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2013 F150 brake options

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  #16  
Old 09-20-2016, 03:03 PM
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I installed PowerStop drilled and slotted rotors and Wagner ThermoQuiet ceramic pads last Saturday. About $180 from Rock Auto.
 
  #17  
Old 09-21-2016, 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by David W Jones
I installed PowerStop drilled and slotted rotors and Wagner ThermoQuiet ceramic pads last Saturday. About $180 from Rock Auto.
Must have been ONLY Front or Rear, can't be all 4 wheels right

Now I do remember seeing a lesser grade option than I bought, which was "Truck & Tow Extreme" but hell I paid $428 total, which was a good deal for that kit, after shopping around awhile. My kit did all 4 corner's, please elaborate on what you bought, so others "may" save $
 
  #18  
Old 09-21-2016, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by King-bRanch
Must have been ONLY Front or Rear, can't be all 4 wheels right

Now I do remember seeing a lesser grade option than I bought, which was "Truck & Tow Extreme" but hell I paid $428 total, which was a good deal for that kit, after shopping around awhile. My kit did all 4 corner's, please elaborate on what you bought, so others "may" save $

The OP asked about upgrading front brakes.

My total was $186.34 actually.

From Rock Auto I bought Powerstop AR85108XPR front rotors @ $127.58 a pair. For the pads I went with Wagner QC1414 ceramic, also from Rock Auto. $36.79 for the front set. Fed Ex shipping was $21.97 and I ordered on a Wednesday and Fed Ex dropped it off on that Friday.

After looking at the various front "kits" offered I decided I could put together something cheaper and with better quality pads (and probably more suited to a daily driver) than what I'd seen offered. I also read a couple of reviews about the quality of the Powerstop front pads that made me decide to look else where. I've run Wagner products in the past and the ThermoQuiet's I went with have a strong following.
 
  #19  
Old 09-21-2016, 08:19 AM
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I'll also add that Rock Auto was cheapest (that I could find and felt good about) by a pretty good margin. The Powerstop rotors offered elsewhere generally ran $175 and up....way up in places. And the Wagner pads were somewhat more expensive also, like $72.99 at Advance Auto.
 
  #20  
Old 09-22-2016, 01:10 AM
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I bought the Powerstop Extreme Truck & Tow rotor and pad kit for my front and rear brakes. I will be installing this weekend.
 
  #21  
Old 09-25-2016, 12:25 AM
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I installed the powerstop kit this weekend. It went pretty smoothly. Took my time with it and had it done by late afternoon. I think these brakes will be much better than stock. The right front brake was the only one in bad shape, inside pad was worn almost to metal. I think it may have been a combination of warped rotor and lack of lubrication on the brake pad slide grooves.
 
  #22  
Old 09-26-2016, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by TheBestNeverRest
I installed the powerstop kit this weekend. It went pretty smoothly. Took my time with it and had it done by late afternoon. I think these brakes will be much better than stock. The right front brake was the only one in bad shape, inside pad was worn almost to metal. I think it may have been a combination of warped rotor and lack of lubrication on the brake pad slide grooves.
If the inside pad was burnt down way more than the outside pad from the same caliper, then IMO your caliper is hanging up & should be replaced. I don't want to see those new pads get chewed up. Please for your sake consider changing that caliper or at least pay very very close attention to how the pads are wearing, then change it when u see a difference. But if it were me & the inside pad was burnt down, while the outside had sufficiently more material, I would change the caliper. Not only can a stuck caliper ruin a set of pads quickly, but the constant heat generated from brakes not fully releasing will cause the rotor to warp.

Approximately what was the difference in thickness between inside/outside pad's
 
  #23  
Old 09-26-2016, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by King-bRanch
If the inside pad was burnt down way more than the outside pad from the same caliper, then IMO your caliper is hanging up & should be replaced. I don't want to see those new pads get chewed up. Please for your sake consider changing that caliper or at least pay very very close attention to how the pads are wearing, then change it when u see a difference. But if it were me & the inside pad was burnt down, while the outside had sufficiently more material, I would change the caliper. Not only can a stuck caliper ruin a set of pads quickly, but the constant heat generated from brakes not fully releasing will cause the rotor to warp.

