You are correct.

 

Gonna have to address the motor temp issue soon. I know it's cooling off outside but I think it still needs to be addressed. It's not totally overheating into the danger zone but after about 45 minutes this is where it lands. Coolant level seems ok. Thermostat maybe? How does one test a thermostat? Guess we shall find out.

 

.. in a pot of water atop the stove and a temp probe like a meat thermometer.

More better if our OEM gauges had graduations referenced to an actual temperature.

 

The gauge reading depends on the calibration of the sender, however I would estimate that reading to be about 215-220* F.

 

So what is a safe operating temperature of the 302 on a hot day

 

No hotter than that! Generally, 230 is getting into the danger zone, 240 starts causing damage.

 

I'm thinking my t-stat is on the fritz. Gonna try testing it first

 

The temperature of a 302 or any motor on any day is the setting of the thermostat in that motor if everything else is properly functioning.

Maybe time to pluck the radiator and send it to a shop if you are in doubt.

 

This is why your engine is running hot. The alternator and the P/S should be on separate belts. The way it is now, the belt is not around the water pump pulley enough. The belt is slipping more than driving the water pump.








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#4 vbrep_register("16523399")
08-25-2016, 07:44 AM

 

And how does someone do that?

 

The alternator needs a shorter belt just for it. The pump has to come forward so it's belt will ride in the front sheave of the crank and water pump pulleys. That P/S pump bracket looks weird to me. The PO must have gotten one off the wrong engine and modified it. The part number on that bracket was D0AZ3A732C but none around the NOS companies or any dealers. Is there any Bumps with a 302 in a local wrecking yard? Or, that bracket was also on:
70/72 full size Ford cars with a 302. 1970 with a 351 also.
70/72 Torino 302 (72 w/o A/C). Also 70/72 351C
71/72 Mustangs 302 and 351. Also 351C with A/C.


May fit Mercs also but I can't check right now. Gotta Go.

 

So what we are saying here is long story short I'm looking at needing to switch out one of the pulleys with a 2 belt capable pulley and finding the right P/S bracket which will align it forward a bit to sit in a different pulley grove? Is this an enhancement we are talking about or are we saying it should have not be like this from the factory and so the PO modified it somehow? It sounds easy enough to do. A couple hour project....

Anyone have pics of this 2 belt setup on my year style?

There's a handful of pull-a-parts here in town so I'll have to check it out.

 

Just guessing you could shim the power steering out with longer spacers and then use the front pulley to drive it. The rear pulley is for water pump/alt.

 

So there you go. See Jeff #24 above. There is not one in 1000 mechanics that could make that call. Well done Jeff. That motor is obviously wrong and you spotted it.

OP: With a chopsaw and metal blade and a length of 1/2 galvanized pipe you can push the pump forward to engage the pulley. Also, don't test the thermostat, dump it and buy a top quality Stant or Robertshaw or anything of quality and replace it. The auto supply store will give you a belt to fit your modified pump if you take a string measurement down.

 

Thanks John and Jeff for the info.
Ironically I read a ton of info here on this forum about overheating and never ran into this as a solution.... then again, the motor may not have been set up wrong. This may also explain why autozone and oreillys couldn't find the V belt when I went in to ask for a repplacement.

ok. this seems easy enough. Although I can't find a picture to support it, my crank sure enough has 2 grooves. Luckily I work somewhere that sells black galvanized pipe and has a cutter/threader so I can make them all identical. Wonder what the best way to gauge how long the spacers need to be? Measure the distance on the bottom crank pulley belt between the center of where the belt is now and the new groove? sound like a plan?