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Will it dissolve any metal particles that are stuck in the cooler? I maintain there is NO WAY to adequately flush a cooler.
Generally, one does NOT want a metal-dissolving solution in a fluid cooler, it tends to dissolve them too
HOWEVER, it will dissolve any crud, nasties and carbon buildup that would keep such metallic debris stuck so it can be flushed out.
Plus, after 3x flush/back flush cycles plus the super clean beforehand, anything left would be caught by the filter. So after it is rebuilt, do a fluid/filter change in 500 or so miles for that last bit of security.
DONE! My parents came by to babysit for my anniversary and dad ended up helped me take it apart one last time.
Found the snap ring was missing to rest the reverse band on. One bearing was an old one I had pulled out, found the spot for the other bearing and got it all put back together. Topped off all the fluids and also changed the T-case and diff fluids.
Having the instruction manual would have been worth the money but found this guy online which helped a ton. It was the most comprehensive 4-6 hours of video series that I found.
So thrilled. Shops quoted me $2500 and up. Stage 4 rebuild kit with everything including bearings and bushings for $330. Required hard parts due to gear damage, $180. Fluids about $100. Total $610 and my time. Total savings of at least $1900.
So happy I did this myself. Not hard to do at all. I will never hesitate to rebuild an auto again. I would reccommend a large workspace, feeler gauges, an air compressor to test the clutches, most importantly some reference (manual, video) material for proper measurements and placement of parts.
DONE! My parents came by to babysit for my anniversary and dad ended up helped me take it apart one last time.
Found the snap ring was missing to rest the reverse band on. One bearing was an old one I had pulled out, found the spot for the other bearing and got it all put back together. Topped off all the fluids and also changed the T-case and diff fluids.
Having the instruction manual would have been worth the money but found this guy online which helped a ton. It was the most comprehensive 4-6 hours of video series that I found.
So thrilled. Shops quoted me $2500 and up. Stage 4 rebuild kit with everything including bearings and bushings for $330. Required hard parts due to gear damage, $180. Fluids about $100. Total $610 and my time. Total savings of at least $1900.
So happy I did this myself. Not hard to do at all. I will never hesitate to rebuild an auto again. I would reccommend a large workspace, feeler gauges, an air compressor to test the clutches, most importantly some reference (manual, video) material for proper measurements and placement of parts.
I'll check back in once I get some miles on it.
Hell yeah!! +1 for sticking it to the man, rolling up your sleeves and doing it for yourself. Go have a cold one and a big steak, you deserve it
When I get a chance, I'll be sure to scope out the videos you mentioned. My truck just hit 295k today, so better to be prepared ahead of time. Plus, I get 10% off anything on Amazon too
If you're even considering doing it, I know you can. Feels real good to have accomplished it. One of the big things like I said is a large work surface to lay everything out. Be prepared though for the videos. He is a very animated guy that talks really fast so be warned fore warned to keep up with him.
There needs to be a tail between the legs emogi cause thats how I feel right now coming back here. Got about 250 miles on it.
Left work in the first major rain so traffic was horrible. Stop and go for 45 minutes before it finally opened up. When traffic opened up I could feel the transmission shift up to second then when it should have shifted to third it just reved. When I slowed a bit it shifted to second and had engagement again. Sped back up (I think it was happening above 35-45mph, I cant remember now) and it reved again like it was in neutral. If I downshifted it would engage second or if I turned off the OD it would engage second. So I drove home almost in tears in second gear in the slow lane.
From what I have read it is likely the intermediate piston seals. Other possibilities are the OD (?) piston spring broke, or a piston in the valve body is stuck. Someone suggested the solenoid pack but from what I have read if one when out i could lose third but 4th would drop it back to second.
I plan on dropping the pan tomorrow and start looking around there. Any obvious thoughts or things to check?
From what I have read it is likely the intermediate piston seals.
The intermediate clutch is used to make the 1-2 shift. If it made the 1-2, it isn't the intermediate seals.
Originally Posted by herojeep
Other possibilities are the OD (?) piston spring broke,
Not possible. There is no OD piston in a 4R70W. There is an OD band, but it doesn't apply until fourth gear. Even if you had left it out of the trans the 2-3 shift would have worked.
Maybe the direct clutch seals. The direct clutch makes the 2-3 shift.
Originally Posted by herojeep
or a piston in the valve body is stuck.
That is possible. But usually that will cause no shift, not a shift to neutral.
Originally Posted by herojeep
Someone suggested the solenoid pack but from what I have read if one when out i could lose third but 4th would drop it back to second.
That is also possible. But usually that will cause no shift, not a shift to neutral.
10-14-2016, 08:05 PM
