Well, I think my clutch is falling apart. I am hearing an intermittent nasty noise coming from somewhere in the bell housing/oil pan area. It comes and goes, but seems to be more frequent lately. It sounds like a dryer that somebody threw a pair of sneakers and some rocks in; with a metallic clunking noise of something being "churned" around. As I said, sounds almost exactly like the dryer thing.

The clutch does not seem to be slipping, but I do occasionally have difficulty getting it into gear at a stop. I'm guessing that the clutch disc has thrown a hub spring, and its rattling around in the bell housing. Thoughts?

Assuming I need a clutch; which I think I do, I need some help selecting one. Money is very much an issue. I have no history on the clutch or flywheel, so I will assume that I need a new flywheel to match whatever clutch I get.
I can't get a stock replacement, due to the injectors/chip/etc.... I would estimate I am making about 350hp/700ft-lbs. I don't tow currently, but I may pull a car trailer in the future. I DO haul heavy loads in the bed (4,000lbs) on a regular basis. I also drive/shift aggressively, as well as shifting quickly. While I spend a decent amount of time on the highway, I also do a lot of stop and go stuck in traffic driving; so smooth engagement is important. So, no ceramic/ceramic in/out type clutches.

I do NOT want a South Bend. I don't want a super soft pedal. Also, the whole pedal-sticking-to-the-floor thing they mention is unacceptable. Personally, I think they should be ashamed of themselves for putting out a product with such an obvious unsafe design/engineering flaw, and then try to explain it away as "normal". Nope. They need to go back to the drawing board and fix that. As I said, it constitutes a serious safety hazard.

From the research I have been doing, that really leaves only one reasonably priced option:
Valair Part# MU70241-01 which is an organic disc, with a 3400# pressure plate, supposedly rated at 400hp/900ft-lbs. However, I dug up a number of threads, from several forums, which indicate that the rating is bogus and will not hold up to a modified truck (slips). Now, granted, all such threads were from around 2008-2010. I was unable to locate any recent such threads. So, maybe they improved/upgraded the design since then? Does anybody have any recent experience with this clutch?

Anybody have any other clutches to suggest, for less then $700 total, including new flywheel?

 

Have you investigated LUK clutches?

 

Just what I saw listed on RockAuto, and they are all listed as stock replacement. I need to look into that a bit more.

Do you agree with my diagnoses, from what I described?

Also, does anybody know where to get the pilot bearing/input shaft repair kit, like DieselSite has, but for less $? Part#?

 

Ok, well it looks like Luke part# 07-172 is a supposed hd upgrade, but all I can really find is that it claims to be a "Luk design upgrade" and has a cerametallic friction disc.; but no "real" info, including on Luk's website. It would be nice to know what power levels and usages its rated for, etc...

 

Just did my clutch yesterday. Installed an AC Delco kit from rock auto fit 130.00.
. Mine, for a VERY long time, had a sound similar to yours. When removal of trans, the pilot bearing and throw out bearing literally feel into my hand. The input shaft sleeve was destroyed, so cut it with cutoff wherl. Installed new everything and she Is a wet dream of grabbing gears...very satisfied....btw, FITZALL from eBay is the kit you want

 

Thanks for he tip on the FitzAll.
When you took the old clutch out, how was the disc? Did you have any broken/missing springs?

Did the transmission input bearing get damaged from running that long with a bad pilot bearing?

 

The valair clutch I installed 100k ago, was completely glazed, chipped and done. The input bearing(fitzall bearing) was destroyed. The Napa 2yr old throw out bearing was exploded. Clips that surround it, holding it T the fork, were dancing around inside the bell housing.
The flywheel however seemed perfectly smooth as when I had it resurfaced 4yrs ago.

 

I've put in two LUK clutches on mine. Both were VERY light pedal, but you do get used to them quickly.

 

What are the specific part# clutches you each used, as both manufacturers have sevral different clutches for this application.

I'm leaning towards the LUK cerametallic kit. I am going too call them soon and ask about it.

 

I called LUK. They were not very helpful. Although they did warn me that the 07-172 cerametallic disc would be have very harsh engagement, and would not be fun to drive in traffic.

I called Dial-a-Clutch and they are recommending their kit based on the same LUK kit above. However, they modify the friction disc, by removing the ceramic lining from one side and replacing it with an organic lining, which makes for smooth engagement and better driveability. Unfortunately, its very expensive; over $1,000. That is over my budget. So, I'm waiting to hear back from them, to see if they will modify a disc I send them, as I can get the Luk kit cheap.

 

Stock power valair kit, the first go around. AC Delco stock per this time. This pedal is VERY soft. Hell of a time getn used to it, haha

 

So I installed a LUK about 20k miles ago. I tow 7,000lbs regularly. The install was good. The pedal feel is adequate. It is rather grabby, though. Unless someone comes along with a clutch/flywheel set that's superior for equal $$, I will likely install another LUK.

 

Again guys, if you are going to say what you installed and how its working, then include a part#. Without a part# and performace level, just the name of the manufacturer doesn't mean much.

 

Ac Delco 381433
valair was rated stock. Bought off ebay

 

I have no idea what part number is is. The street replacement, organic type is what I used.