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long cold crank no start hot

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  #16  
Old 07-19-2016, 04:16 PM
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Hydraulics shops should have the -5 ORB to 1/8" NPTF adapter for the oil gallery plug for a couple bucks. The test fitting that replaces the IPR is available from Accurate Diesel for ~$90, which seems high to me but I guess when you need it, you need it.
 
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Old 07-19-2016, 04:34 PM
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Got this from another thread....


Alternative Hose Inc..714-414-0904 Just explain what you need. They're familiar and inexpensive.
 
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Old 07-20-2016, 11:36 AM
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ran some more tests last night after getting the truck to start. the test I ran is the one where is wants you to press the brake peddle and turn the wheel. when the test finished it came back with 5 or 6 codes. all codes said short to ground. with out even thinking I shut the truck off and closed out of my scan program with out saving the live stream or the test results. so now I will have to run the test again tonight for the codes. also going to start looking at all my wires under the hood.
 
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Old 07-20-2016, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by sandflea1
ran some more tests last night after getting the truck to start. the test I ran is the one where is wants you to press the brake peddle and turn the wheel. when the test finished it came back with 5 or 6 codes. all codes said short to ground. with out even thinking I shut the truck off and closed out of my scan program with out saving the live stream or the test results. so now I will have to run the test again tonight for the codes. also going to start looking at all my wires under the hood.

If codes presented on the tool they should be stored in the PCM so long as you don't disconnect the batteries.
 
  #20  
Old 07-20-2016, 11:44 PM
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checked volts tonight. the vpwr volt at cranking is 13.75. the vref volt is at 5.03 while cranking. hot and cold. one thing I did check before I tried to start the truck tonight was the oil reservoir and it was way low. so I'm guessing a major leak or bad hpop, waiting on the stuff to do the air test.
 
  #21  
Old 07-21-2016, 06:57 AM
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If you can monitor these 2 items,monitor IPR% along with ICP, and do a run with it warmed up and watch what the ICP and IPR% do. Get the truck going about 40mph or so, and just roll into the throttle and hold it there till about 70 or a little better. As the IPR% goes up, so should the ICP. If the ICP starts dropping while the IPR continues to climb, you're losing oil somewhere. Most likely through injector o-rings. Who did the injectors for you, and what about the o-rings. I know it's been some time back, but there was a bunch of o-rings that were being used on some of the aftermarket injectors that did not hold up.

On edit: Is your truck tuned? And does it have factory injectors? The early 99's have a smaller HPOP, that's why I ask.
 
  #22  
Old 07-21-2016, 11:06 AM
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the truck is tuned. running a super chip programmer. been in there since I bought the truck in 2006. I got the injectors from Pensacola fuel injection and stayed with stock application. I have not ran the test while driving the truck. I will do that tonight.
 
  #23  
Old 07-21-2016, 11:15 AM
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High pressure oil leak plain and simple. The higher viscosity of the oil when cold semi-masks the issue and once the engine starts there is sufficient flow from the high pressure oil pump to maintain operation until the engine is shut off.

I bet Pensacola doesn't use genuine Ford/International o-rings on their injectors.....makes them cheaper to eBay shoppers.
 
  #24  
Old 07-21-2016, 11:45 AM
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here is something that I just thought of. about the time this started to happen I replaced the IPR and truck worked great. I had a leak at the HPOP. one of the fittings for the oil like going to the passenger side head. I replaced the fitting at the pump with a new one. mine is the style with the check valve in it. when I screwed the fitting in the pump I am not sure if the spring in there seated properly. could that spring be causing this hole problem?
 
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Old 07-21-2016, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by sandflea1
I got the injectors from Pensacola fuel injection . . .
That might be your whole problem.
 
  #26  
Old 07-21-2016, 04:09 PM
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yea have not been happy with them. holly S@#$. that just totally reminded me of something. when I got the injectors from them I had 2 bad ones right from the start. they replaced one and told me to pound sand on the other one. so I replaced it with a used one from a buddy that owns a wrecking yard. and I did not put new O-rings on it. that injector happens to be on the driver side and that is the side I have not pulled the valve cover to check for leaks yet. I have tomorrow off so I will be tear that valve cover off to check it.
 
  #27  
Old 07-21-2016, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by sandflea1
yea have not been happy with them. holly S@#$. that just totally reminded me of something. when I got the injectors from them I had 2 bad ones right from the start. they replaced one and told me to pound sand on the other one. so I replaced it with a used one from a buddy that owns a wrecking yard. and I did not put new O-rings on it. that injector happens to be on the driver side and that is the side I have not pulled the valve cover to check for leaks yet. I have tomorrow off so I will be tear that valve cover off to check it.
There's a few folks on here that we recommend for rebuilt or new injectors. And you will not get that kind of attitude from any of them. I hate to hear when a company won't stand behind their products.

And that drivers side valve cover may be hiding your problem!
 
  #28  
Old 07-21-2016, 05:04 PM
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I hope that is where the problem is. I ordered a complete set of O-rings from riffraff that will be here tomorrow just incase that's the problem.
 
  #29  
Old 07-21-2016, 09:37 PM
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Get that valve cover off and Cody test that side.
 
  #30  
Old 07-22-2016, 07:20 AM
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No new O-rings on a stick swap? We're all but done with troubleshooting.

My own experience with Full Force Diesel has demonstrated that they go to the firewall to support their product.
 


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