ST tires upgraded to LTs, your experiences and comments please.
#31
#32
I'm always happy to help people spend money. Very interested in your final choices since I will be making a similar upgrade.
I had a set of these on my old trailer, my brother also has a set on his trailer. Wheel Details - Discount Tire Direct
Not sure where I saw the specs, but they have a slight offset. It was within the tolerance that Dexter calls for. Not sure what pressure the 8 lug version is rated for either.
I had a set of these on my old trailer, my brother also has a set on his trailer. Wheel Details - Discount Tire Direct
Not sure where I saw the specs, but they have a slight offset. It was within the tolerance that Dexter calls for. Not sure what pressure the 8 lug version is rated for either.
#33
Tom
Check the inflation charts for the g614 or Sailun s637. I think that even if you only inflate to 80 psi, you will be around the same load capacity as your LR E tires. I think g614 at 80 lbs has a 3050 lb load capacity. I think that's about the same as load range E at max inflation.
Check the inflation charts for the g614 or Sailun s637. I think that even if you only inflate to 80 psi, you will be around the same load capacity as your LR E tires. I think g614 at 80 lbs has a 3050 lb load capacity. I think that's about the same as load range E at max inflation.
You may be correct on underinflated G614 tires at 3050# load capacity. However, Carlisle 235/85/16 LR E is rated at 3640# at 80# psi ~~ almost 600# more. Their 235/80/16 LR E is rated at 3520 at 80# psi ~~ nearly 500# more.
Radial Trail RH Trailer Tire
#34
I have a 2013 Sierra 5th wheel. 43' bunkhouse. The factory rims are aluminum 6 lug. Factory tires were MasterTrack ST 235/80R16. Running 80 psi I popped my first tire last trip. I think I was lucky that when the tread separated it wrapped around the axle instead of tearing up the trailer. One small dent that I can live with. Of course unwrapping it on the side of the highway was interesting....
So my question is how do I tell what pressure the rims will hold? I would like to go with a higher load rating but if I'm limited to 80 psi is there any point?
So my question is how do I tell what pressure the rims will hold? I would like to go with a higher load rating but if I'm limited to 80 psi is there any point?
#36
As noted, either stamped on the back side or possibly a sticker on the rim, covered by the tire as were the wheels on our last 5er. You will also need solid bolt in valve stems. Standard LTs should be fine if it's a triple axle trailer - the best are Michelin or Bridgestone ribs but be prepared for sticker shock.
#37
I finally made the changes to my trailer tire situation (and then some ) and wanted to thank everyone here for all of the great info and ideas.
I ordered 4 new 8 lug hubs that will fit on my current axle spindles. (Thanks Eric!) https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hub...866UC3-EZ.html
Those new 8 lug hubs will let me mount rims that will handle up to 110 PSI for heavier duty tires. I ordered 5 of these wheels. 16x6 in T02 Aluminum Trailer Wheel 8 Lug, 3750 lb Max Load, Free Shipping.
Since my local tire guy couldn't get the Sailun S637s through any of the 7 wholesale distributors he works with (they aren't stocked in the Mid-Atlantic currently) I had to source them from Trailer Tires and Wheels in Ohio, same place I had bought the new wheels from earlier. All 5 tires have build dates from Nov '16.
Since I'm going to be making these upgrades to the hubs/wheels/tires I figured I might as well keep going and upgrade to heavier shackles and wet bolts with bronze bushings with this MorRyde kit.
I'm contemplating building a shock kit for the TT also, still looking around at existing setups to copy.
I was fortunate that our TT had 6" between the tires and just enough space over them to fit the slightly taller Sailuns (ST 235/80R16 = 30.8" vs ST225/75R15 = 28.3" stockers) without any contact to the TT body. We just returned from a 1660 mile tow trip with no issues and our X chocks still fit between the tires and work correctly.
The original tires and wheels.
The new stuff.
The new heavy duty shackles and wet bolts with a stock shackle for comparison.
The new bronze bushings vs the original plastic bushings.
And my lovely Bride learned how to pack bearings!
I ordered 4 new 8 lug hubs that will fit on my current axle spindles. (Thanks Eric!) https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hub...866UC3-EZ.html
Those new 8 lug hubs will let me mount rims that will handle up to 110 PSI for heavier duty tires. I ordered 5 of these wheels. 16x6 in T02 Aluminum Trailer Wheel 8 Lug, 3750 lb Max Load, Free Shipping.
