LOL... I will keep and eye on the mirrors. Thanks for the heads up. I think?

 

Oh Yeah, Keep takin a peek down the engine valley every once in a while.....Get a OBDII adaptor and buy Torque Pro or Forscan and you should be money. We'll leave the lights on......

 

So it begins!


Wow you called that one! I just spotted a trickle of anti freeze coming out from under the truck. It is really hard to see where it is coming from. It looks to be coming from the gasket between the water pump and the block. But it is really hard to see where it is coming from. I will have to get out the mirrors tomorrow during day light and see if it is a gasket or the pump it's self? But it run great!

 

They don't call me the Heretic for nothing.....You might check the hoses, you also have a lower water outlet pipe that could leak.....Fear not, they are not hard to fix or expensive. Hell, it could be a loose hose clamp for that matter....

 

There's a weep hole in the water pump. That is most likely the location of the leak. But, it might be leaking above the pump, so be sure to check everything! Should it need a water pump, I advise getting a new thermostat housing and thermostat. Those housings seem to be a one time use item. At least that's been my experience with them.

 

Thank. After church today I try to get by the shop and check it out a bit closer. I did notice it stopped leaking last night and it appears that the reservoir is about half full. Could be a hose? But appears to leak under pressure? I will post my findings as soon as I have some definitive answers. Thanks for the replies... Appreciated!

 

Oh, and you will find the reservoir never wants to stay between the marks where it's "suppose to". Typically, every 7.3 I own, and have owned, stays about an inch below the low level line. We were actually discussing this very topic on another thread very recently! No one has luck keeping the coolant between the marks!

 

Good to know thanks. I will be sure not to start a new thread on that... Lol

 

A few hours changing out the water pump with a new unit, a new radiator just because, and a new AC charge and I think I'm good to go mechanically. Just did the title transfer, so a smog inspection and $380.00 and I can start driving it. Thanks again for all the help and direction guys.

 

Only took two cans of coolant...

 

Subscribed. Nice truck!!!

 

So I finally decide I need to use the truck to pull the boat. I do the AAA thing and pony up the $345.00 for registration and a one day moving permit to get it smog tested. All went well until the smog machine says it's not ready to receive the info from the truck. Only 1 of two "somethings" loaded before it able to transfer the info. I was told to drive it 50 to 100 miles and take it back. So being the day was shot anyway I drove 97 miles yesterday and it still only reset one of the two "somethings" required to play nicely with the computer. I was told to drive another 100 miles and return again in hopes it completes both modes.

I have a good friend who loaned me a plug in monitor so I can check once in a while as I drive it around this weekend. After a quick trip back to AAA I now have til Nov to get it straighted out.

So the question is is this guy shooting straight with me or am I being strokes? Any tips or ideas on speeding up the process? I love driving the truck but burning fuel just for this seems silly. Another thought is half the fuel is old so would that be an issue ? Thanks for the help guys good or bad...

 

Was one of the 2 things a KAM (keep alive memory)error?

I am guessing it was.

I am not sure what clears the KAM error which is generated anytime the batteries are disconnected, but my memory wants to tell me it's drive cycles not mileage. I believe you can also clear it with the approiate scan tool.

Am I in the ball park with the KAM error?

 

It is no throwing any error codes. I just checked the keep alive memory fuse and it is good.

 

Metal Twister... still getting that thing going! Good for you!


Drive cycles are not measured or counted in miles. They are measured in sequences of events. You do not have to pile on hundreds of miles nor spend gallons of fuel to achieve the required number of drive cycles to appease the smog inspection computer. Below, however, is what you might need to do:


1996-04 7.3L DIESEL (Your 2001 falls within this group)

Description

The primary function of the drive cycle procedure is to clear DTC P1000 and to satisfy specifications for SAE J1979. Each OBD-II monitor must run during drive cycle. If drive cycle has been completed and DTC P1000 is not cleared, repeat entire drive cycle. If a particular step is interrupted, repeat drive mode. If drive cycle is interrupted with a key-off, only drive modes that were incomplete must be run.

Performing Drive Cycle

1. Turn ignition on, but do not crank engine until WAIT TO START indicator turns off, or 10 seconds has passed (whichever is greater).

2. Start engine. Allow engine to idle with transmission in Park or Neutral for 40 seconds.

3. The following conditions must be followed to run certain OBD-II monitors that require engine to be under a load. On A/T models, select OVERDRIVE CANCEL to perform test in 3rd gear. On all models, turn on accessories (headlights, A/C compressor, blower fan, etc.). DO NOT use hazards or PTO. Select an uphill or level road. DO NOT select a downhill road. Driving downhill will unload engine and defeat test.

4. Accelerate steadily to 3rd gear (A/T) or 4th gear (M/T) and keep engine speed at 1500 RPM for 3 seconds. Accelerate steadily from 35 MPH to 65 MPH in about 15 seconds (A/T) or 11 seconds minimum (M/T).

Repeat this procedure (step 4) three (3) times while maintaining conditions set in step 3) . Before proceeding, turn all accessories off and disengage OVERDRIVE CANCEL. On A/T models, go to next step (5). On M/T models, go to step 6.

5. On A/T models, drive vehicle in 4th gear continuously for one minute. Accelerate steadily from a full stop to 4th gear and then return to a full stop. Repeat this procedure 10 times, then go to next step.

6. Before continuing, use NGS tester (or Forscan, or Torque Pro, or AutoEnginuity, or Infinity, or an independent engine oil temperature sender and gauge, or whathaveyou) and select EOT PID from PID/DATA MONITOR & RECORD menu. Ensure EOT PID value is more than 140°F (60°C). Allow engine to idle for 20 seconds in Park or Neutral. Turn ignition off. Start engine and allow engine to idle for 40 seconds in Park or Neutral. Repeat QUICK TEST in appropriate SELF-DIAGNOSTICS article (only applies if you have an NGS).

Drive cycle is complete. Yay. What joy. Now do it again, just to be sure.

7. If DTC P1000 is present after performing drive cycle, repeat step 4 maintaining a minimum MFDES PID value of 37 milligrams/stroke with engine speed at more than 1500 RPM for 11 seconds. Also, maintain a minimum MFDES of 37 milligrams/stroke with engine speed at more than 2300 RPM for at least 6 seconds. Repeat step 6. MFDES PID value must remain less than 12 milligrams/stroke for 11 seconds. (If you don't have the scan tool to monitor this, just drive it like you stole it.)