My new truck V2
#16
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
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#18
No not yet. I bleed the ABS unit , not sure if there is a way to do it other than just opening it up and pressing the pedal until air is out?? I'm at a loss. I will get the codes again. maybe i need to disconnect the power fires and clear the computer???
#20
#23
#24
Yes they were pre-bent. Some adjusting is needed but 95% correct.
I pulled the rubber lines. since they connect on the top of the calipers I just left the hose slightly loose in the caliper and let the fluid bleed through the line and it filled the lines and topped off the caliper, tightened it up and the brakes feel solid. Not the best deal and I will replace the front calipers if needed. Some how I need to replace the bleeding section if and when I can get it to break loose. Tube kit was inline off of e bay. 180.00
I pulled the rubber lines. since they connect on the top of the calipers I just left the hose slightly loose in the caliper and let the fluid bleed through the line and it filled the lines and topped off the caliper, tightened it up and the brakes feel solid. Not the best deal and I will replace the front calipers if needed. Some how I need to replace the bleeding section if and when I can get it to break loose. Tube kit was inline off of e bay. 180.00
#27
Well i took the truck to a shop to try and figure out why i still have slop in the steering. I did have the drag link on backwards, so the last person had it backwards too as i copied the other one. oh well. I still don't have the code 12 fixed. I am happy with the power so far. I just jumps with a slight push of the pedal. I will be working on the AC this next weekend.
#28
For that jump off idle, you need to adjust the IVS on the pedal assembly. There are 2 sensors there, one that reads the position (TPS - Throttle Position Sensor) and one that verifies that the pedal assembly is moving (IVS - Idle Validation Switch). If the IVS is not adjusted correctly it will tell the PCM that the pedal has not moved until the switch "clicks" and the PCM looks at the TPS, which is likely calling for part throttle (which makes it "jump").
The fix is simple. Find the IVS, then carefully bend the tab on the pedal assembly until the tab just actuates the switch enough to make. You want to hear that IVS Microswitch click as soon as the pedal starts to move. Voila! No more bucky, bucky, off idle. Simple as that! --We'll take a simple solution any time we can, right?
The fix is simple. Find the IVS, then carefully bend the tab on the pedal assembly until the tab just actuates the switch enough to make. You want to hear that IVS Microswitch click as soon as the pedal starts to move. Voila! No more bucky, bucky, off idle. Simple as that! --We'll take a simple solution any time we can, right?
#29
As i figured 230.00 later and I still have sloppy steering. they tightened the box but that just made it feel herder to move. they did other needed stuff but in the end no help.. The steering wheel moves the shaft in the box just fine its like the slop is in the box just like the last one I tried. could a weak steering pump cause this? I need to check the splines on the end of the rag joint again. maybe the slop is in there but the rag joint is fine.
Should my rear tires be able to spin of I'm holding the brake? I know they cant on my other trucks. but this is a diesel. Not sure if my next step is replacing the master. Still have the ABS light on. the electrical parts I ordered do not look anything like the ones in the truck. maybe other parts I cant see?? I'm really getting tired of this..
Thank you DIY Mech. I will check that out.
Should my rear tires be able to spin of I'm holding the brake? I know they cant on my other trucks. but this is a diesel. Not sure if my next step is replacing the master. Still have the ABS light on. the electrical parts I ordered do not look anything like the ones in the truck. maybe other parts I cant see?? I'm really getting tired of this..
Thank you DIY Mech. I will check that out.
#30
Every one of these trucks I have ever driven has had some slop in the steering. I know that's not what you want to hear, but I think some of that slop is just inherent to the design of the steering system. There are a lot of moving joints in that front end, and I've never seen one that drives like a rack and pinion. Have you had someone sit in the driver seat and wiggle the wheel while you're under the truck? It could be tie rod roll, or a host of other things, but if you're at less than an inch of "slop" in the wheel, I think you may be in about as good of shape as you can expect.
Are you talking about power braking it and spinning the rear tires? With a stock motor it's iffy, in my opinion. These things don't really make much power right off the line. Now once the boost comes on, yeah, but while you're "under the turbo" on a stock motor, they can be a real dog.
The key components of the ABS system are the RABS valve (which I believe you have already replaced), the VSS (which works or you wouldn't have a working speedometer), and the ABS controller, which is a small black module, mounted behind the glove box. Hard telling what parts you may have got if you ordered for a '97. Some parts stores have a real hard time with that model year because it was the transitional year for models and the F-150 was new, but the F-250 and 350 were still the old style. I generally tell them I want parts for a '96. Have you done the "pinpoint tests for the code you're getting (code 12, if I recall correctly)?
I wish there were an easier way to show you this, but I'm afraid it's easiest if you just go to the site yourself so you can use the kinks and scroll around and see the testing procedures. So here goes:
Go to the F series Workshop Manual.
Then make your way to section 06-09A "Brake system, Anti-Lock, Rear".
Navigate to the "Symptom Chart -- Rear Brake Anti-Lock Control.
Then scroll down the page until you see the symptom chart for Code 12.
That will refer you to Pinpoint Test R (clicking the link will shortcut you to the test procedures).
From there it's more or less just a matter of stepping your way through the procedures one test at a time to isolate and correct the issue.
I know it's frustrating, and this can take some time, but it's a bit like gunsmithing in that the first issue you see is not always the cause of the problem. You often have to understand how the whole assembly is supposed to work in order to pinpoint the source of the problem. The links above are good for that. Hopefully that helps.
Are you talking about power braking it and spinning the rear tires? With a stock motor it's iffy, in my opinion. These things don't really make much power right off the line. Now once the boost comes on, yeah, but while you're "under the turbo" on a stock motor, they can be a real dog.
The key components of the ABS system are the RABS valve (which I believe you have already replaced), the VSS (which works or you wouldn't have a working speedometer), and the ABS controller, which is a small black module, mounted behind the glove box. Hard telling what parts you may have got if you ordered for a '97. Some parts stores have a real hard time with that model year because it was the transitional year for models and the F-150 was new, but the F-250 and 350 were still the old style. I generally tell them I want parts for a '96. Have you done the "pinpoint tests for the code you're getting (code 12, if I recall correctly)?
I wish there were an easier way to show you this, but I'm afraid it's easiest if you just go to the site yourself so you can use the kinks and scroll around and see the testing procedures. So here goes:
Go to the F series Workshop Manual.
Then make your way to section 06-09A "Brake system, Anti-Lock, Rear".
Navigate to the "Symptom Chart -- Rear Brake Anti-Lock Control.
Then scroll down the page until you see the symptom chart for Code 12.
That will refer you to Pinpoint Test R (clicking the link will shortcut you to the test procedures).
From there it's more or less just a matter of stepping your way through the procedures one test at a time to isolate and correct the issue.
I know it's frustrating, and this can take some time, but it's a bit like gunsmithing in that the first issue you see is not always the cause of the problem. You often have to understand how the whole assembly is supposed to work in order to pinpoint the source of the problem. The links above are good for that. Hopefully that helps.