I tried searching for a response, but wasn't able to find anything that was helpful and was hoping someone might have a easy fix to my issues.


Armed with this site and the wonderful write ups for replacing the electric window motors, I tackled both my failed windows last weekend, and other than it appears the passenger window is a little snug in its channel, they both now work great again (did I mention this site is great!).


With this small victory, I figured that as long as I had the door panel off, I would see if I could solve some of my door rattle issues. Again, with the help of this wonderful site, I quickly determined that the nylon sleeve that was supposed to be on the striker post was missing. Quick trip to the parts store, picked up a new sleeves, installed and figured I was good to go. And while it did allow the door to fully latch and eliminate the rattle, now the door mechanism appears to be stuck shut. Depressing the outside button nor lifting the interior handle seems to be unlatching the mechanism enough to allow for the door to open.


Anyone have any quick ideas as to what to try now? Was the sleeve possibly too thick and now its binding and wont release?


Thanks for any help or insight, while it is mostly just me riding in the truck, even I at some point will need to get that door open.

 

Wait for someone else to chime in here because I by no means had an actual fix. In the process of replacing my rocker panels, cab corners, and floor boards about a month ago I also noticed my striker sleave was missing and replaced the whole striker.

When I went to shut the door it was very snug compared to what it used to be, but me being the impatient person I am, slammed it anyway and got it to completely shut. After I went to open the door again and realized it was stuck shut... I got inside with the door panel already off and could see the mechanism working through the door and ended up just pulling the lever and putting my shoulder into it and it popped open again.

I did, after I got it open, end up cleaning the latching mechanism inside the door and now it works perfect.

 

Try pressing against the door from the outside and pushing the outside button to open. Someone may have previously tried to stop the door rattle by adjusting the striker bolt "in" and now it is binding. Does the door line up with the cab/body or is in "in" a little?

 

I've replaced a lot of those plastic "sleeves". Lately been finding that they are a bit oversized so as to cause binding. These are the individual bushings as found in the "help" section of most parts stores. When using the whole unit (of course costs more) things seem to work ok.
You might have to do some adjustment on the striker bolt.

 

Ford never sold the sleeve by itself, only available with the striker.

E9AZ-5422008-A (replaced EOTZ-1022008-A) .. Striker / Available from Ford.

1980/91 Econoline front doors/body side hinged doors / 1980/96 F100/350 & Bronco / 1983/90's Mustang/Capri / 1983/97 F350 Crew Cab rear doors / 1997 F250 H/D & F350.

Same front/rear doors: 1983/90's Crown Vic/Mercury Grand Marquis / 1983 Fairmont/Zephyr / 1983/86 LTD/Marquis (Fox bodied mid size) / 1987/90's Lincoln Town Car

 

Thanks everyone for all the help and suggestions, once I get home tomorrow I will see if I can get it back open. I was looking at the package of the nylon sleeves and did notice that the shorter ones do appear to be a tad bit thicker. If I can get it back open, I will trim the length of the thinner ones and give that a try.

Again, thanks for all the help and suggestions.

 

Don't force the handle up thinking it will help, it won't ... They break!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

I had the same thing happen to me with a dorman help! part. I figured it would be something cheap and easy that I could just do quickly. Two hours later...I managed to get the door open again.

My passenger door was stuck closed. All of the shaking, pulling, and pushing I was willing to do wouldn't unlatch it. I ended up taking the interior door panel off with the door closed, surprisingly without damaging the door panel.

I then reached inside the door with an allen key that fit the striker bolt. Using a box end wrench to get some leverage, I managed to loosen the striker bolt with the door closed. It was definitely tight quarters and there wasn't really a direct line of sight. After some moving and shaking, I was able to get the door open at that point. I returned the new door strikers on my next trip to the parts store and haven't tried again.

 

Some people make them from PVC pipe ...

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

I was thinking about trying that. I've read about people cutting a piece of PVC or plastic tube in half and gluing it onto the striker pin. I'm not in a big rush because I recently replaced the weatherstripping on both doors and that seems to have stopped most of the rattle.

 

You need the plastic sleeve to prevent rattling ... I suggest replacing them and adjusting the striker pin, ensure the outside diameter of the sleeve fits the latch BEFORE installing and closing the door.

If it's to large for the door lock, try sanding it down a bit keeping it round.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

https://www.npdlink.com/store/?p=cat...0000&year=1986

I do believe these are the kind that will unscrew so you don't have to cut anything in 1/2 to install.
If you're near Charlotte, there is a NPD there.

 

They are ... The sleeve will slip right on with the striker pin/bolt removed, no need to cut anything.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

First I just wanted to say what a great site this is. Once I was finially back in town tonight I tried a couple of the suggestions that were mentioned, once I pushed in on the door a little it immediately unlatched. When the door was shut solid, the outside door and body lined up really well, so I'm kind of assuming that no adjustments are really needed. I will look around and see if I can find a sleeve that more closely fits (tad bit thinner) if not I will just go ahead and order them. It kills me to order $2 worth of parts and have to pay $10 to get them here, oh well, for the rattle to be gone it would be well worth it.


Thanks again, I have a list of additional questions that I am trying to search for, but I'm sure that I will be asking additional questions soon.

 

A friend of mine just replaced the entire striker bolt [with new sleeve] with parts in the store at the local NAPA. Each door was less than $10.00.