While waiting for RTV to dry I decided to change the brakes because it pulled heavily to one side the other day while braking. I got my new brakes in and opened the drum and compared the new to the old (pic) and they do not look worn enough to cause problems. I guess it cannot hurt to go ahead and change them, but I wanted to get y'alls opinion. Not sure when they were replaced last. My master cylinder also had some leaks where the cap was not sealing completely so I will replace that seal and see if that makes a difference as well.

 

Those brakes are nearly new, I would leave them be.

 

Replacing pads/shoes is never a bad thing. Linings can become "glazed", maybe more on one side than the other causing "pull" even though they may be wearing evenly. Resurfacing the rotors/drums when doing brakes is also a wise idea if they are within tolerances to be machined.

 

With riveted shoes, you need to look at the depth before hitting the rivets ... It does look like the lower half is getting kinda thin.

Although those are solid concrete blocks/bricks (safer then grey blocks), it is wise not to use non reinforced concrete blocks/bricks to support a vehicle.
Sharp edges, corners, bolts, impacts will break them as well.

Don't wanna hear about no fellow FTR'er getting crunched ... Sorry!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Very true...jack stands can be had relatively cheap. Good catch Festus.

 

True on the blocks but jack stands don't work any better on dirt & grass.


As for the pulling you are only looking at the rear and just 1 side?
You need to check both front & rear axles and both sides.
Also pull back the rubbers on the wheel cly. to see if they are starting to leak. Also a wheel cly. can rust up and not work as it should.
When ever you get a new to you car/truck it is best to just replace everything so you know it is good for the first test drive.
Don't forget the rubber hoses, 2 for the front wheels and 1 from frame to axle. They can look brand new on the out side and be bad on the inside.
Dave ----

 

And since I see them blocks setting on soft ground, which is actually a plus with concrete blocks, it is a failure with jack stands!

With jack stands on soft ground or even asphalt get some chunks of pressure treated 2x12 (or bigger if needed) and put them under the jack stands!

Or plate the base of the jack stands with at least 3/16" plate ... Wider the better to a point!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Sorry, I assumed that common sense would prevail in that one would not place jack stands in dirt, grass, gravel, etc. without a proper footing. I use 1 3/4" thick, 16"X16" steel plates under mine on a #57 stone level driveway. I have never used concrete blocks, solid or otherwise for anything other than building.

 

Just to be clear, I wasn't knocking anything you said ...

16"x16"x1-3/4" Steel ...
Heck I doubt I could even pick them up!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

It's very difficult for a problem in the rear brakes to cause pulling in the front. I would be looking at the front brakes more than the rear. A pickup is just too light in the rearend for it to have much affect on the steering in the front. A rear wheel will tend to lock up before it causes any pulling issues in the front.

 

Thanks. I will check both sides, but this side looks fine. It looks like no leaks and I gave them a good cleaning. I might wok on the emergency brake though. It currently does not engage. The front brake pads are coming in sometime and I will check them. I have concrete blocks with the jack still underneath it. I know that is still not sufficient though and will soon be upgrading to jack stands.

 

Good thinking using the third leg ... (the jack)
It may not stop it, but it may give you enough time to get out of the way!

I'm paranoid of concrete blocks because I have been the direct cause of a car falling on my best friend, fortunately he was unhurt.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

I did not check the front brakes yet or replaced the master cylinder seal, but when driving today I slammed on the brakes o test and they slowed well with screeching (not like race car braking to anything, but pretty well. Not like they need replacing). It did not pull to one side or the other (though I did feel a little shimmy. Not sure what that is due to). I think since the tie rods were so worn it was pulling while braking. The tie rod was so loose once I removed it, it just fell to one side. Any more wear and it would have fallen out of the joint. Needless to say steering is better.

 

If you have a pull when braking it will be in the front, you wont feel a pull in the rear.

If you hit the brakes and it pulls to the left it can mean one of two things. Either the left is grabbing more or the right is not working at all. Just an example.

As far as the thickness of the shoes goes, with riveted shoes I always follow the view that when its almost the thickness of the backing plate the shoes are riveted to then they are ready for replacement.

 

A shimmying/bouncing/shaking in the front when braking can be warped rotors; I wouldn't worry about that right now, you've got plenty of other problems to keep you busy.