the truck has 200,000 hard miles and has a loud noise when driving cold the first few minutes. I used a stethoscope and found a valve tapping in Cylinder 1. The loud tapping might be the loud noise, but I can't tell. I didn't use the scope when driving, only when sitting and idling. The 1-4 bank valve cover exhibits a gritty sound, too, like there's sand in the oil. The driver's side bank, 5-8, doesn't sound gritty, and there are no other significant tapping noises. I'm thinking I need to replace all the lash adjusters in both banks. Ought I to replace the rocker arms, too? Haynes manual says to do each cylinder one at a time using the valve spring spacer and the valve spring compressor tools.

I wonder how long this will take me and I wonder how long a qualified competent mechanic would charge to do it. I wonder if I can FIND a qualified, competent mechanic around here. I wonder how much the parts will cost if I do it myself, and if O'Reilly Auto Parts has good parts for this.

Appreciate any help.

 

Personally I think you are better off putting in a different motor with half the miles on it but that's just what I would do..

 

If money were not an issue, that's what I would do.

 

I think by the time you are done the cost will be the same..

 

How much does a "new" motor cost, and how much would it cost me to buy 16 HLAs?

You would recommend that I replace the motor despite it running smooth, getting 14 mpg, starting every time, just because it has a single valve tap at 200,000 miles?

Sounds like you REALLY want me to say, you're right, I'm gonna replace the motor because it has a tap. Not gonna happen. I use stuff until it dies. But I take care of it until then. If I can do something for this engine, I will. It's strong and smooth, economical.

Surely a maintenance tweak to it is cheaper than replacing it. But you tell me the numbers for the lash adjusters versus the whole engine.

 

I agree you don't need to replace the entire engine just because of a valve tap. I had a similar issue and just decided to rebuild the top end plus all the wear items that I could get to while in their. I bought new lifters,gaskets, did the timing chain, water pump and oil pump while I was in there. All is pretty cheap I had the heads done for $150 which included cleaning them, recutting the valves and seats and installing new seals. I also replaced cheap sensors etc. Basically anything that would be hard to get to after it was all put back together. The job is not that hard or expensive. Here is a link to my build if you want pics for reference. The truck is running fantastic now. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...st-repair.html

 

I read the entire thread, and I have to agree and repeat what one guy said about it: "Damn!" That's a sweet looking truck.

Your posts and encouragement and reports make the job of rebuilding the top of the engine sound doable. My eyes opened wide during the post where you said that you took the front of the truck off in 45 minutes so you could stand inside the engine compartment rather than kneel on top of the radiator, bent over, to reach down. That's been the major problem with my truck mechanicing work... I have to perch like a drunk vulture on the tips of my knees on little flat spots, and it kills me. My truck is worse than yours because it's the 4x4 and it's up higher, I think. I've stripped the steering gear box adjustment bolt slot trying to take all the play out of the steering - there was 8" when I bought it last month, and now it's only an inch, but that thing is stripped. Without a stubby screwdriver, I can't get a good angle on it, plus it really puts me in a bind to bend down into there to get to it. Aargh! But taking the front off, I can probably use a saw blade and a file and put a good screwdriver slot back into the top of that bolt, get a good angle, and tighten it snug.

I use the truck for working, so I will probably think about doing this job over the Christmas/New Year holiday season, when my work typically dries up. I do home remodeling and repair, and folks don't like their homes torn up during the holidays.

You seem like a very knowledgeable mechanic. If my valve tap is a collapsed lash adjuster, would there be an engine treatment procedure that might fix it? I'm thinking NOT, because with 200,000 miles the valve covers are probably filled with caked on, hardened sludge, and the lash adjusters are probably varnished, burned and collapsed beyond repair. The tap really is not even noticeable once the engine is warmed up. Not that much, anyway. I can probably limp along so to speak until the holidays.

