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Help with timing 2006 5.4L Triton. Getting conflicting info!

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  #16  
Old 07-21-2016, 02:34 PM
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It looks like you've got the 'R' up on the pass side, so no need to loosen the journals. You can move the cam a fair amount back and forth to get your marks on.
 
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Old 07-21-2016, 02:38 PM
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Also, while you have it torn down, how do the seals on the tensioners look, are they blown out? Might be wise to pull the VCT solenoids and check/clean the screens while you're in there too...
 
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Old 07-21-2016, 02:41 PM
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Are the timing chains "zero tolerance" in regards to play in between each individual link? I tested the chains and I do feel a slight bit of play in the pins... the truck has 250,000kms on it approximately.

Furthermore, the paper gasket on the tensioners tore slightly. Can a small amount of RTV gasket maker be used?

The guides have noticeable wear, but no "severe grooves" or cracking.

I told my buddy here to replace everything, chains, guides, phasers, VCT solenoids... he's busy having a stroke at the moment trying to process if he needs to remortgage his house or not to pay for it all
 
  #19  
Old 07-21-2016, 02:42 PM
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Yes you are mistaken. AT a minimum you MUST insure they both are timed in coordination with each other.


And I believe it is a mistake not to replace those parts at that mileage.
 
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Old 07-21-2016, 02:47 PM
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Sounds like the components are worn and you have slop in the chain links themselves? Also paper gaskets? The tensioners should have a built in seal if they are composite.
 
  #21  
Old 07-21-2016, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by EBC-150
Also, while you have it torn down, how do the seals on the tensioners look, are they blown out? Might be wise to pull the VCT solenoids and check/clean the screens while you're in there too...
I just noticed @EBC-150 's above comment. And I agree whole heartedly. Also, I would remove the VCT Solenoid "body" on both side and flush / clean them out very well. They have fine screens inside them that are just like the screens on VCT Solenoids. Junk / trash / old varnish chunks are death to phasers. Be as clean about everything as you possibly can.
 
  #22  
Old 07-21-2016, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by EBC-150
Sounds like the components are worn and you have slop in the chain links themselves? Also paper gaskets? The tensioners should have a built in seal if they are composite.
The tensioner gaskets that mate to the cylinder head have torn slightly. They are not rubber. They are some sort of a very thin "paper-like" gasket.

Edit: upon second inspection the tensioner gasket might be some sort of thin rubber. The gasket is so hard and brittle it appears to be "paper-like"

The tensioner "pistons" seems to have ok resistance to it.
 
  #23  
Old 07-21-2016, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by F150Torqued
Yes you are mistaken. AT a minimum you MUST insure they both are timed in coordination with each other.


And I believe it is a mistake not to replace those parts at that mileage.
I totally agree with you. Those parts must be replaced regardless of whether or not they're worn.

But as a Technician yourself, you know how hard customers can fight when it comes to paying to replace parts when they think they're still good. I told him to just "put his nose to the grindstone" and pay for the new parts. But he wants me to re-use the parts. He can't afford a proper repair. So I might be forced to "MacGyver" a solution.
 
  #24  
Old 07-21-2016, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by F150Torqued
I just noticed @EBC-150 's above comment. And I agree whole heartedly. Also, I would remove the VCT Solenoid "body" on both side and flush / clean them out very well. They have fine screens inside them that are just like the screens on VCT Solenoids. Junk / trash / old varnish chunks are death to phasers. Be as clean about everything as you possibly can.
@F150Torqued, I would pull and clean those housing too.
@ElectroVeeDub, the tensioners rely on oil pressure to work properly, soooo...
 
  #25  
Old 07-21-2016, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by ElectroVeeDub
I totally agree with you. Those parts must be replaced regardless of whether or not they're worn.

But as a Technician yourself, you know how hard customers can fight when it comes to paying to replace parts when they think they're still good. I told him to just "put his nose to the grindstone" and pay for the new parts. But he wants me to re-use the parts. He can't afford a proper repair. So I might be forced to "MacGyver" a solution.
Well clean everything, re-use the phasers, and at a minimum, tell him he needs to get the Cloyes timing kit for a little over a $100, includes guides, chains tensioners, crank sprocket.
 
  #26  
Old 07-21-2016, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by EBC-150
@F150Torqued, I would pull and clean those housing too.
@ElectroVeeDub, the tensioners rely on oil pressure to work properly, soooo...

I realize that. But he doesn't want to replace the tensioners either. So I'll clean the mating surface on the heads, use a small amount of RTV gasket maker, and try to make sure theres no excess to dislodge and plug up the tensioner or fall into the oil pan below.

The thing that concerns me is the play in the chains.

I think the owner of this truck just wants it moving so he can sell it and off-load his repair bill to the next sorry SOB...
 
  #27  
Old 07-21-2016, 03:27 PM
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What's the VIN #?
 
  #28  
Old 07-21-2016, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by F150Torqued
What's the VIN #?

V.I.N. = 1FTPW14596KD60504

2006 5.4 Triton F-150 Crew/King cab 4-door 4x4
 
  #29  
Old 07-21-2016, 07:35 PM
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Thanks. I'll be sure not to buy it.
 

Last edited by F150Torqued; 07-21-2016 at 07:44 PM. Reason: ADDED "THANKS" since I can't seem to add to ANYONE's Reputation!!!!
  #30  
Old 07-21-2016, 08:16 PM
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WOOT!!

It Started!! The 2nd timing job worked!! The ticking went away after 30 seconds. The valves didn't smash into pistons. Time to button up this truck!!

I'm soooooo gonna bill this guy through the nose...
 


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