Hey guys i was hit by a dump truck last week and my daily driven IDIT was totalled, i am looking at using my 1996 powerstroke for now and would like to drop a new crate motor in it. It has 280k, it runs great but i found the source of the exhaust leak is a broken exhaust bolt in the head, it also looks like there might be a leak from the oil cooler tube, i just pressure washed everything clean. Anyway, i don't really have the extra time to pull an engine, drill bolts out, assemble a long block etc, i'd rather just get one ready to drop in and swap it out one weekend.

Who is a reputable builder that i could get one from with a warranty?

Also, can i support the transmission in this truck and pull the motor without pulling the transfercase and transmission?

 

See replies above

 

Thanks!

I actually have a studded 7.3L IDIT sitting at a machine shop now that was waiting to go in my daily IDI i really just didnt feel like have to assemble another motor after everything that's happened. The engine also has a rusty oil pan. It doesnt seem to be leaking, but the dip stick part which i am sure i can get to seal with RTV. It was one of those things where i'll probable be 10+ hours into fixing and repairing all that and i could just drop a new engine in.

If i keep the engine in i plan on removing both manifolds and up pipes since the manifolds look like they are near their service life, if the turbo is coming off then id replace it anyway with whatever upgraded one you guys would recommend. I just spent a good bit on a BW S257X for my IDIT that wont go on it. I do have a water/AIR intercooler i plan on swapping over from my truck when i buy it back.

 

I ended up ordering just the driver side manifold, some stainless bolts, a gasket, and a new oil cooler tube and o-rings. I dont need to actually remove the up pipe to replace the manifold do i?

I also ordered this interesting set of guides and bits, i have some left handed drill bits somewhere but i am going to try to weld a nut to any broken studs. I did order a stud extractor too. I plan on cutting all of the bolts and extracting that way, is that the preffered method? Or can i just demolish the manifold with an air chisel since i have a new one? i plan on using nickel neverseize on all the new hardware and using a thread chaser for all of the holes

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261659054019?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

We just did the pass side which is easier IMO because the bolts are on top but cutting the bolts with a sawzall is the best way IMO. All 8 turned out by themselves after that. Presoak with PB if you can. You might also need the two bolts to rebolt the up pipe.

 

The bolts on the up pipes are just about gone on both sides I figure I'll have to drill then out on the driver side. Thinking about it all none of the up pipes or passenger side manifold are leaking so I'm not going to touch them until they start to.

I pressure washed everything real good a week ago, then pre soaked twice with Kroil, then pressure washed up real close on every bolt head and thread I could get as close as possible, let it dry, then soaked them in pb, then I'll keep spraying everything down in Kroil each day before I get to it. I'm spraying all the bolts even the turbo just incase something happens and I gotta try to take them off too.

The two bolts for the up pipe are 5/16 I believe I may get them from the local hardware store in grade 8 or stainless.

I removed the ebp line, bracket and sensor today and found it all completely clogged. Got sensor cleaned but ordered another, have esco making a new hard line and I welded a new fitting in the bracket since I wasn't happy how dirty it was after cleaning

 

I ordered these for the up pipes
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015P...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ended up buying a new ebps tube and the connection fitting. Mine was all clogged too.

 

Did you use the Dorman manifold? I saw it came with nuts and a gasket were they 8mm nuts?

 

I did buy the Dorman one from summit racing. I didn't use the nuts because we had other but yes they were 8mm, 1.25 pitch I think for the bolts I used. Got the stainless steel manifold from eBay. Worked out good

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/131261599742?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmtid%253D1588%2526kwid%253D1%2526crlp%253D53601919689_324272%2526itemid%253D131261599742%2526targetid%253D173539366329%2526rpc%253D0.28%2526rpc_upld_id%253D74877%2526device%253Dm%2526mpre%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fulk%25252Fitm%25252Flike%25252F131261599742%25253Flpid%25253D82%252526chn%25253Dps%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D1018248%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D239125209%2526adgroupid%253D14978428809%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-173539366329%2526gclid%253DCOyw56TlxM4CFUUmhgodeW8Ebw%2526srcrot%253D711-117182-37290-0%2526rvr_id%253D1077708585946&ul_noapp=true

 

Those are the exact ones I ordered. Seemed like a good deal. I plan on brass wire wheeling head then painting all surfaces with nickel never seize. I've had good luck with doing that on slip joints, flange surfaces, hubs, u joints, and socket connections. it seems to keep the metal from rust/pitting by keeping moisture off of the metal surface.