75 F250 voltage regulator and starting trouble.
#1
75 F250 voltage regulator and starting trouble.
Hey everyone. I have read most all of the related posts concerning ignition issues, some are similar to the issue I'm having but this one is a little over the top So any direction of help is greatly appreciated.
I was having strange ignition problems mostly running rough however intermittent. The other day I tried to shut it off and it kept running. Switch it off, gauges (analog, no idot lights) powered down still kept running. Popped the hood went to positive side of coil, started moving the wires it shut down. I already had a new ignition switch, so I pulled the wires from the coil, but forgot to disconnect the negative cable. I pulled it the next morning before I went to work. Now I replaced the switch, and solenoid. When I connect the negative cable, the voltage regulator is clicking, the wires are live bypassing the ignition. Green/red stripe is live, and so is the two yellow one's next to it. The I slot is empty. I unplugged that harness green/red stripe by the solenoid it live there too. I now have no power to the ignition at all, nor to the gauges. I have a new regulator, and alternator. Had the old one tested, it was shot. I'm unsure weather this matters, probably does. This is early 1975. So while there is an electronic ignition harness, there. It's a breaker point style ignition, with a ballast. Where do I look first to chase the bypass? Thanks again!
I was having strange ignition problems mostly running rough however intermittent. The other day I tried to shut it off and it kept running. Switch it off, gauges (analog, no idot lights) powered down still kept running. Popped the hood went to positive side of coil, started moving the wires it shut down. I already had a new ignition switch, so I pulled the wires from the coil, but forgot to disconnect the negative cable. I pulled it the next morning before I went to work. Now I replaced the switch, and solenoid. When I connect the negative cable, the voltage regulator is clicking, the wires are live bypassing the ignition. Green/red stripe is live, and so is the two yellow one's next to it. The I slot is empty. I unplugged that harness green/red stripe by the solenoid it live there too. I now have no power to the ignition at all, nor to the gauges. I have a new regulator, and alternator. Had the old one tested, it was shot. I'm unsure weather this matters, probably does. This is early 1975. So while there is an electronic ignition harness, there. It's a breaker point style ignition, with a ballast. Where do I look first to chase the bypass? Thanks again!
#2
Welcome to FTE.
You might try posting your question in the old trucks section -- folks there are more familiar with your setup.
But, I think that you need to do some general elctrical troubleshooting. It's nearly impossible to tell from your description what's going on. It's probably best to find a good wiring diagram and start ohming out connections.
But, a few thoughts
1. When you first 'moved wires around' to kill it sounds as if the ignition switch was bad or there is a shorted wire someplace. You somehow broke a connection.
2. The voltage regulator should only work to have the generator charge the battery or not. There shouldn't be any special feed to the ignition. Do your lights etc. still work??
3.If your regulator 'clicked' -- is it the old style relay regulator? Some of those had to be 'polarized' ( I think that was the term ) so that they'd work correctly. I don't think that I've ever actually done it, but I used to read about it in 'the old days'.
4. Did somebody alter the original harness to use points? I don't know when Ford went to electronic ignition, but it was probably around that period. If you've got a one of a kind deal,I wish you well.
Good Luck,
hj
You might try posting your question in the old trucks section -- folks there are more familiar with your setup.
But, I think that you need to do some general elctrical troubleshooting. It's nearly impossible to tell from your description what's going on. It's probably best to find a good wiring diagram and start ohming out connections.
But, a few thoughts
1. When you first 'moved wires around' to kill it sounds as if the ignition switch was bad or there is a shorted wire someplace. You somehow broke a connection.
2. The voltage regulator should only work to have the generator charge the battery or not. There shouldn't be any special feed to the ignition. Do your lights etc. still work??
3.If your regulator 'clicked' -- is it the old style relay regulator? Some of those had to be 'polarized' ( I think that was the term ) so that they'd work correctly. I don't think that I've ever actually done it, but I used to read about it in 'the old days'.
4. Did somebody alter the original harness to use points? I don't know when Ford went to electronic ignition, but it was probably around that period. If you've got a one of a kind deal,I wish you well.
Good Luck,
hj
#3
Welcome to my nightmare lol.
Thanks hj. And to all. A little background on the truck. We bought it out of Washington state about 6 months ago as there really wasn't anything here locally that we would consider. If butchered gives you an idea of what was available here, plus inflated that sums it up.
Basically the truck has/had weird repairs done, if bailing wire holding some hard line brake plumbing gives you a visual. But the upside is it has fairly straight sheet with minor bumps. The guy thought we were nuts to drive it back, as it was a running project when he got it. drive it I did, 19 hrs and 8 fuel stops later we made it back. Only has one tank, in the cab.
Sorry about the rambles. Yes all the lights work. I spent most of the afternoon yesterday after work running down wires. Cleaning them off so I could match color codes up with a diagram.
