Any Creative Ideas for LEGALLY Disposing of Old Diesel Fuel...
#31
It is the unknown that bothers me. I would drop the tank at least to inspect its insides to make sure that there are no surprises inside. That will give you the opportunity to clip the ends of the filler tube and breather tube and inspect the pickup screen. The plastic on the pickup has been known to crack. An air filter mask would be more than enough to filter that fuel. There are different types of Bio-fuel. One is sold at the pumps and wont jell or separate. But it isn't cheap. The discoloration of your fuel could be from an additive I guess. Go on "youtube" to research the engine and fuel tank modifications mentioned.
#33
I believe you are in a situation of needing peace of mind.
For your peace of mind, here is my suggestion.
Drain as much fuel out as you can, then fill the tank with fresh fuel.
Drive it as a DD for about a month, then begin pouring about a gallon of the old fuel back into the tank before each fill-up (this will keep it diluted).
Within 30 fill-ups, the old fuel will be gone (consumed).
However, if it were me, and I am a gutsy rascal (read my signature ).
I would install a new fuel filter now and drive it until the weather begins to cool, then change the fuel filter again and place the truck on scheduled maintenance going forward.
For your peace of mind, here is my suggestion.
Drain as much fuel out as you can, then fill the tank with fresh fuel.
Drive it as a DD for about a month, then begin pouring about a gallon of the old fuel back into the tank before each fill-up (this will keep it diluted).
Within 30 fill-ups, the old fuel will be gone (consumed).
However, if it were me, and I am a gutsy rascal (read my signature ).
I would install a new fuel filter now and drive it until the weather begins to cool, then change the fuel filter again and place the truck on scheduled maintenance going forward.
#34
#35
Adding a biocide, can even make things worse. I didn't know that.
http://criticalfueltech.com/faq.html
#36
Do you know anyone in construction that may have a kerosene/diesel burner that's used to speed Sheetrock mud/paint drying time? We use one at work in the winter time since neither want to dry that fast. Those burners don't care what the quality of fuel is that there using. Or anyone that may have an old tractor that runs on diesel? Just some ideas.
#37
This afternoon I had a few minutes so I siphoned 20 gallons of fuel out of the tank. I took a few samples and it looked nice and clear through all 20 gallons. Think I'm going to change the filter and throw in some fresh in and start it up. This stuff is clean enough to put back in and use.
#38
A dead giveaway if it has fungus is smell. If it is contaminated it will smell like rotton eggs. No rotton egg smell, good to go!!
The samples you posted looked good to me. I'd run it.
I think it's time to start a pool.
I got money on you throwing in batteries, hitting the starter and it starting on the SECOND attempt.
There will be some weird smells and sounds but she will smooth out and the dust will burn off.
I'm getting impatient man, start that dang thing!!........after you change the oil.
The samples you posted looked good to me. I'd run it.
I think it's time to start a pool.
I got money on you throwing in batteries, hitting the starter and it starting on the SECOND attempt.
There will be some weird smells and sounds but she will smooth out and the dust will burn off.
I'm getting impatient man, start that dang thing!!........after you change the oil.
#39
#40
So my dodge 3500 just dumped the trans on me and I just topped off the tank before she let me down so I'm transferring good fuel into the F350 today. Im not going to drop the tank as after seeing the condition of what is coming out there is no need. I will replace the filter and see what happens like so many here have suggested. If the new filter clogs quickly I will drop the tank then and go through all the steps to sanitize everything. This truck is too clean to even worry about it.
#41
Be sure and allow a few minutes for the fuel bowl to completely fill after you install the new filter, bevel seal, and cap.
This is done by simply turning the key on Run, so that power goes to the fuel pump, and waiting for a minute or two until you hear all the whirring and buzzing stop.
Do this with good batteries , as three loads will be drawn simultaneously during this recommended prolonged Key On, Engine Off:
1. Glow plugs will turn on, drawing tons of current, running for 120 seconds (even though the Wait to Start light turns off much sooner than the glow plugs actually turn off.)
2. Vacuum pump will turn on, pumping until the vacuum reservoir reaches a pre set state of vacuum to operate the HVAC and hubs. That will be the sound heard under the hood.