You make the timing thing sound so simple. Did you have to get #1 to TDC of the compression stroke before putting the two chains on? I called a mechanic in town who works on fleet trucks, he said the 5.4L 2v has a single camshaft, but it looked to me like each head had a camshaft in it and a chain to drive it, from the crank. Do I have that right? That mechanic also said the heads have to come off to replace the lash adjusters, and even though I said the Haynes manual described another option to replace individual lash adjusters using a valve spring spacer and compression tools, he said no, the heads have to come off. I don't trust 99% of mechanics. But I think it's stupid to replace the lash adjusters by themselves when the whole top end is going to be worn to a nub. The smart thing is to do the whole top - head jobs, new HLA's (hydraulic lash adjusters) (didn't they used to be called lifters?), and other stuff while I'm there. Timing chains seemed to be cheap to me, why not replace those, too. A mechanic will charge a couple grand, I bet, and maybe screw it up. Last time I had a head job by a mechanic, the engine wouldn't run right and I had to get a new engine, from a different shop, of course.

I actually was a professional mechanic during my college years. I took engine theory and repair courses as my elective courses (and welding), and learned how to troubleshoot engine problems. My business was successful and I loved the work. I fixed cars that dealers couldn't fix, and usually quickly and cheaply. I ran that business for three years and then moved on to construction. Never used my college degree for anything, but I partied hardy getting the thing.

Anyway, your thread was awesome, and I hope you get the interior done, and post some photos of that. And thanks for backing me up. Patrick.

 

You came on a forum asking for opinions and information I gave you my opinion and you are getting all defensive and sarcastic. I could care less if you want to open up your motor with absolutely zero experience with working on a Mod motor. I never once said buy a NEW motor I said find one from a used or wrecked truck with half the miles which around here range from $600 to $900. But you obviously know way more than me so good luck on your 200,000 mile motor with grinding and tapping issue...

 

Actually, Chris, it's you who's gotten defensive and sarcastic. When I put new in quotations marks, that indicated that it would be a used motor that would be new to me. I understand that you meant a used motor. Who said I had zero experience working with motors??? A mod motor is simply the factory set up, being able to change it's machinery so it can work on different motors in the same assembly line. My point has been, all along, that I'm not about throwing a basically good motor away when it needs some maintenance.

I can't explain why you're all bent out of shape. I do ask for opinions, but ultimately I do what I decide is best for me according to my finances, my inclinations, and my mindset. It's counterproductive to think I am going to follow whatever advice is given to me. I'm not a robot, or a slave. I'm a free man. Thanks for your advice, and don't get offended that I'm going to do some maintenance work on it.

 

PS Who said I know more than you? I don't even know who you are. I never said it, never implied it. I just know what I want to do, which is fix my truck without buying a whole new engine, even if it's only $600.

As someone said, get over it, be cordial and respectful.

 

Thanks on the truck compliments. For the small amount of money I have into it I really like how it turned out. The mechanic you talked to was either confused or didn't explain it correctly. As far as a single camshaft he probably meant per head because ford does make the modular motors in a dohc meaning there is 2 cams per head. Then there is also the 3v heads that are known to have issues. The 5.4 2v is the best combo in my opinion because it has a lot less that can go wrong. The heads don't have to come off to replace the lash adjuster/lifters (to me I still think they are more a hydro lifter than a lash adjuster but people call them different things). That being said if you use the tool that allows you to replace one at a time the odds are they are almost all not to far behind so it would be beneficial to replace them all and do the timing chain, head gaskets, oil pump and water pump. Its only a couple hundred in parts at most and your engine may go another 200,000 with no issues. As far as built of sludge and grime like you would see on an older standard V8 these motors don't tend to get that build up because of the great oiling system they have. I don't know of any magic in a bottle that will work with those type of lifters. It's kinda like when they're done they're done. You got this.

 

Yeah. I did a little research on that engine, and indeed they have two cams but are called a SOHC because there's one per head, not two per head as in the DOHC. I wonder what that gritty noise is that I hear? It's only audible through the stethoscope. That can't be good. Well, it runs great, so probably it can get me to Christmas, then I'll do the chains, the lifters, the pumps, the gaskets, and fix that steering gear box adjustment.

Did you use a book to help you out?