Thanks for the description, yes it makes sense.

So let me just rehash the whole process so it fully makes sense to me.

I disconnect the battery and wait at least a half an hour. I pop out the two covers on the side of the steering wheel to expose the two bolts that hold in the airbag. Remove them and unplug both connectors, then remove the airbag from the steering wheel. At that point I loosen those two torx screws and remove them. I then pull everything apart and it will look like the four separate pieces that are shown in that second picture.

Just to clarify, my truck is an '03, will it look like the one that Sean posted?

One more thing, I was paranoid already, but Sean's post about blowing up his airbag is making me a bit nervous. Once that airbag has "deactivated", is there any chance that it can blow up?

 

Your safe.
To blow the airbag you have to remove the shorting bar that is part of
the airbag plug. That bar drops into place anytime you unplug the connector.
I would also after that have to apply 12V to the pair of wires from the airbag.

The one thing that would be a good idea is to make sure that you don't
have things on that make static electricity. Wool and nylon are two things
to not have one. Cotten is very safe.

But really you should be quite safe.

 

Just saw this video:


You guys are great, exactly as described, but nice for me to see. Confidence is building and I think I'm just going to order that Dorman part that HearseDriver linked earlier. The price is the best I can find and it gives me the satisfaction of using a new part.

One last thing, what exactly causes these to go bad? Asking because I thought the outer cover was somehow pushing down on the contact, but there has to be something that happens to the contact itself?

 

Sean,
Heck yes! I would love to see a video of you setting off your old air bag. Especially if you could show it in normal speed then again in slow motion.

CNC,
The Dorman video is EXACTLY what my 06 horn/air bag assembly looks like. I'm pretty sure that your 03 would be the exact same also since they take the exact same horn switch or bladder or what ever it's called.

Also after you disconnect the positive cable just ground (touch) it to any part of the body of your truck - that will discharge any residual voltage without causing any ill effects.

I'm not exactly sure why these horn bladders go bad. I know I've read why but I can't remember why though it does have to do with how they're made - just a bad design on Fords part. But my truck does have 146,000 miles on it.

 

Thanks, I'm going to order the part tomorrow morning. When you say touch the positive cable to the body, should I remove the negative side as well? Touch the positive cable on anything metal, like the fender for example?

And I agree, I'd like to see Sean's video is regular speed, then slo motion.

Thanks again guys, I ask a lot of questions, I appreciate the help and patience.

I'll update this thread after I complete the job.

 

CNC,
I would just remove the positive cable and leave the negative cable on and just touch the positive cable to any metal part of the truck. Radiator support, inside of fender etc. BUT if you want to be SUPER CAREFUL you can disconnect the negative cable FIRST - this way when removing your negative cable IF your wrench touches any part of your truck it won't arc which would happen if removing the positive cable first. Now you can remove the positive cable and if your wrench slips and grounds the positive to the chassis nothing will happen since the negative cable has been removed. Still touch the positive cable to metal to discharge any residual voltage.

Don't worry about the questions - that's how you learn. We ALL had to learn at some point and believe me I sure made my share of mistakes along the way. It's much better to ask and be 100% sure of yourself. With knowledge and confidence you'll be much better informed to do the job correctly. Believe me once you get started you'll be amazed how simple it really is and if you have questions along the way you have a support group to guide you through it.

 

[QUOTE=Yahiko;16488635]Nice job.

BTW I now have an air bag without a working horn and was thinking about a video on blowing it up.
What do you think? It's really not somehting that I want sitting in the garage for a long time.
Iv'e done a few of em, just remember that the backside gets hot when it goes off (made that mistake once haha). I use an extension cord and a dewalt battery. Just strip the wires to the bag, put them in the female side of ext cord step away with the male end and your battery. Next just hit the male end to the bat and no more air bag. Just post the video.

 

Thank you HearseDriver.

Ordering the part tomorrow and will update after I install it.

 

CNC,
Sounds great! Let us know how it goes.

 

Hi Guys: Everything went well and it was rather easy. Thanks for the support and guidance. Everything went together well and hopefully that was the issue. Time will tell. Thanks again.

 

CNC,
Glad we were able to help and everything turned out well for you and an easy fix. Believe me I've sure asked my share of questions and everyone here is always willing to take the time to help. That's what I love about this site the people here are the greatest.

 

I love this place as well.

 

the horn sticking happens every few years for me. it is the switch pad being crushed.
Mostly by me trying to push the steering wheel through the dashboard, when i need to remind the driving professional that just pulled in front of an 8000lb truck doing 70, that
I'm about to run over their prius.
If you take the switch pad out, and return the pad assemby to it's original shape, it works again.

 

ah the glorious Prius....got to love them, I like the slow drivers that hog the middle lane or left lane and you want to pass, and the high beams don't give them the hint.......guess I better install some holy horns on my beast...

 

See, this stuff doesn't just happen in NJ, LOL.

I was curious what went bad with the switch. I took my assembly apart and everything was clean. There is a slight depression on my outer horn cover, right on the emblem, but from underneath, it wasn't noticeable.

I'm hoping it's fixed and done. I was having the issue in the cold weather, so it'll be a while until I really know for sure. Nothing worse than being woken up in the middle of the night to a blaring horn. Well, maybe my neighbor telling me my horn was going off for hours and hours while I was on vacation.