Surely somebody has rebuilt these before and can at least point me in the right direction??
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#9
Where should I look for rebuild parts for this trans? When it's apart, is there anything else I should be looking at besides the basics like clutches/steels etc? How to I test the valve body? I've searched, but can't find many write-ups on the things to check and how to check them. Surely somebody has rebuilt these before and can at least point me in the right direction??
Hope this helps and good luck!
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