another place you can try looking is on Ebay.. I found my reman 6.9 on there.. only issues i've had with it so far is the oil pan and one of the valve covers weren't correct.. the engine had the medium duty truck oil pan, and has provisions for a valve cover mounted CDR valve...
you should be able to work out the shipping arrangement with the seller.

 

First get the engine out and further examine what went wrong before u judge on the cracked block. Even if it is cracked on non exposed places to the piston or jounals, it can be welded. Welded tranny from 5 pieces on the WWII Kraus Maffei which got hit by 76mm shell and now we are casting the new Maybach 12 liter, 12 cylinder block.
Depends what u want to do with the pick up. Keep it forever, fix it right, rebuild it and enjoy the rest of your life. Of course there are other ways just to fix it teporarily but I am not help there. I am old school, fix it right, or just do not even touch it.
How much would it cost to overhaul the whole engine? I do not even know what went all bad, what is needed. Get it inspected first, decide which route you want to go, then I can get a quote from the only machine shop I trust.
Maybe it is only bent rod, maybe the engine seized of lack of lubrication, the only way to know is to disasemble and inspect it.

 

I think you can use turbo engine, as the add on turbos were available as aftermarket option, you would be fine through antique license, as it is matching period add on, I will go the same route here in Prague. Plus honestly, who the hell here knows how these things were suposed to look when new? Nobody. Why dont you register it as regular car? You have the possibility, we do not here, first it had to be registered as regular ID in Germany and then transfered here, even then it is extremely expensive, around 3-4000 US for regular registration.

 

dear Romel,

you are right with the repair, but not with the Status as a classic here in Germany, with the Classiccarplate the Truck costs me only 300€ tax and insurance.

The German TÜV-Guys knows what a Turbo is and that it is wrong on a 1985 F250 It's not my way to do something illigal and lost my Classiccarplate this would be to stupid!

I can get a used Engine around 1000$ so i must look on my Engine to see what happend and what a repair will cost.

All the Best

Torsten

 

The early banks or ATS were aftermarket options back then and you can get through the classic car licensing. It will be excused as that era add on, that is what I was told. The antique registration here costs 300 euro and then liability 30 dollars a year, you are not allowed driving it daily, use it for commercial purpose. How much is to register it in Germany as a regular car?

 

Hi Romel,

i dont know exactly, but as a Truck its not that mutch, but i can use it commercial and daily without Problems, because i have a Classicarshop ;-) The only problem is that i am new on diesel

all the best

Torsten

 

Please find out, I hate to put my truck on the antique license. Ich verstehe Deutsch, aber mein Deutsch ist sehr schlecht. Wenn Sie wollen, schreib mir PM und Ich schicke dir meine handy nummer.
BTW my friend has a collection of WWII german Panzer and halftracks, Demag, Sdkfz 251, 8 ton Kraus Maffei, 12 ton Kraus Maffei, Famo, Bussing, Hetzer, schwimmwagen, kubelwagen, kettenkrad and more.

 

It's nice to see people helping each other like this. Especially overseas no less, we have really proven we can fix any problem!

Devin

 

Torsten,

I don't understand how you can have the DNE2, but not a Turbo.
Neither were offered from the factory, both are an aftermarket add on.

Just trying to learn and understand the situation.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Dear Festus,

the overdrive is only a Gearoption, but a Turbo is tuning, and for this i need a offical Paper with a exact new Datasheat about the Powerplus and the Smogemission with the Turbo.

This dont make sense to me, to mutch expensive Paperwork (around $3000) to do it!

All the best

Torsten

 

Ah, I see said the blind man ...

EDIT
Bureaucrats like to take the fun out of everything ...

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Thought I would post some word on this ...

I just received word from the PO, Torsten H.

The fresh rebuilt IP front seal was leaking and filled the crankcase with fuel, his words were "the connecting rod on the first Cylinder is broken" ...

I have asked who the IP rebuilder was ... I'll post it here and everywhere else I can when I find out so no one else gets bit by their pumps.

Sorry, but a failed seal on a fresh rebuilt IP is completely unacceptable ... Yes, I get it, sometimes chit happens, not failed seals unless improperly installed!
Not to mention, the pump had to go on a stand, it should of been seen/noticed!

I have also asked if the motor is rebuildable.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

This sounds... wrong.
Are we sure it wasn't the low-pressure transfer pump that filled the crank case with fuel?
The reason I say so is because I've disassembled DB2 IPs before. There are three separate umbrella seals between the housing fuel and the oil exposed to the crank case(two are designed to keep fuel inside the IP, the third is designed to keep oil out of it).
There is also a weep hole after the first fuel seal, so it should have been dripping fuel onto the valley pan.

Now, if someone did decide to JB-weld the weep hole, that could definitely cause this, but I'd check first. Make sure that it really was the IP(which I've never heard of this happening on), and not the transfer pump(which I've heard cause fuel dilution fairly regularly)

 

I can only go by what the OP says!

It is possible that he was ripped off ...

He knows the lift pump is a point of concern, he was even told multiple times not to use it at all and just replace it, it's cheap insurance.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Well, you can verify if the IP was dripping from the weep hole on the underside, and/or if the weep hole seems plugged. Seems like a good step to take before publicly shaming a rebuilder who may have done nothing wrong.
On the other hand, if you do see obvious tampering, that would be good to know too.