Ray and CBeav

The holly gov is actually disconnected. There should be two vacuum hoses that go to the distributor. I found all this info in my shop manual. Some time along the line they disconnected to gov, from the carb for engine speed.

The other gov underneath was from the pump control. It was hydraulically operated with a master cyl type of of setup at the pump panel. This two is not hooked up. I did double check the throttle plates on that unit and they are in a locked open position.

I pulled the carb off this morning and checked a mesh filter in the input . It was clear. My thoughts are still leaning to the float or such.

My thoughts are to pull the top float cover off and look around. I want to have a gasket ready in case the old one gets damaged. So far, I can only find complete kits. which are very expensive.
Information found starting on pg 95 of Shop manual 54-54 Ford

 

Ray, Those cables you saw were actually the Choke and Throttle from the dash. . In addition to the governor from the pump panel, There was a control cable for the actual carb linkage. It was a twist **** with a emergency push to quickly shut engine down. Because I am not using the pump, I took some stuff off during restoration,

 

Sounds like you have plenty of fuel to the carburetor. Look for a restriction at the float valve or sticking float valve. Be absolutely certain none of the governor mechanism is preventing the engine to develop power. Interesting one.

 

Ray, Not knowing an awful lot about Carbs, How would one go about that. I was thinking of pulling the top cover off, or possibly the top half of the carb. Not sure what I would be looking for. If I p[ull the top cover off, can I reuse the gasket. Having trouble locating just the gasket.

Thanks for the assist.

 

If you can get the problem to present itself again, shut the engine down. Then take off the top of the carb. If the bowl is full of fuel then you know the fuel is getting in there. If it's empty then the problem is somewhere between the pump (that you checked ) and the inlet to the carb - most probably the needle valve or float assembly. That should be easy to check and may just be a case of taking it apart and cleaning it. You can put the fuel inlet to your mouth and blow through whilst opening and closing the float assembly will tell you if its working ok.


If the bowl was full of fuel then you'd want to take out the jets and give them a clean and blow through with compressed air. Stale fuel can gum everything up quite quickly.

I have had a similar problem to the one you describe. It turned out to be a crack in a rubber fuel hose that was intermittently causing pressure loss. It had to get worse before I found it.


Good luck

 

Justboy, thanks for the info. Presently, I took the carb off to check the inlet mesh. It was clean. I will put it pack and see if I can blow thru it at inlet.
If I pull the top of carp off, will I be able to reuse gasket.

 

Should be able to reuse it ok. Just be gentle lifting in case it sticks anywhere and then peel it gently if it does.

 

I had a similar issue and found a piece of teflon tape had broken loose and was stuck in the jet inlet inside the bowl!! Thats why I dont use teflon tape on my gas line fittings any more!!!

 

^^^ That brings up a good point. I've often seen many peeps use teflon tape and sealers where they shouldn't. The only time thread tape or sealer is required is on pipe thread fittings. Where there are flares or o-rings employed no additional sealing is required and can actually cause issues. If it is a flare fitting and leaking there's a problem with the flare or seat, not the threads. I understand people are trying to the best job possible when they do this but sometimes it actually does the opposite.

Another possibility is internal deterioration/damage to any hose lining(s) causing an intermittent obstruction to flow. If your hoses are old or may have been damaged by crimping with pliers, vise-grips, etc. it's a distinct possibility. My experience has been you have a 50-50 chance of missing a damaged lining by blowing through. If it's old or otherwise suspect just replace it/them.

 

DoBenator and CBeav,, Thanks for the input. I'll give you an update. Took the top of carb off. There was a small amount to sediment of the bowl bottom. Pulled the bowl vents out which looked plugged. Cleaned everything up and reassembled. Still having a problem.. I am going to try and shoot a video and post it maybe today or Monday. Will be away this weekend. This is a good challenge and I appreciate the help. The video will help describe what is going on. The condition of the carb looks clean, how ever, there might be something in the bottom end.

 

Hi gang. Found a great person to clean my carb. He took it apart and found several issues with it. Put it back on last night and truck has all kind of power. Have not taken it out yet. The curb side idle is to high at present and I want to check timing and readjust. Will give an update when complete

 

Great that you found someone who knew his way around carburetors and that he found "issues". Also great that you reported back that the problems have been resolved. Thank you. Inquiring minds always like to know what issues were found such as dirt, damage, corrosion, wrong assembly, whatever.

 

He found a combination of things. The float was out of adj. The input needle valve was not working properly. The Accelerator pump diaphragm was a little stiff. All little stuff added up. After retest, I took it back and he re-adjusted the throttle plates. Re-installed today and truck has never run better. My goal is try o keep that crappy methanol gas out of it. There are two places near here that sell gas without it. Thanks for any assist.