I used a new, not reman, water pump from NAPA and it is working well after a couple years.
As stated above, I replaced my timing set and did all the gaskets at the same time. I also replaced the oil pump.
You could try just replacing the water pump. I have a buddy that did it on his mud truck and had no issues.YMMV.

 

OK, so here is what I think I need:

Waterpump:

Timing set: (Cloyes) but how high up the ladder?
CLOYES C3079 single keyway (Includes: Cam, Crank, Chain) vs CLOYES 93122 3 Keyway (Crank Sprocket; Factory Top Dead Center Timing; Incl. Cam Sprocket; Original True Roller Timing Set; Roller Chain; Standard Center Distance)

Oil pump (do I need high volume?)

TFI module

Needed seals/gaskets

The different parts are confusing on which I need, if I contact rockauto, will they be able to tell me which I should get?

 

You don't need an oil pump at all, but if you feel like replacing (you're that deep type situation) a normal pump is all you need. Honestly I wouldn't bother replacing it. I only did because it was a junk yard motor and it wasn't in the truck yet.
That timing set is fine. The stock one is double roller as well. The timing on the EFI engines isn't retarded like the 70's smogger motors.
For the gasket set use VICTOR REINZ JV865. It has both gaskets needed for the timing cover. All the other kits only give you one. I found that out after buying a different kit and had to make a gasket.

 

Which timing set, the single keyway or 3-keyway?:
CLOYES C3079 single keyway (Includes: Cam, Crank, Chain) $34.79

or...

CLOYES 93122 3 Keyway (Crank Sprocket; Factory Top Dead Center Timing; Incl. Cam Sprocket; Original True Roller Timing Set; Roller Chain; Standard Center Distance) $124.99

There are about 5 or so Cloyes timing sets and the prices are all over the place... I'm assuming that quality is relative to price, and of course the 3 keyway sets would be more.



Hm... and I'm still going to have to deal with the frozen distributor if I replace the timing set... have to think this one through.. the price of the parts is not bad, but I don't have a garage and doing this on an unpaved driveway is not good... the cost of labor will be the killer.

 

The first one with the single key way. The other is if you want to advance/retard your timing, and you don't want to.
It depends on how bad your water pump is leaking really.

 

No you do not have to remove the distributor or turn it to replace the timing chain.
A new timing chain will put it back to factory ignition timing if you do not move the distributor. That is if nobody has ever timed it after the factory.
You will also have clear shot at replacing the TFI with the front cover off.

 

Ok... bought new Motorcraft TFI module and a TFI relocation kit which was less than impressive. The heatsink is what I needed so, I got good use of that.

I took apart existing engine wire harness, moved/added needed wiring and then put it all back together with new split wire loom... and... LOTS of tape.
I took my time and made sure I did a clean job, all splices soldered, then heat shrink with folded tail over soldered connection, with overall heat shrink covering.

After finishing putting it together today, I took it out for a drive.
97 degree temperature today close to temperature as the last day I drove the truck (last day driven, couldn't drive it more than 10-12 minutes before 'surging' then going completely dead).

I also cut off the 'horns' in the air intake tubing.
Drove truck around for about 25 minutes, wife wanted to go to store, so during test run I drove to the store, parked in parking lot, stayed in the truck with it running while she shopped for about another 25 minutes.
I thought this would be a good test.

Truck ran great. Then wife came out of store and drove home.
About a mile into the drive home, truck started to 'lose power' when going up incline or when accelerating.
It would 'pop' and engine 'surged' shaking the truck when trying to even slightly give more gas.

As long as truck was going down hill or level and I kept it at idle or very slowly accelerated, truck would limp along... but each time I tried to accelerate the symptoms returned and truck would 'surge', sputter, ect.

I took my time and finally made it home without the truck dying, which at least that part was different... before, shortly after the truck acting up, it would then die completely and would have to let sit for half hour or more before it would start.

This could still be the case, and I just got a lucky drive, or that most of the drive home was a downhill plane or level, which might have kept it from dying?

I am putting off the water pump (slow'ish leak), timing set etc. for later... would like to just get it running reliably for now

Any suggestions as to where to look next would be greatly appreciated!
Could this have anything to do with the 'Evaporative Emission System'?

 

You have a fuel problem. The popping, losing power and surging are all telling you you have a fuel problem with your fuel pressure is dropping to low.

 

The above is certainly possible, but I wouldn't rule out a failing PIP or PCM.

 

I did the KOEO self test 2 times and the KOEO 1 time and on all 3 I believe the only 'codes' I got were '11' and '33'?
I will try again tomorrow and see if I can get different codes to show.

During the first part of the KOEO self test, the engine went through a couple different stages of how it ran (rough), then when the codes started to appear, it smoothed back to normal. Is this how the test normally works?

'11' is listed as:
"System OK"

'33' is listed as:
"ALL – EGR did not open/ respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittently – EVP EVR PFE"

I video taped this so as to not miss the code flashes, but I am not seeing a way to add it to the post (385mb) unless from a 3rd party website as a url?

 

CM code 33 will not cause your problem.
You need to put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail and see what the pressure is when it starts acting up.

Continuous Memory Code 33 indicates that the EGR valve did not open with the engine stabilized and with EVR solenoid duty cycle present sometime during vehicle operation.
Possible cause:
-- Obstructed or cracked hose to EGR valve.
-- Damaged EGR valve.
-- Damaged EVR solenoid harness.

 

Where would the best place be on the fuel rail for the gauge, so as to get the best reading I am looking for?

 

There is only one place on the fuel rail to test fuel pressure.

That is at the Fuel Press. Test point in the diagram below.

/

 

Thank you so much for the great info!

Bought a fuel pressure guage today, but will have to get an extension made for it to be able to reach the windshield to be viewed while driving.

Just to check what the pressure is at idle (will test at wot when wife is available

Meter read 30 psi at idle, I then removed the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator while engine running and pressure rose to 40 psi.

Isn't the fuel psi supposed to be around 35+?

 

Those are normal readings, sounds like you have great vacuum.