Well, I recently purchased a diesel truck... It's a 99 F350 Powerstroke, and it won't pass the state emissions test.. My mechanic said it was due to my "single/one shot racing" injectors.. It has a edge evolution performance chip, and the emissions shop said its definatly not the tuner, but the injectors. I'm stuck now trying to figure out what to do.. New injectors were priced at 4k, and I would rather not spend that when I already have better injectors... Is there any fuel additives or any way around emissions? Any possibilities I could do? Any advice is appreciated! Thanks - Matt
Emissions records said the opacity was to high around 50mph..

 

A.) Edge Evolution is not a "chip". It is a programmer.
B.) It is highly unlikely that an Edge Evolution is tuned correctly for single shot injectors in a SuperDuty. Edge products are off-the-shelf programmers meant for mostly stock trucks; and definitely stock split-shot injectors.

How do you know you have single shot performance injectors?
Note that single shot injectors in a '99 + SuperDuty are considered performance upgrades, but unless they are very large capacity , they are not "racing" injectors. It is perfectly acceptable to use them in mild daily driven trucks. If the shop you went is just making a blanket statement that single shots are for racing, and that they are your emissions problem, then run away from that shop. They clearly are not skilled or knowledgeable in repair/maintenance of a 7.3L Powerstroke.

If you do indeed have aftermarket single shot injectors, then you will need custom tuning. For that there are several options. You can send your PCM out to have a single tune burned on it, but the most popular option is to get a chip ( either Dp Tuner or the more popular PHP Hydra) along with a number of custom tunes that you can switch between. Dp is a "closed" system, where you can only get tunes from them. The Hydra is more "open", with numerous tuners able to write tunes for it. 2 of the more popular tuners seem to be Power Hungry Performance ( the maker of the Hydra) and GearHead.

Most, if not all, tuners can write you a "low fuel" / "clean" tune to help pass emissions, along with multiple levels of performance tunes.

EDIT: I forgot to add, any shop trying to charge you 4K for a set of stock injectors is a major scumbag rip-off. Run away fast.

 

It sounds like you need a shop that does a lot of work on 7.3's and has experience working with DP or PHP. The shop will have to find out what injector is in the truck. The tuning sets up the computerized fuel files based on the type of injector and the amount of fuel that is injected at each power stroke. The tuning adjusts the high pressure oil duration and pressure going to the HUEI injectors as well as the injection timing. The injection fuel pressure is multiplied from a low pressure in the injector into a high pressure pulse by the intensifier piston pounding the fuel into the combustion chamber. Over 20,000 psi is possible with this system.

Bottom line--very complicated system, but there are guys who know how to make your truck run well. Do some research. A rich running diesel must be made to run right or it's length of life can be affected.

 

Assuming you are dealing with California smog check. The opacity is too much smoke and it's likely due to the tune, but that's not the only possible cause. Could be as simple as leaky up pipes, for example.

No way for the tech to know what kind of injectors are in there. Maybe not a bad guess that by golly something is hopped up in the engine room, but knowing which injectors? Nah. And you're right, no sense at all in replacing the injectors. Do you know of any other modifications to the truck?

Going back to stock tune will help with the smoke. And if it runs like crap then maybe you really do have single shots.

So the only reason they gave for fail is the opacity, right?

And FWIW it is the sellers' responsibility to smog it before the sale.

 

Another couple of devices that can cause these problems other than tune is the ICP (injection control pressure sensor) and the IPR (injection pressure regulator). The map sensor, the oil temp sensor, are possibilities too. You need a technician that can troubleshoot a 7.3.

 

I have stock sticks with a chip. I don't disconnect it (used to and got tired of it) and run it in the STOCK setting and it passes CA emissions testing every time. Honestly, it would pass in any setting except 100 HP Race.

I agree with the others that it's probably not the single shots. I plan to go single shots after this and should have no problem with the testing and good tunes.

I have run into it quite a bit where somebody gives me "advice" because they know the 7.3, but they really don't (if I had a nickel for every time I heard "it's a bad injector"...). Find someone who knows the 7.3 and let them diagnose it. There's only two places out here that I would go to and trust them to open the hood: one is a commercial truck shop and the other is a local shop that does a lot of work on school buses for the area (there are fleets of T444Es around here). It seems like the 7.3 is a lost art since they stopped selling it in late 2002 in the US.

When you get it sorted out, don't go back to that first shop! Personally, after a quote of $4K for sticks I'd never go back. Find someone else who is familiar with the diesel rules.

 

His profile lists CO as home state.

 

Same here in Colorado. Seller is responsible for smog check at time of sale and the emissions test is for opacity.

 

My truck is lifted 6inches sitting on 35"s.. The emissions "manager" said large tires can throw off the testing. I don't know to much internally about the truck. It has 346k miles, but it had a rebuild at 227k miles. The guy I bought it from had it passed down from his father who passed away a couple years ago, so he didn't know anything about it. The tuner is always in stock mode, and all the gauges read correct temps. I have a cold air intake aswell. I recently did an oil change, cabin filter change, fuel filter, and throughly cleaned the air filter trying to pass, but somehow it made the opacity greater... (The emissions shop said it was due to everything being cleaned, and functioning properly).. But weird.. I know when I stomp on it (in stock mode) I'm pushing about 15-21 psi of boost, which I thought was high for the truck. It runs perfectly fine, idles good, and doesn't have any lag or hesitation. I'm just stuck, there are no diesel shops that specialize in 7.3s in my area and nobody that seems so want to put forth the effort to find a solution.

