I'll look into that ACT/IAT, I thought it was a MAF thing but I was wrong apparently. Still sure that one isn't the cause since it won't prevent the engine from running, I think I'll replace it anyway since it's around $8. What do the TAD/TAB solenoids do? I'll research those. I saw them today, near the new coil. Also, thanks for the link, I'll have a look at it.

 

Did it have just 2?

If 3, the third could be bad without showing leakage

The TAB/TAD solenoids just direct air from the thermactor pump to where it will be injected in the heads/exhaust system.

They might be/cause a vac leak, but won't cause a no start/no spark situation.

 

Encho,the tab tad was for the codes I was throwing,your original post was for hunting a miss etc. Perhaps your truck is MAF,where I use speed density.Look over the info for the NO START, the basics as fuel spark .Keep in mind , most problems for a no start would be ignition/ timing / fuel problems.Good luck TR

 

Yep, it only had 2 caps



Wondering if I killed anything removing/soldering the new ones in. Oh well, I'll just keep fixing stuff anyway.

 

Encho, I highly doubt that, my caps leads were corroded at the board, Remember your board was removed with no power on it .In working with electronics just make sure the rear of board (soder side)you do not cross components.TR

 

I meant removing the caps, I'm not very proficient with working on electronics (first time ever messing with a board this way) and it was quite a struggle to have those solders come off. Still think the ECM is just fine, haven't tested for codes again but when I turned the start shorting the starter solenoid from the bay (trying to set the engine on 10º BTDC) I could hear the fuel rails receiving fuel every time I made the engine turn.

 

Show us a pic of the backside of the board and we can probably rule out cross soldering

 

Oh no, that didn't happen, 100% sure, no pics but I'm sure of that at least. And I have no pictures, the ECM is back on the truck.

 

Still unable to run the engine. Maybe I'm setting the timing wrong... I made a tape mark on what appears to be 10°BTC on the harmonic balancer (just in the middle of the marks, please see the picture and confirm)


Then turned the engine until the tape mark coincided with the engine pointer



Removed #1 sparkplug (passenger side front) and checked the piston was near the top (the screwdriver went in the sparkplug hole like 1 1/2in)



Then seated the new distributor like shown with the old style ICM mount plate at 45°, with the rotor starting to make contact with position #1 on the cap, which coincides with the bolt in the cup (the rotor turns CCW, right?)



I reinstalled the plug & wire, checked everything was connected. The problem is whenever I try starting the engine it will just turn, no combustion (no-start condition). What am I missing? Tried 2 new distributors and ICMs, and have a fresh battery. Any ideas?. Am I setting something wrong?.

 

Encho: Please accept my apologies (I am slammed right now at work and have not read the thread). My 1995 5.8L would only run with the SPOUT jumper out, so I replaced the capacitors (badly) in my PCM and it would still not run except with SPOUT jumper out. And then, because I thought I screwed the capicitor replacement up, I bought the correct reman computer and it was the same (so I likely did not screw up the PCM when replacing the caps).

Last week the engine stopped when driving so now I have a total failure likely of a component instead of wiring (I suspect TFI on distributor or ICM on fender).

Here is a methodical way to check for spark all the way back to the PCM:

Part 1 -How to Troubleshoot a No Start (Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L).

See also:

Part 1 -Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L Index of Articles

(I am going to buy this guy a beer...)

And attached is a TSB re a potential wiring problem.

 

Thanks for the info Tim, I'm having a look at it right now.

Can anyone confirm if the distributor replacement-setting procedure I described above is correct? Am I doing anything wrong in any of the steps/images listed? Is the mark on the harmonic balancer correct?.

 

I'm just going out on a limb here, so bear with me...

On my distributor, on the inside of the lower cap, there is a raised "1" which is I think equal to where you have a little mark in your picture.

When I drop my distributor in the hole, I line it up almost inch, to inch & a
half to the left of where your rotor is with the balancer on TDC & the rotor (as the dirtibutor gear "meshes" with the cam gear & rotates clockwise) drops dead on the "1" mark.

Then I start it & set it to 10* BTDC with a light.

 

Yeah David, that's what I did too, all those pics were taken with the parts pointing at #1, except the first one that just shows the engraved marks and the tape mark. I did turn the rotor to the left before seating the distributor in, and the rotor turned to the #1 spot. I'm thinking I might be wrong about something and the rotor might need to be adjusted some more, yet I think being relatively close to the spot the engine should be trying to start at least.

 

That just looks way advanced too me. May not be the case. May be something else.

I just like to start with it dead on the 1 @ TDC.

Recently chased a no start condition (except with SPOUT out) with a FTE chapter member and replaced everything & nothing worked till changing out ECT sensor.

 

The ECT has been replaced already, I might try another one since I'm already throwing cash at the truck as is... But this is a no-start SPOUT in or out. And when you say you start at TDC, you use the 0º mark on the harmonic balancer? For Broncos the setting point should be 10º BTC so that's what I used, but I'm willing to try anything.