1971 F-250, 360, C6. Undoing a lot of the modifications the original owner had done and now down to the last couple.

The PO had converted the heat operated choke and added a manual choke to it. All of the heat operation is still there minus the tubes to the exhaust manifold. I purchased a couple of kits from NAPA to reinstall the tubes with the plan to convert back to the heat operated system. It will not take a lot of work and I know to answer my question I first have to see if the innards for the heat choke are still inside, but I can't imagine that he removed them. He did at least plug the holes for the heat choke with vacuum caps when he converted it.

Looking for any/all opinions. As for the why, the truck was purchased for the boy as his first vehicle and also to slowly build back to original. It didn't have a manual choke originally and the one in there now would need to be replaced as it is not working well at this time.

So there lies my question: Should I keep the plan to convert this back to a heat operated or go to an electric operated one? I also had a mechanic that swore by using both (not sure I trust that guy yet)!

 

So you are looking for validation in your decision, or what?

If your goal is original, then go with the hot air choke. If you want simple and clean, go to electric. Biggest fuss that I see is if you want to remove your valve cover, you have to remove the hot air tubing.

I personally would go electric.

 

Go electric. It's more dependable.

 

Jklnhyd, yeah sorry about that post, got interrupted a couple of times and wasn't very clear.


I was looking to go original as possible, but also want dependability (soon-to-be 16 year olds first car). It seems many have not replaced the heat operated system when they broke/rusted away. I picked up a couple of the kits to remake them for $10 total in case I do want to go back that route.


HIO and Jklnhyd, that is what I wanted confirmed, sounds like electric is the way to go. I want it to be more driver friendly, but also do not think I need the manual choke at sea level in a warm climate vs. the mountain elevation the PO was at. From what I have read it is hooked up to the Stator post on the alternator so easy to install.


I have zero experience with the older Fords, although I have a couple of newer ones. We were always GM in my family but converted when I married into a Ford family. I love the 71 F250 we just bought and the boy is learning some much needed mechanical abilities by helping work on this one.

 

I have the complete heat stove style choke assembly for the side of a Holley carb if you decide to go that way. Won't fit a Ford Autolite carb.

 

If you did go with the hot air setup, you will need to rent a double flaring tool for the threaded sleeve at the carb.

 

Why not leave the manual choke?

 

Cuz there isnt an app for that

 

Wow Jklnhyd, really no app? Come on man. The actual reason is it wasn't there to begin with, it was added and done properly for routing causing play that causes a couple of issues and making the drivability better. The choke vibrates into an on position and with some learning disabilities the kid doesn't need anything to cause issues. He is being taught like I was, hands on, to do the work and he already knows how to operate it as is. But we agreed it could run better and that at a minimum is reason enough to eliminate it.

It is an Autolite 2100 and no flaring tool is necessary, although I already own one and much to your surprise I can actually work it. Again the Belkin brand kit from NAPA includes the fittings necessary to flare the aluminum line as you tighten it. Identical to what you would see in a copper line compression fitting for plumbing. Made as an all in one to replace the missing/broken lines, including the woven nylon heat shield.

My actual reason for the original post was to solicit experience on why others chose electric over the thermal operated version.

 

HIO nailed it- it works! the heated air system has too many possible problem areas. The chokes that had the heater hose next to the choke took too long to transfer the heat and activate the choke. Electric works best if you need something that is automatic for the driver. While many of us (myself included) prefer a manual choke, keep in mind what our mechanical skill levels are. A new comer to this type of engine needs to keep it simple, and pay more attention to the driving portion of the "FE experience".

 

GaryKip and Hio, I think I will be going to the electric choke and add it it when I rebuild the carb. Going with a kit from Mikes Carbs for that portion.

I really don't mind the manual choke myself. If I ever go back to it, I will cut the hole in the dash and run it like the 67-69 did. The PO put this one in on the left side A-pillar causing some kinks that has lead to play in it. I learned to drive on a 66 Chevy 3/4 ton and Farmall tractor so the skill is there. If it was a skill issue is go with the EFI throttle body.

Today was change the rear axle fluid day. Bad decision it is 108*...

 

I didn't mean to infer your skill was lacking at all. I got the idea that the truck was for the youngster. Sorry if I misunderstood that part. As for changing the rear fluid, in that temp, at least it will suck or pour out (if you're taking off the rear diff. cover), and there is some shade under there to take a nap while the oil drains.-lol

 

X2 on an electric choke...just way more dependable and repeatable. Set it on the coldest morning you have and forget it.

Let the truck sit over night, loosen the adjustment screws, have another person give the carb one pedal stroke, then they start the engine and you twist the choke until the engine runs well and lock it down. Then try it again the next morning the same way.

 

2X only I'll add to take the truck out for a test drive until the engine is fully warm. You want to drive it and make sure the choke isn't now adjusted to stay on too long or unload to quickly. If it stays on too long it will run too rich. This will cause low power and in extreme cases make the engine "load up" and start chugging. If it unloads too fast it will then run too lean. Then it will bog on acceleration and in extreme cases on cold winter mornings, back fire through the carb.

 

GaryKip, sorry for the snide remark and appreciate the suggestions. The truck is for the kid, but he will not get it til he can change oil, fluids, tires and walk me through how the motor works!

As for the axle oil, it was fairly clean and the cover still had a yellow chalk mark on it. I pulled the cover and let it drain for a couple of hours. The 105* helped, but that damn asphalt was hot under the truck! I cleaned the cover, wire wheeled it and repainted it with VHT rollbar/chassis paint when it was put back on. Filled with with NAPA 80-85w-90 oil. Felt smoother driving down the road at least!

Still haven't had time to mess with the carb or the choke. This weekend is all soccer for the daughter's comp team so no work on the truck. I did find that the guy I bought it from threw in a Walker brand rebuild kit for the carb and they seem to be of good quality and reputation. I'll keep it, but any suggestions on the electric choke?

The coldest morning lately has been 75-80*, may have to do it again when the fall/winter gets here! Thanks for the info guys on how to set the electric choke. Ill keep you posted.