Is it _stripped_ (threads) or _rounded_ (head)? If it's stripped, you'll either need another plug, or re-tap the housing. If it's rounded, try one of the bolt extractor socket products such as Irwin Bolt-Grip or Craftsman Bolt-Out. I've even had some success with the cheap Harbor Freight Pittsburg version.

Another fill option would be the VSS opening.

 

It is stripped on the head. I'll look into those things you named but for now I'll prob fill through the vent. I'll order a new plug (anyone have a link or a part number?) so that I have it and if we get it out and fluid drains, it'll drain to the full level, if no fluid drains, we can top it off and put in a new plug.

I'm the interim, how much fluid would you put in, 3.5 quarts? Any issue with it being a little overfilled (if 3.5 does over fill it) or will it simply fly out the VSS?

Thanks!!

 

Haven't paid any attention to my F250.. but plan on doing so this week. On my F150, it's all 3/8 female ratchet drives.

I definitely suggest the rounded off bolt extractors.

There's technically 3 kinds to choose from (at local stores, I know)

Harbor Freight set. I've used them, work great.

Craftsman Low Profile set. I've used these when the HF set is too long.

And the new cheapie Craftsman socket and wrenches that are used for like 10 different fasteners.

If you're not sure, I definitely suggest getting the HF set or the Craftsman low profile set.. as I know they work great. I think I like the bite on the craftsman set better.

Good luck!

 

Thanks. Anyone happen to know the size of that bolt or a link to where I can order s new one?

 

hammer on one of the rounded bolt extractors on, crank it down and worry about it next time... joking.. would do it in a pinch though. Because I didn't have o-rings for my fuel filter once.. I used JB-weld for the next 3 or 4 fuel filters.

I'd try the autoparts store first and then the junkyard (i'd leave the junk one in out of courtesy). Or, call a shop that works differentials, they probably have a spare. And would love a potential future customer.

I would hate to have to wait a few days for something so simple.

 

IIRC it takes 3.5 quarts exact before it starts coming out fill plug.

 

Thanks, I'll fill with 3.5 and run with that.....tackle getting that plug out later if needed.

 

Get an engine drain plug and a corresponding nut.

Drill a hole in the cover at the same height as the stock full plug in the housing and weld the nut to the cover.

 

I bought a new aluminum G2 diff cover which comes with new bolts for about $120 or so. It also comes with a drain port, so future diff fluid changes won't require removal of the cover. I also put a reusable LubeLocker gasket on to avoid use of that sticky RTV that is so fun to scrape off and wait-to-cure when putting on.

 

Must be just me but I don't have an issue removing the OEM cover or and allowing the gear oil to drain into a pan. Lets me see what might be going on inside, if anything.

I quit using RTV years ago. I use Detroit Diesel Red anerobic sealant, no curing needed. Apply and assemble. Problem is, you may not be able to buy it retail.

I think the OP was referring to his front pig, not the rear.

 

Indeed it is the rear differential working with but the front and rear are similar.

It's all together and no leaks so the Mobil 1 oil ought to hold us over for a good while. I'm thinking of just welding in a 3/8 and getting the plug out once I find a replacement. I don't wanna pull one from a junk yard rear and end up ruining it so I'll find one elsewhere

 

I deal with stripped drain/fill plugs on a daily basis at work. I've had the best luck with welding a nut to the plug, give it a quick blast of shop air directly to the nut to cool it. Doing this will slightly shrink the plug and it will zip right out. I've done this probably hundreds of times, it has not had any negative effects on the surrounding cast iron. A replacement plug can be found in the plumbing department of any hardware store or home center, it's a 3/8" NPT.

 

That is the best advice so far.....