As the title says, I got a 2006 5.4L Triton in my garage. It belongs to a buddy of mine, and my level of experience with these trucks is limited. I've searched for hours between forums and YouTube videos, I can't get a straight answer about exactly where the timing marks should be.

I removed the right head because a broken spark plug piece fell inside the cylinder.
1) New head gasket was installed.
2) New stretch bolts
3) Old timing chain, tensioner and guides were used as they were fine (and the owner didn't want to replace them). I remover ONLY THE RIGHT HAND CHAIN.
4) The phaser timing marks had "R" on the right head, and "R" on the left head at 12:00 when the right side chain was removed at TDC (at first I thought it was due to an incorrectly marked phaser being installed at factory and didn't notice the "L"?)The harmonic balancer was at TDC according to the timing cover. The crank timing mark was at 6 o'clock. The key was at 11 o'clock.

What exactly is the CORRECT position of the crank? I hear some people say crank key at 12:00, crank pulley mark at 6:00, crank key at 11:00 etc etc. Now the truck is timed wrong and will blow a bit of exhaust out the intake manifold and sputter for a second and I have to rip the whole truck apart again and re-time it.

This video says 11:00 from a Ford Tech
Also, there is a vacuum hose port on the right hand side of the throttle body attached to the intake, any idea where it goes? I can't find the hose...

 

The field I've highlighted in bold red is the correct orientation of the crank sprocket when removing/installing the timing chains.

The phasers on these 4.6/5.4 3-valve engines are identical on both cams. It's just that mark with the 'R' is used to align the two copper chain links when installing it on the passenger side cam, and the 'L' is used on the driver side cam.


I have no idea what you're talking about with regards to this. Can you possibly post a picture?

 

See the vacuum port directly to the right of the throttle body? (left in picture) Below the TPS? That hose! Where does that go to? The brake booster?


I don't understand what I'm doing wrong... I had the phasers timed correctly with "R" and "L" matched up to the dark links on the chains. The timing mark on the crank pulley is at 6:00 and the key at 11:00. If the timing is off one tooth, can that cause exhast to come out of the intake (mass air-flow sensor)? I wish I knew how to use my PC to circle the exact port I'm speaking of. Sorry...

Also, what is the correct mark to be used according to the timing cover? TDC or 0BTDC?

If I removed the right chain when the left phaser had the "R" at top, whats the effect? I cranked it over by hand and did not feel the valves touching pistons.

 

If I did not remove the left chain at all (because I only needed to remove the right chain to remove the right head) with the phaser mark "R" at 12:00... the timing for that cam theoretically has not changed, therefore I do not need to re-time it.... right?

 

So basically, when you tore it down, you didn't have the engine in the correct spot. You had it 180 deg. out. No.1 wasn't at TDC, resulting in your 'L's and 'R's being at top on the wrong sides. If you didn't rotate the engine when the pass. head was removed, you should have had the 'L' up on the that side upon reassembly (keeping it 180 out)... Now what you could have done was rotate the engine with the head off so No.1 was at TDC, and the 'L' was up on the driver's side, then rotate the other cam to the 'R' up before reinstalling the head...Personally, I use the 'key up' at 12 o'clock method.

 

Also to clarify, the harmonic balancer is not what you are shooting for at TDC. TDC is for the No.1 cylinder on compression stroke, meaning both valves are closed. You can check that by looking at the cam/valves or by loosening the spark plug to hear air pushing out.

 

Well, now I'm confused.

The diagram you posted of the crankshaft clearly shows the crank key is at 12:00 and the crank sprocket mark is at 7:00 approx.

I turned the right head camshaft over 180 degrees (so that "R" lined up) using a ratchet on the phaser. That theoretically should have gotten the timing back to normal ( or close within a tooth or two)?

Now that I've reassembled everything as of last night (Its 8:00 am her in Calgary Alberta as of this post) the engine is blowing exhaust out the intake. Or at least it smells sorta like exhaust. Is that because that right camshaft is still 180 degrees out?

 

Thanks to @EBC-150 for providing you good and accurate documentation.

I just noted, and wish to inject a caution. You state in post # 1:
"Now the truck is timed wrong and will blow a bit of exhaust out the intake manifold and sputter for a second"
clearly suggesting you have turned the engine over!
Then you post NO-NO-NO
You have GOT to start ALL OVER FROM SCRATCH and time both banks. Since the chains have 61 links, and the gears have 21 & 42 respectively - it takes 122 crankshaft revolutions before the collored chain links and the sproket marks on camshafts and crank will all align again.
Just redo the whole thing according to @EBC-150 's instructions.


//the difference between 12:00 - 7:00 oclock and 11:00 - 6:00 oclock on the crank keyway is only a few degrees. What's important is the chains to the three gear mark locations all at the same time //

 

Correction. The number 1 cylinder WAS at TDC. Keep in mind I had the head off, therefore I could physically see that the piston was at the top of its stroke.

The issue I'm having is the left head had the "R" at the top of the phaser when the engine was at TDC. The left chain was never removed. The truck ran prior to disassembly (albeit on 7 cylinders).

 

The #1 piston being "UP" is not what most people are referring to as TDC. While it might be at Top - and at Dead Center - it might be on the Exhaust Stroke depending what position the valves are in.

 

@ElectroVeeDub


I just looked up a discussion on another Forum that might assist you in determining where you are.
The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound - Page 284 - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans


BE CAREFUL that you do not get valve/piston contact moving things around.

 

Alright. I'm going to do as you suggest and tear off both chains, tensioners, guides for both sides and completely redo the job.

Keep tuned to this thread as I'll upload pics from my iPhone to make sure I'm not screwing it up.

Don't worry. I did crank the engine over by hand and there was no valve to piston contact. So I believe what may be happening is that the cam is out 180 degrees on the right head, and the exhaust valves are opening when the intake is supposed to be or vice versa. The reason why the engine sputtered when I did attempt to start it (after I confirmed there was no contact) is because the left head is correctly timed still.

Is it ok to use a ratchet on the cam phasers to align the "R" and "L" marks after the chains are off? Is there a good position to align the crankshaft so that valves do not contact the pistons during this procedure?

 

The 5.4 is an interference engine so IMO, the safest bet would be to loosen the cam journals to rotate that camshaft. I also agree with Torqued, the easiest thing would be to just remove both chains and start again (once the engine is correctly positioned).

 

Ok. I'll just loosen the bearing caps/cam journals to rotate the cams after i get the chains off and the crank key at 12:00.

I'm in my garage right now with a laptop PC to keep communicating to you guys whats going on. I'm starting to remove the valve covers as I'm posting this reply right now....

 

Left phaser before chains removed




Right phaser before chain removal




Crankshaft key at 12:00, crank sprocket timing mark at 7:00




Timing cover, valve covers, and intake off.







Alright, I'm taking the plunge! I'm going to take the chains tensioners, and guides off of both heads and redo the timing job. I'll also losen the bearing caps on the right hand side cam. I don't think I have to do the left because I never removed the chain during the removal of the right head... please lemme know if I'm mistaken.