Title says it all I had my windshield resealed and I thought I had no more water leaks....WRONG !!! So one day after heavy rains my GEM unit started to freak out: OD light blinking, speedo bouncing up & down, door locks not working with key fob, radio staying on after key is out and other odd things. So I pulled the trim off the drivers side windshield post put some paper towels up in there. The clearance lights on top of the cab were leaking from both base & lens. I also found that the overhead console problem was a resistor is loose.

So I thought well since I need to R&I the lights I'll drop the headliner and insulate the roof. Because Blackie is like a oven after sitting in the sun. So I turned to Eastwood products and Eastwood's X Mat #15825 Hood Insulation is 1/4" thick and will fit under the headliner without causing an issue. Here is where I messed up I have a crew cab and I did not do the math. I had only bought 1 roll and to do it right it would take about 1 1/2 rolls. So I wasn't able to insulate the roof the way I was planning but it was still a huge improvement in keeping the heat out. I took out a temp gun and on a 88* day the roof skin on the inside was 137* and where I had the X Mat it was 107*.
30* difference is really good and lives up to Eastwoods claims !

Here you can see that even dirt was getting under the cab lights.
So I used Permatex Clear RTV Silicone #80050 to reseal housings to cab and lens to the housings after cleaning everything.


Also if you look closely you can see I used metal duct tape to seal up all holes in the roof reinforcement. Did it help ??? Did it hurt NO.


You can in this photo that I ran out of X Mat and used left over pieces where I could. OOpppsss Oh well... it is still better then nothing.


I also had bought a box of 12x12 XMat #15842 to finish the front doors with. Well once again I wasn't thinking that day and it takes about 4 1/2 mats to do one door. So I was able to finish the drivers door skin and I only had 2 mats to put on the other front door skin.

 

Nice write up. What do the screws for the clearance lights screw into? Are there metal clips that slide over the holes in the roof?

 

I will do my best to explain how they mount. I am sorry I did not take any photos of the clearance lights when I had them off.

Well the base of the clearance lights are made of plastic and have 2 studs that screw into the plastic and the other end of the studs have machine threads and a 10mm nut that screws on inside the roof. The base has a foam seal on the bottom of the base to seal it to the roof. I did NOT remove the foam seals since they were sealed well to the base but I did use the RTV silicone on and around the foam gasket.
**Warning** The studs in the base will want to come loose before the nut on the bottom side of roof does. So what I did to get the nuts loose without the studs coming loose from base was I used a 10mm wrench and the studs have a torx end so I used a torx socket to hold the stud. Also used the RTV silicone on the threads and hole where the lens mounts.

Now on the lens I found the factory gasket inside the base to be worthless so I removed them and used the RTV silicone to seal the outer edges on the base.