99 XLT 4x4 5.4 89,000 Miles. 69,000 on rebuilt engine.
Truck has been in storage since July 2010. Fuel pump replaced, filter and tank drained, oil and antifreeze. replaced front stabilizer "rods", tow hitch and oem factory running boards and windshield. It ran fine. Then a week later I went to fire it up and nothing. My mechanic did the "key" thing and battery thing. I had my KeyMaster Locksmith come over yesterday for the 3rd Time. He told me the key is programed and must be something else. Told me to use volt meter and jump start it "directly." Told one of my this and he told me that I need to get a key from the Ford Dealer. This locksmith has made Two sets of keys for me through the years and worked fine. At a loss here. Need Help. Tim

 

[QUOTE=SnowHiker;16535986]99 XLT 4x4 5.4 89,000 Miles. 69,000 on rebuilt engine.
Truck has been in storage since July 2010. Fuel pump replaced, filter and tank drained, oil and antifreeze. replaced front stabilizer "rods", tow hitch and oem factory running boards and windshield. It ran fine. Then a week later I went to fire it up and nothing. My mechanic did the "key" thing and battery thing. I had my KeyMaster Locksmith come over yesterday for the 3rd Time. He told me the key is programed and must be something else. Told me to use volt meter and jump start it "directly." Told one of my this and he told me that I need to get a key from the Ford Dealer. This locksmith has made Two sets of keys for me through the years and worked fine. At a loss here. Need Help. Tim

 

Your posting doesn't really make much sense.

Why do you think you have a "key problem"?

What does "nothing" mean, does it mean absolutely nothing or does it mean something but not everything?

???? What are those "things"?

How the heck do you do that????

 

Should of Subjected as Starting Issue not Key issue

 

put the key in the ignition and turn the key to the "ON" position, but do not start. The THEFT light on the dash should come on for 3 seconds, then go out after the computer recognizes the key as correct and codes match... If the light does not go out, the key is not correct... I have had several keys cut and programed myself with good luck... I have also worked on a 2012 TAURUS that had two factory keys and I could not program a 3-4 key I had cut... don't know why. If that happens, you need to have the FORD dealer program the keys with their computer.

 

there is no way to jump start the truck with a volt meter.. If the theft light is on or constant flashing, it will not start......If the key is OK, then check that the fuel pump is running for 3 seconds when the key is turned ON.

 

Yes Steve. The Key on theft shuts off at 3 seconds. By volt meter I mean check it. Then try jumping it by other then hooking up to battery. Will look into the fuel pump running. It is a new one. Anyway it could be a fuse issue. The Haynes manual is vague to me. thanks. Tim

 

well, if the theft light goes out, then you SHOULD have the spark side.... now you need fuel and timing... go to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail above engine... push the pin and see if it squirts fuel ? should have about 40 psi.

 

Thanks Steve. Will do that.