3. Fuel pump will turn on, which will be the sound under the driver's floorboard. You'll want to wait until this sound stops before turning the key to start, so as to fill the fuel bowl up entirely, to the point where the excess fuel pushes the regulator spring and spills fuel (and more importantly, expells the air from when you drained the bowl) back into the return lines to the tank. The fuel pump will stop automatically.
If you wanted to get crazy detailed, you could pull the cap to the top of the high pressure oil reservoir and pour some new oil in there, but once you start it, the low pressure pump will refill the reservoir soon enough.
But I would definitely allow the key to be on for a minute or two before starting to at least get the fuel bowl refilled electrically.
This is done by simply turning the key on Run, so that power goes to the fuel pump, and waiting for a minute or two until you hear all the whirring and buzzing stop.
Do this with good batteries , as three loads will be drawn simultaneously during this recommended prolonged Key On, Engine Off:
1. Glow plugs will turn on, drawing tons of current, running for 120 seconds (even though the Wait to Start light turns off much sooner than the glow plugs actually turn off.)
2. Vacuum pump will turn on, pumping until the vacuum reservoir reaches a pre set state of vacuum to operate the HVAC and hubs. That will be the sound heard under the hood.
3. Fuel pump will turn on, which will be the sound under the driver's floorboard. You'll want to wait until this sound stops before turning the key to start, so as to fill the fuel bowl up entirely, to the point where the excess fuel pushes the regulator spring and spills fuel (and more importantly, expells the air from when you drained the bowl) back into the return lines to the tank. The fuel pump will stop automatically.
If you wanted to get crazy detailed, you could pull the cap to the top of the high pressure oil reservoir and pour some new oil in there, but once you start it, the low pressure pump will refill the reservoir soon enough.
But I would definitely allow the key to be on for a minute or two before starting to at least get the fuel bowl refilled electrically.
#42
Be sure and allow a few minutes for the fuel bowl to completely fill after you install the new filter, bevel seal, and cap.
This is done by simply turning the key on Run, so that power goes to the fuel pump, and waiting for a minute or two until you hear all the whirring and buzzing stop.
Do this with good batteries , as three loads will be drawn simultaneously during this recommended prolonged Key On, Engine Off:
1. Glow plugs will turn on, drawing tons of current, running for 120 seconds (even though the Wait to Start light turns off much sooner than the glow plugs actually turn off.)
2. Vacuum pump will turn on, pumping until the vacuum reservoir reaches a pre set state of vacuum to operate the HVAC and hubs. That will be the sound heard under the hood.
3. Fuel pump will turn on, which will be the sound under the driver's floorboard. You'll want to wait until this sound stops before turning the key to start, so as to fill the fuel bowl up entirely, to the point where the excess fuel pushes the regulator spring and spills fuel (and more importantly, expells the air from when you drained the bowl) back into the return lines to the tank. The fuel pump will stop automatically.
If you wanted to get crazy detailed, you could pull the cap to the top of the high pressure oil reservoir and pour some new oil in there, but once you start it, the low pressure pump will refill the reservoir soon enough.
But I would definitely allow the key to be on for a minute or two before starting to at least get the fuel bowl refilled electrically.
This is done by simply turning the key on Run, so that power goes to the fuel pump, and waiting for a minute or two until you hear all the whirring and buzzing stop.
Do this with good batteries , as three loads will be drawn simultaneously during this recommended prolonged Key On, Engine Off:
1. Glow plugs will turn on, drawing tons of current, running for 120 seconds (even though the Wait to Start light turns off much sooner than the glow plugs actually turn off.)
2. Vacuum pump will turn on, pumping until the vacuum reservoir reaches a pre set state of vacuum to operate the HVAC and hubs. That will be the sound heard under the hood.
3. Fuel pump will turn on, which will be the sound under the driver's floorboard. You'll want to wait until this sound stops before turning the key to start, so as to fill the fuel bowl up entirely, to the point where the excess fuel pushes the regulator spring and spills fuel (and more importantly, expells the air from when you drained the bowl) back into the return lines to the tank. The fuel pump will stop automatically.
If you wanted to get crazy detailed, you could pull the cap to the top of the high pressure oil reservoir and pour some new oil in there, but once you start it, the low pressure pump will refill the reservoir soon enough.
But I would definitely allow the key to be on for a minute or two before starting to at least get the fuel bowl refilled electrically.
#45