Approximately what was the difference in thickness between inside/outside pad's

Warren, Are these trucks known for caliper failure too? I only ask because I'm getting ready to order the Powerstop rotors for the front of my Red Beast . I haven't heard of caliper failure before on these. But any given part can go bad at any given time, with or without reason. We just sunk near $1200 into my wife's car because both rear calipers seized up. The shop manager told us that is a common failure on that model ('05 Merc Montego).
 
  #24  
Old 09-27-2016, 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by King-bRanch
If the inside pad was burnt down way more than the outside pad from the same caliper, then IMO your caliper is hanging up & should be replaced. I don't want to see those new pads get chewed up. Please for your sake consider changing that caliper or at least pay very very close attention to how the pads are wearing, then change it when u see a difference. But if it were me & the inside pad was burnt down, while the outside had sufficiently more material, I would change the caliper. Not only can a stuck caliper ruin a set of pads quickly, but the constant heat generated from brakes not fully releasing will cause the rotor to warp.

Approximately what was the difference in thickness between inside/outside pad's
I don't remember the difference in thickness, if I still have them in the garage I will take a picture of them. I don't think the caliper itself was hanging up. The pistons pushed back in fairly easy. I will be keeping an eye on that side for a while though. So far I am happy with the new brakes. I don't think the truck ever stopped as nicely as it does now.
 
  #25  
Old 09-27-2016, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Pgh Rebel
Warren, Are these trucks known for caliper failure too? I only ask because I'm getting ready to order the Powerstop rotors for the front of my Red Beast . I haven't heard of caliper failure before on these. But any given part can go bad at any given time, with or without reason. We just sunk near $1200 into my wife's car because both rear calipers seized up. The shop manager told us that is a common failure on that model ('05 Merc Montego).
Not that I am aware of

Originally Posted by TheBestNeverRest
I don't remember the difference in thickness, if I still have them in the garage I will take a picture of them. I don't think the caliper itself was hanging up. The pistons pushed back in fairly easy. I will be keeping an eye on that side for a while though. So far I am happy with the new brakes. I don't think the truck ever stopped as nicely as it does now.
If they pushed back easily, your "probably" ok, however a big difference in thickness between inside/outside pad generally spells a hanging caliper or stuck slide pins. Hopefully your slide pins were moving easily & you added a bit of new grease to them also.

So awesome the Powerstop Kits come w/new hardware & grease
Just check that side in a bit, to see how its wearing
 
  #26  
Old 09-27-2016, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by King-bRanch
If they pushed back easily, your "probably" ok, however a big difference in thickness between inside/outside pad generally spells a hanging caliper or stuck slide pins. Hopefully your slide pins were moving easily & you added a bit of new grease to them also.
BUT do not use petroleum based grease as it will swell the rubber bellows and cause the sliders to seize up. IIRC, Ford calls for a silicone based grease like their dialectric compound.


Just saying............
 
  #27  
Old 09-27-2016, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by pdqford
BUT do not use petroleum based grease as it will swell the rubber bellows and cause the sliders to seize up. IIRC, Ford calls for a silicone based grease like their dialectric compound.


Just saying............
Slide pins were all good. I used a black synthetic grease on them. Safe for rubber.
 
  #28  
Old 10-23-2016, 01:55 AM
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Retired GM master here and it's time for some rotors on the front of my 2013 F150.
Never could get my payment to work right with Rock Auto so I had to source my parts locally. Anyone used the Bosch Quiet Cast rotors on their vehicle?
I've used them on brand X a few times over the years and they seemed ok there. Being this is my first Ford truck I thought it wise to ask those who own and have done so for awhile

Thanks

Wayne
 
  #29  
Old 10-25-2016, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by RadioTech
Anyone used the Bosch Quiet Cast rotors on their vehicle?
I'm curious about these Bosch rotors as well. O'Reilly's carries these as their upgrade option.
I had to have my front rotors turned at about 36K miles, but had assumed that was due to towing ~6K lbs with a trailer that had shoddy brakes. Now at 78K miles the rotors are warped again.
A buddy of mine had warped rotors on his 2011 F150 with about 75K miles. He recently purchased the Power Stop rotors and pads and is disappointed with them. He said one pad on each side is only making about 75% contact with the rotors. I suggested he contact the manufacturer to see if they had any insight, but based on his experience I'm looking elsewhere.
 
  #30  
Old 10-29-2016, 10:28 AM
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Has anyone here had any experience with Centric Rotors? Knocking on 120K and haven't touched my brakes yet, but I'm due very soon. Can have the fronts done with MC pads for <$200.
 


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