I want you to go into manage PIDs and edit the Transmission Fluid Temp (Method 2) and go down to the ODB Header and change it from Auto, or whatever it is to TCM and then go look at your Trans Temp. It will be lower, right now it is reading Coolant Temp. Guess they never fixed that.

I gotta' run, be back on when I can...

On Edit, and then make sure that is the trans temp you pick for your gauge...

 

Here's what popped up when I went to the test.

 

Ok I updated transmission fluid method 2 and it's at 162.2F

 

The ECT aka coolant looks a bit low still at 188ºF. Might be time for a new T-stat. Myself would not use
one from Motorcraft. They fail on a regular basis. One for International is the way I would go. Mine has
been holding up for the last 2+ years and I see 198ºF. The other option is one from Mish. But I think for
4ºF more the price is too high.

BTW the next time if there is one. Have the mechanic tell you what strategy you truck has. It's a good
bit of info to have so that if you do Have/Want to do some tuning.



Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder

 

Thanks we will add that to the short list. It did get up to 190-196 during initial test.

So what do all those fault codes mean? I will look up codes, but wouldn't my CEL be on, if all those things had issues?

 

If you post a list I can look them up. I have the 2005 PC/ED on disk
and can also post the pinpoint testing for things.



Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder

 

I posted them on page 7.

 

This ?





What you call page 7 I call page 3. It has to do with how you have set the number of posts to show per page. Will post back what I find.


BTW don't mind Earl he is getting his back rubbed. One very happy squirrel. BTW he is a loving Squirrel.


Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder

 

Ok so I cleared the fault codes And re ran them and it said 0 fault codes. So does that mean those are old codes? I read that somewhere in the forum, that you need to clear before reading them to begin with, but I'm not sure if that is accurate.

At cold crank:
Volts (CM) : 11.5
Volts(AD) : 10.8

What does that mean? Thanks.

 

Oh sorry about the page mix up. Yes that is what I meant. That was what it read before I cleared it. Now when I run it, it says 0. Thanks.

 

What are the FICM numbers. And realize when we talk about cold start we are talking the motor hasn't been run in a good LONG while, I go with 24 hours being a good cold soak, others will say 12 will do...

We may do a bit of data capture just to see what is going on at a real cold start. But let's just start with what your FICM numbers are, have you found those yet?

Really things are looking pretty good so far, my ECT will hover under 190 for a bit until everything really gets all happy (and warm) then it'll sit around 190.4 unless demand is placed on the system.

Good job at clearing the codes, but let us not go off on that side just yet -- wanna' see what all is going on under the hood 1st

 

But not having them come back is better than other things…



Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder

 

Ok so it was only 5hrs sorry. Will check again tomorrow. It will be hard to do a full 24hr Though.

The ficm is not green on the gauges? I checked and they are still offline.

So with the codes does that mean I just reset them or were they old?

Good to know things are going in the right direction though.

 

That's odd. Did you try adding a gauge for one even though it isn't green? You had mentioned something about it being "slow", maybe we should go into settings and look at your adapter settings and see if there is something we can fix there. Which adapter did you end up getting?

In OBD2 Adapter Settings:
make sure Faster Communication is not checked. You can try checking the Disable ELM327 auto timing. Let's see if any of that helps. I had a flaky adapter the first one I got like Sean had too...

 

So I got it working but haven't a chance to test as things have been very busy as we have a lot going on with family this week. Will update when I test it. Does it need to run the same speed same amount of time before checking?