Looking for running IDIT to buy
#2
Pictures, please. I've never heard of that happening on an IDI motor before!
As far as you are concerned, if you can't find an IDIT motor, you should be able to just use a standard 7.3; your turbo components will bolt right up, and realistically, it's just fine motor wise. The only real changes to the IDIT blocks were in the connecting rod pin diameters... and that's not the weak point(the rods themselves will bend and break at the 450-ish WHP level).
As far as you are concerned, if you can't find an IDIT motor, you should be able to just use a standard 7.3; your turbo components will bolt right up, and realistically, it's just fine motor wise. The only real changes to the IDIT blocks were in the connecting rod pin diameters... and that's not the weak point(the rods themselves will bend and break at the 450-ish WHP level).
#3
Well I haven't got it out of the truck yet. I bought the truck not running due to the DMF coming apart. Thinking that was the only big problem with the truck I only paid $1500 for it. Long story short. Didn't the SMF conversion, starter, batteries, injectors, oil change and a few other things. I got it to fire off and idle (very rough and shaking bad) the fan stopped turning. That's when I noticed the dampener had come apart and was sitting in the frame rail lol. So it's either the crank or a rod. But no metal shavings on the drain plug when I drained the oil.
#4
Well I haven't got it out of the truck yet. I bought the truck not running due to the DMF coming apart. Thinking that was the only big problem with the truck I only paid $1500 for it. Long story short. Didn't the SMF conversion, starter, batteries, injectors, oil change and a few other things. I got it to fire off and idle (very rough and shaking bad) the fan stopped turning. That's when I noticed the dampener had come apart and was sitting in the frame rail lol. So it's either the crank or a rod. But no metal shavings on the drain plug when I drained the oil.
As far as idle vibrations go, remember that timing can massively affect this. And you replaced the injectors with new ones which are higher pressure than the (warn) old ones; this should result in retarded timing. Advancing the timing a bit might well clear up some of the issues.
Also, where did you get the injectors? Are they truly new(hard to come by these days) or "remanufactured" ones which were just cleaned up, with worn nozzles? Rebuilt injectors can easily be sketchy and unbalanced right from the get-go, and just get worse as time goes on.
#5
The injectors are matching batch number BWD from oreilys. The reason I changed them out was when I first started working on getting the engine running it had a loud knock inside the block, violent shake, would not idle, and was blowing back thru the intake on one cylinder. I was hoping it was just a couple stuck injectors. After priming the fuel system and got it to fire off right away it was holding a good idle but the knock was getting worse. That's when the collar on the dampener cracked and the bolt came out with it. Still idling the knock did not change.
#7
I'm thinking you still have a rebuildable core here, and it may not be as bad as it might seem. I can't tell you what's wrong, but you might well have some sticky lifters and/or valves here; I know that you can have pistons hitting valves if they stick(the exhaust valve to piston clearance gets as small as .030 at one point; it's pretty easy to get piston-to-valve contact).
I'd pull it and start disassembly; might well be able to check and replace the bearings, possibly rebuild the heads, maby rings, and have a plenty good engine.
I'd pull it and start disassembly; might well be able to check and replace the bearings, possibly rebuild the heads, maby rings, and have a plenty good engine.
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