Hi any direction on this is helpful. How do you know if you need to replace the spindle connecting rod ends(tie rod ends) on my 68? Rubber boots are intact and seem good an no verticals play when I lift up and down. To replace the ends you have to buy the 48" threaded rod on right side with the 5 1/2" rod one left side. 200.00$. Also what's a good tool separator without tearing up the boots for inspection. Pickle fork will tear them up.
Is this the right place to post? New member

 

If in doubt or unknown mileage, replace them to establish a baseline.

Tool? Use a gear puller instead of a pickle fork... apply some tension and then give the steering arm a whack with a ballpeen hammer... it should pop off. If not, spray with penetrant and let it do its work... they give it a precise and firm whack again.

 

Yup, once you get the nut off you take a nice 5# hammer and smack the spindle arm around the tie rod end it will "jar" the taper loose. Might take a few hits, but works well with minimal fuss or damage. No puller or pickle fork needed.

If they are tight and it has no steering issue then likely don't need replaced. The fact they might be 48 yrs old and wouldn't hurt to be replaced? Your call.

 

Your results may vary. I have never had any luck just by smacking the steering arm. A little tension is generally needed to break the mating surfaces.

 

A pry bar helps to apply some separation force when you smack it with a hammer.

Leave the tires on the ground, have someone in the cab slightly move the steering back and forth, not turning the wheels. While this is happening watch those joints to see if there is any slop.

 

If it aint broke don't fix it. As long as there is no play in the joints then your good. Just grease it up and drive it. If the truck sat for a while then these joints may loosen up. Just keep an eye on it. As for popping the joints loose, I have had good luck just striking the side of the ball joint or tie rod end.

 

O'reilly's loans out numerous tools, Matter of fact the other day, I went and got their tie rod non damaging separator that just fit perfect on the f250 4wd tie rods.

I just replaced the whole tie rod & steering drag link for under $150 found on ebay.
But the long 48+'' tie rod was missing the special dust boot that, I just install yesterday that was a oem one found on ebay. They are not like the common mushroom type.

I think tool easier then laying down an pounding on the spindle with the tire on, Plus it was early morning and many morning sleepers across the street and sure it would **** a few off 7:30-8:00 am pounding on the spindle to bust it loose. Plus I try to show some respect and limit noise make at off hrs.
Orich

 

How many miles is an indication, but like mentioned check for play. It sounds like they are in good shape, but... If you aren't experienced you can get a second opinion, a good shop would put it on a lift and take a look at things, an experienced mechanic for next to nothing.

The thing with bearings like that, is they have these seemingly tiny limit specs, like .005" (or whatever.) It takes a looong time for anything to happen. But keep in mind, once they DO start to wear, they wear really, REALLY quick and before you know it - clunk! clunk! now they are suddenly all the way out to 1/8". Steering components aren't anything to **** around with, generally speaking.

 

I broke down and bought a 5 piece kit from NAPA. It worked! One tie Rod bad for sure and other could use replacement. From my investigation so far looks like they sell the tie Rod as part of that long shaft which is expensive. Can't a guy just just buy a tie Rod and have it pressed into that shaft? I'm hoping so because This shaft is unique it has two holes in it for a horizontal steering shock or damper and the other hole is for a Garrison power steering assist control system. I have not seen a shaft(link) like this in any of the NPD catalogs they all have just one hole. Any input?

 

A five-piece what?

Long tie rod... If I recall correctly, that puppy the same btwn power and manual steering since the ram is only an "assist" mechanism. Yeah, you would think the steering system would use short, replaceable tie rods.... I think that's because it is a 4x4 and an obstruction wedged up against the link down low would find its weak spot.. an adjusting sleeve. I believe that is why it is long and forged as a continuous piece.

My rig was manual steering and slow speeds was hell with 35-inch tall tires. I swapped in the integral PS and links from a 78/79 Bronco. MUCH better.

 

This is what I use to separate tie rod ends with: OTC p/n 204-592. It doesn't tear the boots up. It's actually for separating ball joints on the lower control arm of a Taurus/Taurus X/Sable, Fusion/Milan/MKZ, F-150, F-Super Duty 250-550, E-Series, Expedition/Navigator, Escape/Mariner/Hybrid but, it'll pop the tie rods loose on a Bumpside/Dentside too. It ranges anywhere from $220.00 to about $300.00 brand new. I got this one off Ebay for $35.00 bucks and it didn't look like it had been used when I got it..

 

You could buy the rod only (3281 in pic), or the right tie rod end (3A130), but...

If you need the left tie rod end, you had to buy the complete spindle connecting rod assy. that came with both tie rod ends and the clamps.

C6TZ-3A130-A .. Right Tie Rod End / Obsolete ~ 18 available NOS

C6TZ-3280-B .. Spindle Connecting Rod Assy. / Obsolete ~ 10 available NOS

Applications for both: 1966/72 F100 4WD & 1973 F100 4WD without Garrison Power Assist P/S

Upper pic: 1966/72 F100 4WD / Lower pic: 1973/75 F100 4WD with Garrison Power Assist P/S.

Notice at the lower right that the 3A540 hydraulic cylinder connects to the P/S only 3280 rod.

 

O'reilly's loans one like this one that won't damage the boot

 

I just bought tie rods for my 69 4x4 cheapest price was on amazon just search the ford part # I think it was around 140 -150