Good Morning, here's our story, we bought what we thought was a nicertain low mileage 2007 F250 xlt 4x4.
Unfortunately, it's been a money pit since day two. It's had all the delete kits, bullet proofing and all that jazz, from Numerous shops. It's still unreliable.
Again, unfortunately we now have about $25k tied up in this truck, purchase price, tax title, numerous repairs and then bullet proofing. So, we can't just trade it or sell it without taking a Huge hit. The Ford Dealership want even trade for it, none of the used car lots will take it, the First thing they ask is "that's not a 6.0 is it?"

So now to my questions, what's the best Gasoline engine to swap into the F250? (I know the wiring and computer, etc will need to be changed). Fortunately we have a "pull a part" salvage near.
I'm considering the 5.4 because it's commonly available at the salvage lot for $175, all the time.

I'll buy the small parts, wiring computer, etc at the lot. Those are dirt cheap, what I'm wondering is, what if any gasoline engine will fit my current automatic transmission?

 

Howdy,

Welcome aboard!

I am pretty sure that you'll need an engine, trans (+TC) and ECM. The diesel bell housing doesn't match the gas engine bolt patterns

If I had it, and the engine has ARP studs and/or doesn't have failed head gaskets, I would just fix it. It sounds like the problem(s) have not been diagnosed properly.

Regards,


Rick

 

Where do I begin? The fuel tank (along with plumbing), fuel lines, instrument cluster (yes they are diesel and gas specific), underhood engine harness, frame harness, some brake system hardware (the diesel uses hydroboost while the gassers use vacuum assist), all the intake and exhaust plumbing....and that about sums up the KNOWN differences off the top of my head.

What type of truck is this? I mean box and cab configuration? For example, if your truck is a crew cab short box 4x4, you will need to source out another '06 to '07 crew cab short box 4x4 gas truck (either the 5.4L 3V or 6.8L V10 3V) to get all your parts from. And I would say you'd need to buy the whole truck.

Going about your intention as you've described will only go about as painlessly as possible if you do it by the way I've described in the 2nd paragraph of this post, and will still be A LOT of work. To do it any other way but that, is to open up a complete can of worms.

How big of a hit is it, if you just cut your losses and unload it as it is now? How much of a bigger hit are you going to take by doing what you want to it? And I can tell you it's going to be A LOT more than $175!!!!

 

The way the OP describes it, I can perfectly picture what the condition of the truck is. It's what I would consider one that has had too many hands on it at once. I would bet it COULD be made reliable again, if EVERYTHING was done all at once. But whether or not the OP is willing to spend the money on it to bring it back to such condition is what remains in question. A bigger question is how much less expensive is it going to be, to swap in a gas engine in its place, if it is at all?

 

I agree. The brake system could probably be used. Hydraulic boost is easy to use on any vehicle. (don't know how that would work with the GAS ECM and the anti-skid programming etc) The harness would be a nightmare to adapt if it wasn't swapped out altogether!

If the "swap" was going to happen, the best, easiest process would include a complete donor truck.....

I also think it would be "easier" to just "fix" the current engine unless it has serious catastrophic problems.

What exactly does "unreliable" mean?

No start?, hard start? no hot start? poor acceleration, etc etc....... The right person hooking it up to an IDS might reveal volumes, point directly to the faulty component(s), and be the quickest way to get it back running right.

"Mechanics" who don't know what they are doing usually replace parts hoping to "hit" the right one. That almost always results in a LOT of money spent and doesn’t always result in a fix.

If you reveal your approximate location, people here can point you to someone in your area that does know what they're doing and can either fix it or help you fix it.


Cheers,


Rick

 

Just to ad, if you live in an emissions controlled area you will probably have to go thru a state emissions rep. To get it passed. Find a local mechanic that really knows the 6.0. That to me is the way to go.

 

There's no way a gas swap is cheaper than a reman 6.0. $13k for a Ford drop-in that'll run out of the crate, down to $7k for an Ashville longblock with studs.

Ford reman will also have a 24mo/unlimited mile parts warranty.

You in western TN? Missouri isn't that far, couple hundred miles to a great shop where the guy won't screw you around, either fixing what you have or replacing with a reman.

 

An engine swap is impractical. If you don't want the diesel anymore, swap the whole truck with someone that does.

 

Incorrect.

The diesel 5R110 shares the same "modular" bolt pattern with the gas engines.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_o...lar_V8_pattern

 

That's incorrect. The trans will bolt to either a 5.4L or a 6.8L engine. There was only one bellhousing ever produced for the 5R110 trans.

The torque converter will have to be changed. Not only will it have the wrong stall speed for a gas engine, it has six studs to the flexplate, where a gas engine only has four bolts.[/QUOTE]

That's correct.

 

Thor is correct. Part #7005 on Fordparts.com whether it is a 6.0, 5.4, or 6.8l.
This use to be an issue with 6.9idi, 7.3idi, 7.3di diesels.

 

Most importantly, we need more info on the current problems with the truck.

The biggest problem with the 6.0 IMO, is the incompetant mechanics who think they know how to work on them. The 6.0 is an engine that has quirks that you have to understand in order to fix them. It sounds like the truck has been taken to the wrong place from the start.

The 6.0 is misunderstood and feared, but in reality, is a very good engine when cared for properly and when you know what tou are doing with it. For example, mine was running sluggish and belched black smoke at one point. It ended up being a couple easy to access sensors and a valve that needed cleaning and it ran like new afterwards. I spent about $3 on a can of carb cleaner and 30 minutes to fix that problem. (Egr valve, IAT sensor and EBP sensor)

As the others have said, it is a huge task to convert one of these trucks to a gasser and also a downgrade IMO. You are much better off taking your truck so someone who knows the 6.0. These forums are a great place to gain personal knowledge so you can get the most out of your truck. I learned a great amount here and loved my 6.0 even more because of it. I know you are frustrated, but not all is lost. You can still make your 6.0 reliable and once you get it dialed in, you will learn to love it. Trust me.

 

Good to know that!

My "rash" assumption was loosely based on the E4OD I have bolted to my Y-block(that I originally got from a 94 F450 7.3 diesel) . There was no way the diesel bell would have worked with the adapter , so I had to find an E4OD case that bolted to the SBF/300-6 to make it all work.

I suppose it's no coincidence that Ford got smart and made all the bell housing bolt patterns the same as the VT365 (or Navistar made the VT365 the "same" as a bunch of "gassers"!)

 

Navistar made their bellhousing match the Ford pattern. Ford had been using that pattern in the modular engines since the early 90's.

 

"Nobody has made MERCON since 2006. MERCON V replaced MERCON. Get over it."

Funniest thing I've read today....