The harness at the alternator, regulator and solenoid are in tact. No splices. There are 2 in the main, one for the heater blower motor (that doesn't blow) and one that has the brown for the dist. Temp sensor and oil pressure. The brown one goes into the ballast, then red white stripe out of ballast to coil. I haven't had the chance to get to the other. The electronic ignition harness appears as new. Never touched, or even plugged in. There's no sign of an ignition control box ever being present anywhere. The wiring hasn't been taped. It's wrapped with the normal black plastic. I haven't installed the new regulator yet. But I did get another new ignition switch because I'm not sure of the other one I put in. I did consider eliminating the regulator and going internal. I just don't have the time or cash for that upgrade right now. I remember when you bought Standard ignition Blue Streak parts they were made here? Now it seems almost impossible to find anything made here. I try to stay from chain stores, but even the small local guy's here are selling the same thing in a different named box.
I do appreciate all the help, and where to look. I'll be hitting it early tomorrow morning and let you all know later what happened. Thanks for the well wishes. I'll need it!
Basically the truck has/had weird repairs done, if bailing wire holding some hard line brake plumbing gives you a visual. But the upside is it has fairly straight sheet with minor bumps. The guy thought we were nuts to drive it back, as it was a running project when he got it. drive it I did, 19 hrs and 8 fuel stops later we made it back. Only has one tank, in the cab.
Sorry about the rambles. Yes all the lights work. I spent most of the afternoon yesterday after work running down wires. Cleaning them off so I could match color codes up with a diagram.
The harness at the alternator, regulator and solenoid are in tact. No splices. There are 2 in the main, one for the heater blower motor (that doesn't blow) and one that has the brown for the dist. Temp sensor and oil pressure. The brown one goes into the ballast, then red white stripe out of ballast to coil. I haven't had the chance to get to the other. The electronic ignition harness appears as new. Never touched, or even plugged in. There's no sign of an ignition control box ever being present anywhere. The wiring hasn't been taped. It's wrapped with the normal black plastic. I haven't installed the new regulator yet. But I did get another new ignition switch because I'm not sure of the other one I put in. I did consider eliminating the regulator and going internal. I just don't have the time or cash for that upgrade right now. I remember when you bought Standard ignition Blue Streak parts they were made here? Now it seems almost impossible to find anything made here. I try to stay from chain stores, but even the small local guy's here are selling the same thing in a different named box.
I do appreciate all the help, and where to look. I'll be hitting it early tomorrow morning and let you all know later what happened. Thanks for the well wishes. I'll need it!
#4
Got it fixed.
Turns out that harness I was telling you about that had been messed with for the heater blower, also had an ignition wire spiced. Red/white that goes into the ballast from the ignition switch then out to the coil.
They put a connector, wasn't tight. I unwrapped it after removing the glove box. I barely touched it and it came apart. Although I fried a new solenoid trying to figure it out. So it was in the dash. Figure I'll go ahead and pull it down and repair what they messed with.
Thank again hj your suggestions really helped!
They put a connector, wasn't tight. I unwrapped it after removing the glove box. I barely touched it and it came apart. Although I fried a new solenoid trying to figure it out. So it was in the dash. Figure I'll go ahead and pull it down and repair what they messed with.
Thank again hj your suggestions really helped!
Welcome to FTE.
You might try posting your question in the old trucks section -- folks there are more familiar with your setup.
But, I think that you need to do some general elctrical troubleshooting. It's nearly impossible to tell from your description what's going on. It's probably best to find a good wiring diagram and start ohming out connections.
But, a few thoughts
1. When you first 'moved wires around' to kill it sounds as if the ignition switch was bad or there is a shorted wire someplace. You somehow broke a connection.
2. The voltage regulator should only work to have the generator charge the battery or not. There shouldn't be any special feed to the ignition. Do your lights etc. still work??
3.If your regulator 'clicked' -- is it the old style relay regulator? Some of those had to be 'polarized' ( I think that was the term ) so that they'd work correctly. I don't think that I've ever actually done it, but I used to read about it in 'the old days'.
4. Did somebody alter the original harness to use points? I don't know when Ford went to electronic ignition, but it was probably around that period. If you've got a one of a kind deal,I wish you well.
Good Luck,
hj
You might try posting your question in the old trucks section -- folks there are more familiar with your setup.
But, I think that you need to do some general elctrical troubleshooting. It's nearly impossible to tell from your description what's going on. It's probably best to find a good wiring diagram and start ohming out connections.
But, a few thoughts
1. When you first 'moved wires around' to kill it sounds as if the ignition switch was bad or there is a shorted wire someplace. You somehow broke a connection.
2. The voltage regulator should only work to have the generator charge the battery or not. There shouldn't be any special feed to the ignition. Do your lights etc. still work??
3.If your regulator 'clicked' -- is it the old style relay regulator? Some of those had to be 'polarized' ( I think that was the term ) so that they'd work correctly. I don't think that I've ever actually done it, but I used to read about it in 'the old days'.
4. Did somebody alter the original harness to use points? I don't know when Ford went to electronic ignition, but it was probably around that period. If you've got a one of a kind deal,I wish you well.
Good Luck,
hj
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