 

Register you vehicle where there are no emissions testing, as an example, rural Nevada or South Dakota. Your location might be helpful in suggestions from FTE members. South Dakota registration is available without even taking your truck there to register...it can all be done by mail.

 

The tires may actually be an issue. If your speedometer wasn't re-calibrated properly for the larger tires, you will be travelling faster then the truck (pcm/trans) "thinks" you are. A larger diameter tire will travel a greater straight line distance in a single rotation, then a smaller tire. So, fueling tables and trans shift points can all be altered. In addition, you are now throwing in the variable of the emissions dyno rollers. You are driving them much faster, for a given engine rpm, then a stock tire size. So, if they are regulating the speed during testing based on the dyno's speed reading ( which is what I've always seen - as opposed to using the vehicles speedo), then your truck is being tested at a lower engine rpm and higher "load" then an identical truck with stock size tires.
All of these variables can definitely be causing some wacky emissions results.

Of course, you may also have legitimate performance/maintenance issue that need to be addressed as well. These things should be found an fixed anyway, regardless of need to pass a test or not.

If you can't find a good diesel shop, you'll need to make the time to educate yourself, and buy the required diagnostic tools. There is tons of info available on here, and other forums. Google will open a whole world of knowledge. Just be prepared to spend many, many hours reading, searching, and learning. You will absolutely need a good quality scan tool ( pro level tool such as Snap-On,etc..) or other diagnostic software ( such as AutoEnginuity - no longer in favor around here, ForScan, or TorquePro - Android app that is very popular). You will need a good assortment of basic hand tools, as well as some specialized and/or larger then normal size tools as well.

If you can't find a good shop, and can't or won't invest the time and money into learning how to maintain it yourself, then a 7.3L powerstroke is not for you. You would be better off selling it while its still in reasonably good shape, and buying a more common and easily maintained gas powered truck (such as another SuperDuty with a V10)

At this point in their "lifecycle", given their advancing age and increasing need for complex diagnostics and maintenance, I don't think a 7.3L is really for a casual owner anymore. By that , I mean the guy who doesn't know a driveshaft from a crankshaft, and just wants to drive it without ever thinking about it. At this point, I think a 7.3L vehicle needs an owner who either has deep pockets or is an enthusiast with the desire and ability to do a lot of work on their vehicle.

 

Welp I think I figured out my problem.. Overall I know quite a bit about diesels for being a new owner, I've always owned gasser Ford trucks. I don't mind spending money on it because the truck is in immaculate shape, runs like a champ, and has always been one of my dream trucks. (Other than spending money stock injectors kind of makes me cringe).. I found a guy that has rebuilt many 7.3s and knows just about every bolt and cranny on the engine, and he briefly looked over my truck. I was notified by him that I have an aftermarket larger turbo, (forgot the mm size).. I as well have a horrible exhaust leak that might be the candidate for the problem. I found out that I can register it as a farm truck, and not have any of the emissions hassle.. I was told that the larger turbo and injectors can take a toll on my engine fairly quickly so I might try to put a stock turbo in, and replace the injectors this weekend. I was also told that the Edge Evolution "chip" could be messing things up as well, so I don't know if I should take it out and have it flashed, or leave it. All in all, I want my truck to be as stock as possible, and last the longest life it could. I don't drive it hard, race it, or tow more than a small flatbed trailer for dirtbikes, so I don't need all that power. Should I even mess with the turbo? Should I mess with the Injectors? I can now register it, I just want it to preform the best it can while lasting the longest.

 

DO NOT I REPEAT DO NOT SELL YOUR 7.3 FOR A GAS POWERED TRUCK!!!! With the kind of miles on your truck it would likely have at least 2 maybe even 3 gas motors by now and will get horrible fuel mileage with oversized tires, and if you tow at all you will not be happy with a gas rig. (Unless you like to go really slow up big hills when towing-then I guess it's ok)

 

Btw......thinking about your "boost" comment of 15-21psi.......that's in the normal range for that truck. If I'm not mistaken (which is possible) I think FORD throws you an engine light at 22-23 psi with that truck. My 02 7.3 w/DP Tuner on 140 setting would constantly pull a light and at emissions test time (keep in mind I'm in Cali) I would leave it on the same setting and drive if for X amount of key cycles/and or miles to reset the parameters without throwing an engine light to pass the test! Fun fun!

 

If it truly has all this performance stuff, it's immaculate, and you want something simpler to own - wouldn't it be cheaper to sell it and get a stock 7.3L with fewer miles?

If you can turn a wrench and you have the time, we can walk you through the process of fixing just about everything on the truck (including getting a positive ID on those injectors). I have a link in my signature for OBDII tools that are so inexpensive, they really should be part of owning a vehicle in today's world.

If the truck idles smooth and you have that aftermarket tuner, then the injectors are not single-shots. Given that boost (probably with a red line mod), those are stock injectors. If the turbo exceeds 30 PSI, then it's time to scrutinize the turbo. Until then, save some money and just fix the exhaust leak. You are not pushing the truck hard with what you describe.

At this stage in the truck's life, it really needs OBDII tools/gauges. We would have asked you what a few readings were, and we might have spotted the leak. Or... maybe a code would have popped, informing you of an exhaust backpressure issue. Gauges are helpful too. EGTs would tell you if you are hurting the engine with the exhaust leak, and a fuel pressure gauge is very useful at this age. Fuel delivery problems are not uncommon, and they can really mess with the emissions.

For much less than the price of a set of reman injectors (which it doesn't sound like you need), you could really gear up the cab with information collection devices - allowing you to control your own destiny.