Called Rosewood today, they had a set of Stage 1s on the shelf and they should be here next week. Just need to get the rest of my parts ordered.

 

I've never seen the copper ones. I'd say the stainless steel would hold up better than copper with the kind of heat they are subjected to.

 

I made flat flanges for mine then cut gasket for them. They were OK but burned out. Then I switched to cutting a donut in half. We'll see how that goes. I so have a set of stainless gaskets from riff raff but I think it would be better to have the collector flat as well so that may mean welding the chamfer and flattening it for a good seal.

Any how get r done.

 

Spent last night ordering parts, so no work got done on the truck. The price of the bellows has gone up considerably since Bill first posted his DIY thread. Total cost for the bellows, International gaskets from Riffraff, and the flanges is about $165. Still way cheaper than the International pipes, but clearly shows that Riffraff's pipes for under $500 are a good deal.

 

Anybody have a turbo collector they want to get rid of? One of the up pipe bolts broke off in mine. I'm looking for something in the cheap to free range (spent too much already). I tried to drill it out, but without a drill press and the bit walked quite a bit before it made it through to other side. I could probably still make it work since I'm getting slotted flanges.

Anyhow, turbo is out, fuel pump is gone, EBPV has been gutted (just need a freeze plug to close the shaft hole), and I started sorting all my parts for the efuel.

 

Cleaned out the valley, got the fuel filter and pump bracket made today and started wiring the relay into the fuse box. New parts start arriving tomorrow.

Best way to end a day of wrenching, the last piece of pie and a cold glass of milk...

 

Got my flanges, bellows, and a yellow tape box yesterday. Tonight I should get my injectors, clutch kit, and rear main seal. I didn't get much done due to today being the first day of school for the kids, but I did finish wiring the FP relay into the fuse box (only 2 new wires coming out of it) and bolted the filters and pump to my bracket.



This is how I plan to wire the fuel pump so that it will get a short pulse to prime the system when I turn the key on.

EDIT: The original diagram didn't work properly; see post #40 for final wiring diagram.

 

I thought about adding a relay in the box under the hood. Much cleaner look that way.

 

Yeah, it's nice and clean. I'd like to get another relay box and rewire the headlights.

Parts, parts, parts....


Sealed the EBPV shaft. Still lots left to do.

 

Can't say that I'm impressed with the International up pipe gaskets... they're only .016" thick. For $50 they better work like they're suppose to.

 

That's a neat idea.

 

Since I had been planning the efuel swap before the clutch went out I was going to use the stock fuel lines with the correct hydraulic fitting for the banjo bolt. I didn't want to try to bend new lines or even attempt to reach the rear fittings. But now the turbo is out and the stock lines seemed really loose, so I figured I might as well make some new lines using 5/16" steel and compression fittings (big thanks to Bill for this idea!).

 

You just have to love Jim. Wonderful guys to be involved with. You will be very pleased.
Everything is looking good sir! Keep up the good work!

 

They were absolutely awesome. I called less than an hour before closing and they still shipped the same day. And it's really nice that you don't have to pay the core charge up front when pre-shipping injectors. They only charge you if you do not send your cores back within 30 days or don't make arrangements for more time.

 

What size fuse is everyone using for the fuel pump? 20A? 30A?