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I broke my distributor housing. Now what?!

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  #16  
Old 07-22-2016, 01:57 PM
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picture please

I respectfully ask. Please post a picture of this issue.
I am dying to see how this is stuck in place. I am not saying that it isn't, only that maybe i need to ad anti-seize to mine. For prevention.
 
  #17  
Old 07-23-2016, 02:06 PM
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Sorry I haven't been able to give an update in so long, I've been working a lot lately. I will keep working on it for now and be super careful not to break it any further. I was already planning on replacing it so it's okay that's it's broken. Just to give you guys and idea of what is left, I have about 2-3 inches of the shaft sticking up. I can't try the route of welding because I don't have a welder. I'm going to try heating it today. I need to buy penetrating oil soon. Thanks for all the information everyone.
 
  #18  
Old 07-23-2016, 02:07 PM
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I would add a picture but as far as I know you have to be a premium member to add pictures, correct?
 
  #19  
Old 07-23-2016, 02:11 PM
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No. Anyone can upload pictures as long as they have a certain number of posts under their belt. (Not very many)
 
  #20  
Old 07-23-2016, 02:14 PM
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JD Q, mine is seized in place from sitting for over 20 years. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to put anti seize on it just to be safe
 
  #21  
Old 07-23-2016, 02:15 PM
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Okay I didn't realize that until know. I'll upload a picture in just a little while. Thanks
 
  #22  
Old 07-23-2016, 02:22 PM
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  #23  
Old 07-23-2016, 03:03 PM
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First, clean all that smegma off with a shop vac/compressed air or something. I don't see how you could use any solvent/heat or even see what you're doing with all that minkey snot around. That's a fire waiting to happen if you use heat!

As others have said...heat, PB, let it sit. I've used PB, vice grips and a beater to get a stubborn distributor to move. Get the vice grips real tight, take the beater and hit it back and forth...a little at a time.
 
  #24  
Old 07-23-2016, 05:41 PM
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So I'm at the store, and they have no pb blaster. Does liquid wrench work the same? And okay will do, thanks
 
  #25  
Old 07-23-2016, 07:55 PM
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PB blaster is better keep looking or try Zep twister. PB has long been a big help with stuff like this. Not sure if its been mentioned yet but turning the motor backwards at the crank might help push it out. X2 on clean that crap out of there so that when it does pop loose it doesn't fall in the engine. You might be able to see the seam where the aluminum stops and the engine block begins and use a cold chisel to try and separate them at the seam, working your way around.
 
  #26  
Old 07-24-2016, 12:42 AM
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Oops, I already bought the liquid wrench
 
  #27  
Old 07-24-2016, 01:25 AM
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Liquid Wrench is good stuff, supposedly tested better than PB blaster, fwiw, on rusted bolts and such. I think it will work for this purpose anyway.
 
  #28  
Old 07-24-2016, 07:27 AM
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Use simple green or purple power and a stiff wire brush to clean as best as you can, let it soak by liberally spraying around the dist with the liquid wrench for a day, then clamp some big vice grips or a pipe wrench and get it wiggling back and forth.
 
  #29  
Old 07-24-2016, 01:06 PM
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Just drop the pan and beat it out from the bottom, problem solved.
 
  #30  
Old 07-26-2016, 04:35 PM
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My god that brings back memories.. Got mine out with a crowbar and a BFH
 


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