Since my local tire guy couldn't get the Sailun S637s through any of the 7 wholesale distributors he works with (they aren't stocked in the Mid-Atlantic currently) I had to source them from Trailer Tires and Wheels in Ohio, same place I had bought the new wheels from earlier. All 5 tires have build dates from Nov '16.
Since I'm going to be making these upgrades to the hubs/wheels/tires I figured I might as well keep going and upgrade to heavier shackles and wet bolts with bronze bushings with this MorRyde kit.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=AHSEAWK2CKAVE">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=AHSEAWK2CKAVE" /> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=AHSEAWK2CKAVE">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=AHSEAWK2CKAVE
I'm contemplating building a shock kit for the TT also, still looking around at existing setups to copy.
I was fortunate that our TT had 6" between the tires and just enough space over them to fit the slightly taller Sailuns (ST 235/80R16 = 30.8" vs ST225/75R15 = 28.3" stockers) without any contact to the TT body. We just returned from a 1660 mile tow trip with no issues and our X chocks still fit between the tires and work correctly.
The original tires and wheels.
The new stuff.
The new heavy duty shackles and wet bolts with a stock shackle for comparison.
The new bronze bushings vs the original plastic bushings.
And my lovely Bride learned how to pack bearings!
#38
Like that shackle kit, I think you just cost me 90 bucks! I guess that's only fair since I helped you spend a bit more yourself.
Can't see in the pic, but I assume what looks like a missing lug nut is a locking nut?
Nice choice on the wheels, very close to original. Hopefully this will give you some worry free miles, a first class upgrade!
Can't see in the pic, but I assume what looks like a missing lug nut is a locking nut?
Nice choice on the wheels, very close to original. Hopefully this will give you some worry free miles, a first class upgrade!
#39
Looks like you did it the right way.
Instead of a shock kit (Lippert or Dexter) why not look into one of the bolt on MORryde kits. Our 5er has the CRE3000 but there is one a bit higher in capacity, SRE4000 that I'm 'lusting' after for our 5er. http://www.morryde.com/products/88-s...2F4-suspension
Instead of a shock kit (Lippert or Dexter) why not look into one of the bolt on MORryde kits. Our 5er has the CRE3000 but there is one a bit higher in capacity, SRE4000 that I'm 'lusting' after for our 5er. http://www.morryde.com/products/88-s...2F4-suspension
#40
Like that shackle kit, I think you just cost me 90 bucks! I guess that's only fair since I helped you spend a bit more yourself.
Can't see in the pic, but I assume what looks like a missing lug nut is a locking nut?
Nice choice on the wheels, very close to original. Hopefully this will give you some worry free miles, a first class upgrade!
Can't see in the pic, but I assume what looks like a missing lug nut is a locking nut?
Nice choice on the wheels, very close to original. Hopefully this will give you some worry free miles, a first class upgrade!
Yeah, you did cost me more Eric, but it was well worth the upgrade, we can now call it even!
The "missing" lug nuts are actually there but they are the standard open ended nuts, not the fancy stainless capped ones like the rest. That was an oops on my part, never gave any thought to increasing the number of lugs vs how many fancy nuts I had. 8 New nuts have been bought and installed since those pics, so it looks finished now.
#41
Looks like you did it the right way.
Instead of a shock kit (Lippert or Dexter) why not look into one of the bolt on MORryde kits. Our 5er has the CRE3000 but there is one a bit higher in capacity, SRE4000 that I'm 'lusting' after for our 5er. SRE4000 Suspension System - MORryde Products
Instead of a shock kit (Lippert or Dexter) why not look into one of the bolt on MORryde kits. Our 5er has the CRE3000 but there is one a bit higher in capacity, SRE4000 that I'm 'lusting' after for our 5er. SRE4000 Suspension System - MORryde Products
Thanks!
We have the CRE3000 on the TT currently, I have plenty of other projects that aren't getting done so the shocks may be a while before they make it to the top of the list.
#42
#43
I'm an overgreaser, admitting the problem is the first step to recovery.
In my defense, with the fresh installation and it being the initial grease application into the wet bolts/bushings I did go a little extra just to ensure that enough grease made it's way into the joints. I think I got them pretty well lubed.
#44
#45
Stewart
PS - Great job! I'm sure you have more pics of the removal and installation of the upgraded hubs and shackles, yes?