1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Why is my 239 Y-block dying?

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  #91  
Old 09-06-2016, 09:19 PM
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With the smaller port heads you'd need to use the smaller port "A" 4 Barrel intake. The larger port "B" intake will bolt up but there will be a port mismatch between the intake & head. The small "ECZ 9425 A" intake needs to use a 4 barrel teapot or the small Carter carb.
 
  #92  
Old 09-06-2016, 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by HT32BSX115
I believe he does.

I suppose I am talking about putting a 292 manifold on it and using a more "standard" 2100 on it. My 239 had a holley 2bbl carb on it and (if I remember correctly) 4 bolt manifold like this one from my current 292...
I believe that's actually an Autolite 2100 2-barrel, a good carb.

With Harrier's current gearing I can't see a point to a 4-bbl... 94's have their issues (mostly the PV) but they are decent for economy.
 
  #93  
Old 09-07-2016, 09:26 AM
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I believe Joe wants to keep the truck as it was when it was a family working truck.
If it were me, I would concentrate on getting the existing carburetor working as designed instead of taking a chance on some fleabay unit of unknown heritage or condition.
 
  #94  
Old 09-07-2016, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by raytasch
I believe Joe wants to keep the truck as it was when it was a family working truck.
If it were me, I would concentrate on getting the existing carburetor working as designed instead of taking a chance on some fleabay unit of unknown heritage or condition.
Looks like we have a voice of reason here now. I was laughing about suggestions to change intake and such. That darkside is a slippery slope.

It's all great info though. I'm tempted to get a 2110 carb, but since I won't be driving cross country (especially with my gearing) my 7RT is probably fine. I do wonder how it got on the truck though....

Shoot, I still need to order the power valve. Looks like I have a task for this evening. I also need to see if O'Reilly has a vacuum gauge as a loaner tool....or I should get one of those too.

I do find it interesting that my troubles seemed to be all carb related. I also didn't actually do to much to it....I still have lots of learning to do, but it's sure a joy driving the truck when I don't have to worry about it dying at stops.
 
  #95  
Old 09-07-2016, 10:15 AM
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Joe, a vacuum gauge is relatively cheap and you will use it in the future. Believe me, it is a handy tool. I have one installed in Blue. There is nothing that will tell you more about how your old engine is running.
That jet that is stopped on your carburetor should be easy to clean. A few squirts from a can of carburetor cleaner should clear it. If not, a very soft small copper wire will.
Edit: Someone will be along with the correct carburetor for your truck. So far as "How that carb got on the truck"? When that truck was used daily it was common practice to install rebuilt carburetors on a vehicle, not always exactly identical to original.
 
  #96  
Old 09-07-2016, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Harrier
Looks like we have a voice of reason here now. I was laughing about suggestions to change intake and such.
Not really, since the 239 can accept pretty much all the Y-manifolds.

Now having said all that, I would probably only change from a "Towering Inferno" carb if I had one. (you do not!) Rebuilding that 7RT should be at least as "easy" as rebuilding any other simple carb.

I only changed mine to get a (new) 390cfm Holley 4v carb with a throttle position sensor!

It should work at least as good as that 2bbl in my picture!

I totally "get" staying with the 239, AND to "keep it stock"

Just rebuild your carb and don't forget to add some sort of fuel filter!

Cheers,


Rick
 
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